Those are ‘steam holes’.  They were put in the deck surface and the heads starting in 1960 to get rid of an air pocket that could potentially form between those two cylinders in the block.  While they are sometimes referred to as cooling holes, they are not large enough to aid in any additional cooling at that particular area.  I have found the cylinder heads cracked at those steam holes so it’s questionable if that was a good idea or not.
 
Those added holes were installed at the same time that the low profile radiators started being used on the cars.  My experience has been that the ‘steam holes’ holes are not needed on trucks and vehicles that have the taller profile radiators.  The earlier vehicles and pickups with the tall radiators were not as prone to those air locks in the block as those vehicles that were supplied with low profile radiators (1960-1962 Ford cars with the 292 engines).  While the Fel-Pro gasket sets are supplied with instructions to drill the blocks and the heads with the added holes if they do not have them, I recommend against doing that.  I go out of my way to plug those 'steam holes' holes in those blocks that do have them when using heads that are not drilled for those holes.

If you already have the holes in both the heads and the block, then just make sure they are clean when reassembling the engine and use them.

Look for ‘EBU’ on the opposite sides of the rods.  If ‘EBU’ is present, they are the same.  Beyond that, as long as the rods are the same length and the small/big end weights are reasonably close as a set, they can be used as a set after rebuilding and balancing. 

 
If you are referring to the chip in the edge of the block behind the groove for the rear seal, it’s a potential problem.  If the chip is only on that one side, then install the seal on that side so it’s 3/8” above the main cap parting line to get some extra support from the rear seal retainer.  Some extra sealer at that point is not going to hurt either.

It’s too bad that someone in the past wasn’t too careful in their handling of the block.  But it is what you have to work with and I suspect that those blocks and/or engines are not just sitting everywhere in Spain.
 
While solder is easily formed and filed or worked so it can make the damaged part of the block look whole again, there’s not much to be said for the strength of such a repair being adequate enough to actually provide any additional support.  But it’s likely better than nothing.  Offsetting the neoprene rear seal when you put it in the groove so the end of it is sticking up ~3/8” (9-10mm) above the main cap seating surface on the side of the block that is chipped will allow both ends of the seal on that side to be supported in the aluminum rear seal retainer.  This would have the highest probability of working without experiencing any future problems or leaks.

If you can figure out how to ship it, I have a nice standard 272 block you can have for free. 

Thank you very much for the offer, how to bring it would not have it, the problem is that it is too high a cost 👍

I don't suppose it would fit in your suitcase?   

Let the machinist deal with any ARP bolt modifications if they are required. Just forewarn the machine shop or machinist that there may be an issue with the head of the bolt not fitting properly in the spot faced hole in the rod.  Do not install the rod bolts prior to taking them to the machine shop.  The machinist will be the one installing the rod bolts as both the rods and the caps must be machined at their flat mating surfaces prior to the actual honing operation to restore the big end hole sizing.
 
My preference for wrist pin bushings are those that do not have the holes pre-drilled in them.  Those non-drilled bushing do ‘swedge’ much nicer in the rods after installing them as having the hole already in the bushings upsets that operation.  After the bushings are installed in the rods and 'swedged', then the holes are drilled just prior to the bushings being finish honed to the correct size.  Be sure your machine shop has the proper equipment to 'swedge' the bushings into the rods.

I’m assuming you are talking about the pads on the ends of the rockers varying in width.  Closely examine the undersides or wear portions of those pads and make sure that the valve stem are making a full contact with the rocker pad.  If they are making a full contact, then no problem exists.  In the event that the rockers with narrower pads are contacting the valve stems at the outer edge of the pad and not making a full contact, then move those rockers to valve locations that will center the valve stem on the rocker pad.  Making note of where the wear patterns are before disassembling the rockers from the shaft will help to facilitate where to move them to if required.
 
Here’s a picture showing how the valve stem placement can vary on the rocker arm tip.  This is by design and is why the tips are designed to be as wide as they are.
 

