I am finally ready to start my engine; it was rebuilt 3 years ago. It has been stored with the plugs installed and in a controlled environment. I plan to manually spin the oil pump to get everything lubed.

Is there anything else that should be done prior to starting the engine?




.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci
 

Wire everything, make sure coolant is up and correct as you will be wanting the engine to run 20 + minutes.
 Distributors 180* out seem to be a nemesis but actually should never happen if you watch the valves of #1 operate with the rocker cover off. I fully prime a carb with a funnel and hose and make sure the accelerator pump squirts. You don’t want to crank the engine, you want it to start quickly and stay running. 
 I also do a quick check with the key on to see voltage at the coil before first crank. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Throttle lock to hold the revs up? Exhaust hoses (if garaged)? Carb filled?  Water-only coolant (in case of leaks/suppress break-in overheating)? Stethoscope (to detect valve gear failure before more severe damage can occur)?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Make sure you have FRESH oil with proper amount of zinc. Especially if that oil has been  in the engine 3 years To much zinc is as bad as not enough.

Duane

When I break in an engine, I put a fan in front of the radiator as an extra source of fresh air besides the items mentioned above.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Be sure you have fresh fuel in the tank.  Old fuel will gum up the valves and will not be obvious until the engine cools back down and is then restarted.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Also prefill the carburetor with fuel before attempting to start the engine.  It’s important that the engine fire up right away and not having to grind on it for any appreciable length of time to fill the carburetor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Upon checking the power to the coil: Ignition wire/12.8 v to coil is off for a split second when the key is between start and run. Both IGN and ST lugs are hot in the start position. Should I be concerned about the split second the IGN is off during the key/switch movement from start, back to the run position?

I’m a little concerned about the fuel line from the tank being dry. I wonder how many pumps it will take to get fuel to the carb and where does the air go? I will fill both bowls of the Brawler with a funnel.

I will run 5 ½ qt of conventional Valvoline 10-40 with 1 bottle of ZDDP and a WIX filter for the first 20 min and then let engine heat cycle overnight, I will drain and inspect and cut the filter open, and then fill with the same mix for the second 20 min run. After these two runs I think I will use half a bottle of ZDDP.

I will fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix, using the heater tube behind the thermostat. Is there any benefit to remove the thermostat for initial start? I’m not sure the thermostat in the engine has an air bleed hole.

I will spin the oil pump up to 2700 rpm with my drill in reverse.

I will have fans for air movement

I have extra dented valve covers. Is it practical to cut the tops off to be able to see the rockers running?

Awesome Reference: THANKS!!!
Camshaft and Lifter Failure Causes – Eaton Balancing
Fuel System Priming
Breaking in a Rebuilt Engine
Finally breaking in the cam FAQ
Should I use any additives such as ZDDP on a newly rebuilt Y-block?
coolant
Lost another cam
Break in procedure
Break in Oil
PENZOIL MOTOR OIL
prep and start




.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci
 

Assuming the fuel pump and lines are in good condition and properly hooked up, then filling up both bowls of the carburetor is expected to provide sufficient run time for the engine to allow the air to be purged from the mechanical fuel system and start providing fuel before the carburetor runs dry.  Any air in the fuel line pumps up to the carb and is dispersed thru the vents.  Another option is to unhook the inlet side fuel line from the fuel pump and put a suction on that line to get the fuel up to the fuel pump before initially firing up the engine.  That will shorten up the time for the fuel to get to the carburetor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Finally turned the key: first try we were off a tooth, second try it fired up for the time it took to run the carb dry, refilled the bowls and again the carb ran dry before fuel from tank made it, checked fuel pump then pulled it and bench tested. BAD FUEL PUMP (Brand New)!
I have the engine filled with conventional Valvoline 10-40 and 1 bottle of ZDDP, this combo has plenty of Zinc and Phosphorous. We cranked the engine for less than 10 seconds and it ran for around 30 seconds. I guess that the assembly lube has been wiped off, so I am wondering what the best way is to succeed at this point. Maybe add extra ZDDP for the next start?
Which is the best fuel pump? I don't need any vacuum ports.





.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci