That sounds like a big problem, what do I have to do now to fix it, that oil do I have to throw away?

For first starts, a conventional grade of oil is recommended and not synthetic oil.  The reduced friction attributes of synthetic oil does minimize the friction on the new cylinder wall finish thus preventing the rings from seating in properly.  If the new cylinder wall finish glazes over as a result of non-friction, then the rings will take an abnormally amount of time to seat to the freshly finished cylinder walls. 
 
While attempting not to be an alarmist, I have seen instances on new engines where the cylinder walls glazed over so completely as to prevent the rings from ever seating.  Those engines had to be torn completely down with the cylinder walls being honed again to get a cylinder wall finish that’s conducive to seating in the rings.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

For today I leave it, tomorrow take care of yourselves 💪
 

Thanks for the advice, I take note. I was filling the engine with oil and I had a big doubt, it is Valvoline 10w40, but I have noticed that it puts synthetic I have added ZDDP, but is it adequate?

Be sure only fresh fuel is in the gas tank of the vehicle.  Old fuel creates its own set of problems.
 
Leave the vacuum advance disconnected for the time being.  The PCV valve can be hooked up.
 
Disable the choke for the first start.  Put some fuel in the carburetor bowls before attempting to start the engine for the first time.  This can be performed by using a very small funnel and slowly pouring fuel into each carb vent.  Just prior to doing the first start, work the throttle to full open and put 2-3 shots of fuel into the manifold.  Let that fuel sit for about ten seconds so it can vaporize some before attempting the first start.  Assuming the ignition timing is in the ball park, the engine will immediately fire up at which point you will want to bring the rpm up to 2000-2200 for the camshaft break in.  Twenty minutes of engine run in proves to be sufficient in most cases.
 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

thanks guys for the comments👍

Yes that will work for timing it.
You should have the distributor cap off when doing this to make sure you are opening the points while the rotor is in the correct position. (Just coming up to number 1 position, but before the points are starting to open)
  An easier way to set the timing with points is to leave everything connected (Except for the cap off for the same reason) and attach a 12v test light to the coil terminal that goes to the distributor. The other end of that test light goes to ground. Turn the ignition to on in your car. The light will come on the instant the points start to open. You can also use a volt meter but I prefer the light as you don't have to concentrate on looking at a gauge. Just remember you need to be rotating the distributor the opposite direction to the way the rotor spins when static timing an engine.
I only ever rotate the engine up to the desired timing mark in the direction that it would normally turn. That way it also allows for any slack in the timing chain. Unlikely you will have any slack though with a fresh engine.
Static timing with a light or volt meter is as precise as a timing light, but just takes longer.

For doing the Y with that distributor in a dark hole I disconnect the wire from the coil to distributor and  hook a lead from an ohm meter to the wire and other lead to ground  then watch when the contact opens.
I have done this for many years tuning  two cycle golf cart engines. On golf carts you have to adjust point gap opening as well for correct timing so engine starts easily in clockwise or counter clockwise rotation

Well, I only have to make the fuel line from the pump to the carb to finish and to put the engine in place. after that I will fill the motor with Valvoline oil to which I will add 4oz of ZDDP.

I will turn the oil pump with an old distributor until the entire circuit is filled with pressure. I'll fill the carburetor. What I don't know is if I should connect the vacuum to the distributor as well as the PCV valve? the carb is new a Summit "SUM-M08750VS" do you know if I have to do something for the initial start? I also have the question of whether to do the initial boot already, I ask it because due to the confinement state in Covid19 I will not be able to run with it in a long time, that would be a problem?

Your build looks great, you are paying attention to many details that are often missed, good luck with the first run. Just be sure to follow the cam break in instructions for the first run and your engine will have a long life


 I am glad Ted keeps emphasizing watching for the points to OPEN,  while the rotor is heading for the #1 terminal

Many people think the coil generates spark when the points close, thats a wrong assumption, the spark is generated when the points open and the magnetic field in the coil collapses  

I have timed many engines the way Ted described and they always start first try