In the normal course of the engine running, the rod bearing hole in the rod can become elongated over time and this will necessitate making the big end connecting rod bearing hole smaller again so it can be brought back to the proper size for the bearing to fit within it.  Also keep in mind that any time the rod bolts are removed from the rods, the potential is there for the cap to no longer align with the connecting rod as the rod bolts can find a new 'center' depending upon the rod bolt design.  Part of the rod resizing process involves grinding 0.001”-0.003” from the flats on both the rods and the caps.  This intentionally makes the rod bearing hole in the rod undersized so it can be honed back to both the factory specification and also become a ‘true’ hole once more.  Some shops will only take material off of the caps but by the book and doing the job properly will require both the caps and the rods being resurfaced at their flats.
  
It was interesting in looking for a video of this as there is a lot of misinformation and wrong ways in which to do the rod resizing operation.  I was happy with this particular video in regards to the big end resizing.  Ford full floated connecting rods do require the new bushings to be swedged into place before honing and that was not displayed in this particular video.
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzUa8kYLSRU

There are some things in a refurbish that I have always considered mandatory to be replaced, such as the timing gears and chain, rocker shafts and arms, and valve guides, springs, seals, crankshaft and rod bearings.  I know it is difficult for you being in Spain, but I would encourage you to try to buy a new set of rocker arms and shafts for your engine if you intend to use it on a daily basis for some years to come.  If it is a pleasure vehicle, then replacing the mismatched parts at a minimum.  16 new rocker arms should not be a job stopper.  Joe-JDC

Hi there
http://www.ford-y-block.com/dimensions.htm 
http://www.ford-y-block.com/enginepa.htm 
http://www.ford-y-block.com/valvetrain.htm
 The above may be of interest.
Shipping plus import taxes are a killer.
stuey
UK

The standard journal specs for the 292 crankshafts are as follows.
Mains – 2.4984” ±0.0004”
Rods – 2.1884” ±0.0004”
 
It’s always recommended to install the bearings in their respective bores and then check those I.D. dimensions to insure that the oil clearance values will be in the ball park.  My preference is to take those installed bearing dimensions and then grind the crankshaft accordingly for the desired oil clearance.    Checking all the bearing thicknesses with a ball micrometer also helps to insure that all the bearings are indeed the same.  The crankshaft can be ground either smaller or bigger than spec to get the desired clearance and that’s simply due to the different variances working against you.  When the various component dimensions vary to the extreme positive or extreme negative, bearing clearances can be either too tight or too loose if relying simply on the standard based values.  Bearing thicknesses due to manufacturing variances are the major culprit here when the machine work is within specs.

Those are reman conn rods. They will be exchange meaning they will want the old rods.

You posted your current rods are at a local machine shop now?

Capelo.  From John Mummert's web site, topic 'Y-BLOCK TECHNICAL INFORMATION', under 'Y-Block assembly errors' . . .

Oil gallery plugs. Remove all oil plugs and the oil filter adapter before having your block hot tanked. I’ve had the best luck by drilling out the center of the oil plug, leaving the hex. After heating the plugs with a torch they come right out. I have never damaged a block using this method.

Hope this helps!  

Good to see you got that threaded plug out.  They can be problematic at times.
 
While heating the plug and dripping beeswax on the threads seems to be the accepted way to remove those, I just haven’t had much luck doing it that way.  I end up having to drill a hole in the plug and use a square style broken screw extractor to remove those plugs.  I like to run taps in all the threaded holes before vatting to insure that the threads are clean and undamaged.

Another way of moving stubborn plugs or broken bolts is to weld a nut on it.

Any suggestions for installation?

Any suggestions for installation?

Gerotor pumps aren't available new.  Rebuild kits are available, Melling K-56, if you can find a good used one to rebuild.

If you have access to a soda blaster, it will clean those valves quickly.  If not, what you can do is spin them in a drill press and use a wire brush in an electric hand drill to clean the carbon.  Others have soaked them in carburetor cleaner and used scotch brite pads, or you can carefully spin them with a drill and use a 100 grit crocus cloth to remove the carbon.  I have seen some folks use a bench grinder with a wire wheel and wear leather gloves to hold the valves and rotate them to remove the carbon.   Many options, if you have any of these things available there.  Joe-JDC

Oven cleaner will clean the carbon off of the valves     Carl

this serves for me 292…?

The math for calculating the minimum required distance is as follows:
Lobe lift multipled by the rocker ratio plus 0.060” minus the valve lash.
 
In your case: 0.320” X 1.43 + 0.060” – 0.020” = 0.498” minimum
 
If going with 1.6:1 rockers then: 0.320” X 1.6 + 0.060” – 0.020” = 0.552” minimum
 
More than minimum is always desirable.

For positive type valve seals, I use U.S.Seals Inc.  For the 11/32” X 0.500” applications the part number is VS107V.
 
https://ussealparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=vs107v 

Charlie, one of the better quality knurling outfits uses a guide rod with an exposed hardened roller that protrudes above the surface of the guide rod.  There is a drill ;guide included in the kit that is slipped into the guide and a standard drill bit is used to machine the notch you noticed at the top of the guide.  The knurling tool is then inserted in the guide with the roller indexed into the notch and is powered with an electric drill to gently roll the guide material so that the guide can be reamed to fit.  The notch allows the knurling roller to start, the roller is set at a slight angle in the tool so that it "screws" itself down the guide.  I used one of those kits when I worked in a NAPA machine shop years ago.

Copelo, it's very difficult for me to determine with my eyesight but that isn't aluminum, is it? If it's steel and you left a small gap between the two pulleys to allow for some flexing and sxpansion, then I think it should work OK.  Nice machine work,  JEFF.................

I am not an expert in metallurgy by any stretch but IMHO some issues could creep in between this application of 2 very different metals.  Aluminum will yield much more than steel when compressed and not return completely to it's original shape when cooled.  AL also has a much greater thermal expansion rate than steel. Being "worked" under the heads of the 2 bolts and many thermal cycles it may eventually "work" loose.  There also will be a lot of compression under the crankshaft bolt. I hope others will comment but these are my thoughts on this very dynamic highly stressed part. Stressed by heat, mechanical motion and harmonics.  JEFF.....................

Sometimes I tend to over think the issue. I didn't realize the aftermarket add-on is aluminum.  Looks like you will be fine and again, nice machine work, I may have spent too much time in the aviation field. JEFF........

Capelo.  An oil deflector inside the (ignition) distributor housing? OR are you referring to an oil deflector inside the timing chain cover used for the first 3 years of y-block production that was intended to deflect oil onto the crankshaft gear?

- The rocker arm shaft on the oil pump side of the engine block, has an overflow tube that is intended to direct oil toward the ignition distributor gear that is driven by the camshaft gear.

- The rocker arm shaft on the opposite side of the engine oil pump, has an overflow tube that directs oil toward the engine's timing chain and the crankshaft and camshaft gears.

Please clarify what we're talking about. 

The design and construction of the piston will determine where the best areas of the piston are for any weight reductions that must be performed.  With that said, then the type of tools or machinery that’s available will dictate how the weight is removed.  In your case, a lathe or milling machine can be used to machine the cast lips below the wrist pin on the inner edge of the skirt. A milling machine equipped with a long end mill or cutter can be used to catch the thick portion behind the ring lands but care must be taken to not make anything so thin as to weaken or damage the piston. 
 
While I’m not a big advocate of using a drill for weight reduction in the pistons, it can be used if used prudently. Although not recommended as a normal weight reduction operation for pistons, drill bits are often used by the uninformed to remove weight in the deck portion of the piston and that can create stress risers there.  Nothing says you can’t use a drill on that lip on the bottom and inner portion of the piston.  You have to be careful in not going too deep with the drill.  Doing a multitude of shallow indentations with the drill bit will be much better strength wise than doing a fewer number of deeper holes.  Because you are only working with removing only two grams on some of the pistons, overall weight reduction is not going to be a major deal.

In regards to the picture asking where to take the material off of the piston for weight matching purposes, concentrate only on the inner lip.  Keep away from the skirt or outer portion of the piston.
 
 
On that rear cam bearing where both holes do not align with the holes in the block, you will need to modify the bearing so that the hole for the distributor shaft is open to the bearing.
 
 
On your ‘old’ camshaft with the added grooves, you only need one or two of the journals with a ‘cutting’ groove.  My preference is to only groove the second from last journal when making a cutting tool for the bearings.  If it’s a front or rear cam bearing that needs some material removed, then I’ll cut a groove in the end cam journal of the ‘tool’ I’m using or just use a bearing knife to cut the bearing manually.  Having the cut itself diagonal as you show in your picture is good as it increases the cutting area as well as allowing the bearing material to clean itself from the groove in the ‘tool’ much easier.  Also when adding the groove to the old camshaft, cut it at an angle or not perpendicular to the journal surface so you have a sharp cutting edge when turning only in one direction.  This allows the ‘tool’ to be installed turning it opposite of the cutting direction so it can be placed at the appropriate bearing without necessarily cutting on bearings that may not need any material removed from them.
 
Before doing any cutting on the cam bearings, put the new camshaft in the block from the front and rear using the respective journals on the camshaft.  Assuming those fit and turn fine, this points to the tightness of your camshaft then being on one of the center three cam bearings.  Then take the camshaft and work it in the two journals from both the front and rear.  If the camshaft still turns freely doing this, then the center cam bearing is suspect but this does not rule out a crooked cam tunnel.  I typically don’t see crooked cam tunnels on the 272/292 engines but there’s a first time for everything.  I would come closer to seeing a cam bearing that’s installed slightly crooked or ‘cocked’ but an undersize hole in the block can also make fitment tighter than normal.

What clearance does the harmonic damper have on the crankshaft shaft? I tried mine and I think it has too much.

Where are you measuring the bore of the pulley?  The pulleys are counter bored oversize for a short distance on the inboard end.  Measure your bore on the outboard (front)  end of the pulley hub.  I think you'll find a better fit there.  I think the overbore is to make it easier for the assembly line worker to align the key with the keyway.

Short of taking it to someone with the right tools and paying them to measure it, an inside dial caliper will get a pretty accurate measurement and pretty cost effectively, as far as precision measurement devices go, particularly for smaller measurements. There are digital versions, if you prefer that.
I have one of these for about 3/8" to 1 3/8" and it's off by about .003" from end to end.  I don't know if that's just the nature of all of them (error in converting angular movement to linear) or simply mine being a cheaper Chinese make.  If you use a micrometer to check and adjust it for the desired measurement, it will be accurate.

Link to an example.  There may be cheaper options, search for yourself:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPI-3-4-to-1-3-4-Inch-Inside-Dial-Caliper-Gage-0-001-Inch-Graduation-3-25-I/282535179307?hash=item41c868b42b:g:YvcAAOSwXetZSTGQ

Capelo.  I have twelve Y crankshafts sitting here in the shop from everything for a 256 to 312 engines including a steel crank for a 292.  The crankshaft snout measurements for those ranged from 1.2486” to 1.2504”.  I also had four dampers laying loose here in the shop and the hole measurements not including the enlarged register that aids in starting the damper on the crankshaft ranged from 1.2490” to 1.2499”.  Based on this particular set of measurements, the interference fit can be as tight as 0.0014” while the other end of the scale can have the damper as loose as 0.0013”.
 
Of not any consideration in regards to how tight the damper is on the shaft, the enlarged portion of the damper holes (register) ranged in measurement from 1.2685” to 1.2740”.  Those enlarged registers are about 1.300” long before getting to the portion of the damper that actually dictates how tight the damper will be to the crankshaft snout.

I have done dry assembly of the rods with the pistons to measure the free space with the platform, then milling for a zero platform, these are the measurements, I would like your opinion on how much to mill.
N°1- 0,044"
N°2- 0,043"
N°3- 0,044"
N°4- 0,052"
N°5- 0,045"
N°6- 0,0425"
N°7- 0,040"
N°8- 0,046"

The formula for calculating the balancing bobweight for a 90° V8 is typically 50% of the reciprocating weight and 100% of the rotating weight and then adding 2 grams of oil for each rod piston assembly.  The oil number is controversial and I find that the 4 grams that is added for each bobweight (2 cylinders) is on the low side.  For the Ford Y, I’ll use a minimum of 15 grams for the oil number for each bobweight.  Total bobweight values are rounded up to the nearest whole gram value.
 
For your combination, the calculated bobweight value looks like this.
 

Dynamic balancing is required on crankshafts.  As the weights of the pistons and rods are changed or altered from the original values, the crankshaft must be rebalanced accordingly.  While something as thin as a flywheel can get away with being static balanced, anything with any length such as a crankshaft requires dynamic balancing to insure each end of the crankshaft is appropriately balanced.  Here are a couple of pictures showing the fundamentals of static versus dynamic balancing.
    
 
Here’s an article that was published in The Y-Block Magazine going into more detail.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2007/11/21/engine-balancing-part-1/

Capelo, Just curious. Where are you located?

You must be in lockdown with the Yblock to keep you company at the moment. I believe things are bad over your way.

The crankshaft becomes underbalanced when not rebalanced to match the heavier combined weight of the rods, pistons, rings, bearings.   Any crankshaft imbalance that is present in this circumstance becomes more severe at the rpm goes up.  In this instance the crankshaft would need weight added to the counterweights at both ends in which to compensate.  When going to the other end of the scale where the bobweight value is lighter than what the crankshaft was originally balanced to, then the crankshaft becomes overbalanced.  In this instance the amount of imbalance at high rpm becomes less.  To correct for those cases where the crankshaft is too heavy, weight is removed from the counterweights in which to compensate.  In the grand scheme of things, crankshafts can tolerate a given amount of overbalance but are unforgiving in any amount of underbalance.
 
Part of the reasoning for balancing any engine during the rebuild process is to provide a balance that is better than what was supplied by the factory.  A secondary reason is to compensate for any non-factory parts and machine work that is performed.  While it’s a given that weight balancing only the connecting rods and pistons will help, only by rebalancing the crankshaft and other related parts is the job truly complete.  If it’s not possible to balance the crankshaft, then at bare minimum at least have the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate spin balanced on an arbor.  Be sure the pressure plate is marked or indexed to the flywheel so it can be reinstalled on the flywheel at the same position it was balanced.  The clutch disk is balanced separately on an arbor by itself and not with the flywheel and pressure plate assembly.
 
As the revised bobweight value for the crankshaft gets further away from the original factory balance value, so does the need for an increase in amount of work that is required to rebalance the crankshaft.  In going through some of my notes on Ford Y-Block balancing, the typical bobweight values for stock 292 rebuilds are in the 2032-2116 gram range.  Replacement piston weights are the cause for that range of values to be so wide spread.  What I don’t have are the original piston weights with any of this data which would give a better feel for what the original factory bobweight value would have been.  While the 2095 gram bobweight value that you need is within the aforementioned range, it is on the heavy side of average although it barely falls at the edge of the one standard deviation value from the mean of the values.  Here’s the data from which I made those assumptions.

The best piece of advice I can give you is to have someone familiar with engine building and/or assembly watching over your shoulder while you put the engine together.  There are many little details that can get overlooked if you are not aware of them.  There have been books written on this subject so there are only just a few items I can mention in just a few lines.  But I will touch on some of the important things to watch for during the short block assembly.
 
Double clean everything before assembly
 
Use sealer on all oil galley plugs
 
Check the ring end gaps on the rings before installing them on the pistons
 
Bevel the edges of the oil ring rail gaps so there are no sharp edges to scratch the cylinder walls
 
Install the rings on the pistons using a tool for that purpose.  Do not twist the rings onto the pistons.
 
Use plenty of oil or lubricant on all parts
 
Soak the timing chain in oil before installing
 
Insure that the camshaft turns freely
 
Verify that the camshaft end play is adequate
 
Make sure you have crankshaft end play when tightening the main caps
 
Use a feeler gauge between the rods when tightening those to insure you have no bearing twist
 
Make sure the connecting rods are free in their sideways movement on the journals after tightening the rod bolts.
 
Degree in the camshaft
 
If you are using a roller type of timing chain, be careful where you put pressure on the backside of the chain in which to remove it.  Pry the chain forward by concentrating on the flats between the pins and not the pins themselves.

I cannot help with the rings but if you are using the early edtion Eckman book  do not use the photo of how to install the timing chain, it's wrong. I forget the number of pins between timing marks (12 I think) but the picture shows them on the wrong side of the engine.  If your helper is not used to Y blocks he may want to line up the timing marks, dont to that either. Thats not how it works on a Y block

I think their was a good install guide on Ted's site, use it and you will have no problems

Be careful you are not using a metric bolt.. All bolts are SAE in these engine..
I'm sure you already know this. Just a reminder in case it slipped your mind.

Dave

I have a problem with the camshaft screw, when inserting it I see that it immediately tightens and it shows forced I have bought with a similar one and it enters by hand, but in the old camshaft it did!

Notice that the threads on the bolt on the right are not as deep as the "standard" bolt on the left.  That makes it sort of a self-locking bolt.  Original bolts in a Y-Block camshaft are  made that way.  The right hand bolt appears to be the correct camshaft bolt for a Y-Block.

For the Oil filter adapter I would use the Fiber gasket as the Rubber one is for the Air cleaner to carb.
Best Gasket website has the list of parts:




QTY       PART NO    CONTENTS
1             133               Oil Pan Drain Plug
1             175               Oil Pump Inlet Tube to Pan Seal
1             235               Oil Pump Relief Valve
1             275               Oil Pump Inlet Tube Seal
1             6286             Valve Stem Seal
1             1186             Oil Pan Drain Plug
1             1289             Down Draft Tube, T-Bird
1             1347             Oil Filter Mounting Bolt
6             1382             Push Rod/Valve Cover Grommet
1             1474             Oil Pump Inlet Tube Fitting
1             2002             Fuel Pump Bowl
1             2087             Fuel Pump Bowl, 54
X  1         2142             Fuel Pump Bowl, 55-57 T-Bird
1             2306             Fuel Pump Mounting
1             2313             Oil Pan to Inlet Tube
1             2331WP       Water Pump Bypass
1             2331             Oil Pump Screen Cover
1             2364             Crankcase Ventilator
1             2379             Oil Pump Inlet Tube Flange
1             2391             Timing Cover Seal
1             2458             Oil Pump Cover-Rotor Type
1             2837             Rear Main Cap Seal Kit
3             3228             Exhaust Pipe Flange
3             3346             Exhaust Pipe Flange
1             3424             Oil Pump Cover-Gear Type
X  1         3452             Air Cleaner to Carburetor
1             3483             Crankcase Ventilator
X  1         4256             Carburetor Base
X  1         4257             Air Cleaner to Carburetor
1             4278             Water Outlet
1             4279             Oil Pump Mounting-Gear Type
1             4311             Oil Filter Mounting
X  1         4361             Oil Pump Mounting-Rotor Type
2             5106             Rear Main Seal-Rope
X  1         5152             Air Cleaner to Carburetor
X  2         6151A          Carburetor Base
2             7093             Water Pump Mounting, 55-63
1             12054           Timing Cover
1             14041           Intake Manifold Right
1             14042           Intake Manifold Left
1             17022           Valley Cover
2             18005           Valve Cover
2             18093           Exhaust Manifold
1             24026           Oil Pan
1             Pinsee Armin
1             99999***     Special Knife Set - see Armin

ENGINE REBUILDING SET
RS572G-2
Ford V8 312 1956-57
x - indicates where part is not always found in other brands' sets

This is the front of the oil filter spin-on adapter, the gasket in your photo (Best Gasket no.1347) is not used with this adapter, the gasket (4311) goes at the back between the adapter and the engine block.
see item 6838 and 6749 here:


As you can see the bolt (tube) holds the adapter plate and gasket to the engine block. The bolt has no gasket needed. 6749 is included for the older canister cartridge filter housing.
From Ted's Website:

WD40 is not a good oil. It’s a water displacement fluid. You can still wipe everything with it but I would wipe your cylinder walls with auto trans fluid Or Marvel mystery oil on a white paper towel Over and over until the paper towel stays red. Cam should have the recommended cam assembly lube and the rods/mains assembly lube. I use Lucas since I can find it. I use it on all metal to metal surfaces, push rod ends, Rocker tips, cam gears/chains. Etc... everyone seems to have their own opinions on this. Good luck

Different manufacturers do things differently for similar parts.  Your new oil pump has the hole for one of the spur gear shafts drilled completely through the block side of the housing while the older pump you have does not have that same hole drilled all the way through.
 
While we are on the subject of oil pumps, it’s prudent to disassemble any new oil pump and examine its inner workings thoroughly for any problems.  Be sure the oil pressure relief valve works freely.  If there are any machining chips to be found, the oil pressure relief valve cavity is a place where they can be hiding.  A good cleaning and some fresh lube on the gears and the pump is ready to be reassembled.

Do NOT use paper towels to wipe any internal parts of your engine!!! Use lint free cloths only  please!!

I don’t know about the rest of you, but it has been a lot of fun following this thread. Capelo, you have been very thorough and careful; all of the experts on the forum have been very helpful, with a big shout out to Ted for his detailed explanations. This has been a great learning experience for a novice like me.

I can’t wait for the rest of the story to unfold. Capelo, I hope you can post a video of your running engine soon! Stay safe!

Thanks, everyone

I have disassembled the new oil pump and the gasket has come out of a piece, I still have a new one, I am going to wash and oil and reassemble, does the gasket have some kind of sealant?

Depending on how long it would be before installing and the first start, I would recommend using some sort of assembly lube on the internal surfaces of the oil pump as regular oil could "drain" off and cause issues with the pump losing it prime and not want to pick up the oil on initial start. This is no real issue if you prime the oil system prior to starting the engine.

Just some thoughts as I have had issues a couple of times with engines/new oil pumps refusing to pick up oil even using a priming tool.. 

Dave

Thanks for the comment, my intention is to rotate the pump before starting until I see pressure on the oil gauge and see that the oil reaches the rocker arms. On the gasket of the pump, does it have a sealant or, like the gasket that connects it to the block, does it carry nothing?

Not sure where you are going with the picture of the front of your engine.  I’m assuming you degreed in the camshaft and need to advance it 6° to put it where you need it?  If you have not started the degree in process yet, then you will need to start the process with the lower gear in the zero position.  Assume nothing at this point.  Because of manufacturing variances, the camshaft will likely have to be advanced or retarded to some degree to get it exactly where you require it.  Because I have come across different camshafts being as much as 18° advanced or retarded when the timing sets were simply installed with the marks properly aligned, it’s imperative that the camshaft be degreed in during its installation.  Taking it to the next level will have you checking the cam timing on at least one cylinder on each bank to insure that the camshaft was ground on the correct lifter bank angle.
 
Unfortunately most engines will crank and run regardless if they are off as much as a full tooth on the timing set but the key here is you want it to run optimally; hence the reasoning for at least checking the camshaft timing.
 
The Rollmaster crank gear is only marked on the outer row with the zero position for the twelve pins.  If moving the gear to either a advanced or retarded keyway position, you’ll need to put some kind of mark at the outer row of teeth so you can get a true twelve tooth count to the new mark.
 
Here’s the picture with new marks added for the 6° advance position to help clarify how to count the twelve pins when moving the crank gear position.
 

Assuming that the crankshaft gear is in the zero position and if targeting for 4-6° of camshaft advance, then you will need to remove and reinstall the crankshaft timing gear so it is in the 4° retard keyway.  Be extremely cautious when removing both timing gears in that you do not pry on the pins and instead push the gears forward by prying only on the flats on the chain.  Prying on the pins will force the pins forward and cause the chain links to come loose later.  Once you have the gears and chain reinstalled in the new position, then recheck both the intake and exhaust lobe centerline numbers and verify that the camshaft is sitting in the 5° advanced position.  If it is, you are good to go once you have insured that both the cam thrust and cam gear retaining bolts are properly tightened.
 
Before removing the degree wheel from the engine, put the crankshaft in the TDC position so that the timing cover, timing pointer, and damper can be installed to verify that the TDC on the damper aligns correctly with the pointer.  If it doesn’t, then tweak the pointer so it aligns with the TDC mark on the damper.

No sealant is required for the gasket.
 
Are you using a spin on oil filter?  If so, then the nut you show in the picture is not correct for the spin on oil filter plate.

I would suggest removing the paint where the oil filter rubber seal will sit when the filter is installed.  If you don't, when you go to remove the filter the first time, it will be stuck to the paint and nearly impossible to remove.  You may wind up using a punch, or a long screwdriver to stick into the filter to get it off.  Punching a hole in the filter will make a mess that can be avoided by removing the paint now.  Been there done that.  Joe-JDC 

For grade eight bolts on the Ford Y, I typically torque them 70# for the short bolts and 75# for the long bolts using oil on the threads.  I’ll bring them up in three steps being 35, 50, & 70/75.  Bringing the top row to 70 on the third step and then finishing them off at 75# works for me.  I’ll use a circular pattern starting at the middle and working outwards on each step.  Clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise (CCW) will not make a difference.
 
9     5    1    4    8
10   6    2    3    7
 
Deviations in this work as long as the head bolts are tightened in steps and not to full torque from zero in one step.  If someone else has variations in doing this, feel free to chime in.

No sealant is required for the gasket.
 
Are you using a spin on oil filter?  If so, then the nut you show in the picture is not correct for the spin on oil filter plate.

Only thing I would add. If the engine isn't going back in the car the same day, I would come back after it sits over night pull the last number again. What I mean is torque according to what Ted said. Then next day pull that 70/75 one more time. You might be surprised. I have had mine be several pounds loose even using different head gaskets, Felpro, Cometic and even copper..
Do this prior to setting valve lash.
Anyway that is the way I do mine.

Dave

The pictures of the engine are beautiful! How about some pictures of that awesome looking truck in the background?

Tomorrow I get with them

They look correct.  They are assembled the same way.  When oriented as they would be when installed, the driver's side tube will be at the rear while the passenger's side tube will be at the front.

Regarding the valve cover gaskets:

Sometimes aftermarket covers don't fit the gaskets correctly.  I've used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to widen the gap so that the gaskets fit correctly.  Once they fit, use adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover, to ease installation.
You can trim the tabs off of the gaskets that have them, to fit your valve covers.

Regarding the clearance to the intake:

Just about the same story.  Place them on the head and mark the areas that need clearance then use a Dremel to remove material until it fits.  Use an old gasket, if available, while doing this so that the valve cover is sitting at the correct height, so that only the amount of materiel that needs to be removed is removed.

If the gasket was not in place when you took the picture. put it in place and see if the problem still exists.  Note that a new gasket will compress when tightened so ensure that ensure that clearance is adequate for that.

A die grinder will probably work better for these modifications but most people in this hobby have a Dremel or similar tool and it works, just more slowly.

Hopefully this gets through the English to Spanish conversion without getting too distorted.
 
The rotor pointing at the #1 post in the distributor cap is a secondary effect of where the rotor is aimed as a result of the points just starting to open.  That’s assuming that the distributor is stabbed in the block so it will have the rotor aimed at the right spot in the cap.  It doesn’t matter where the #1 wire is in the cap as long as the rotor is pointing to that particular spot once you have the distributor housing adjusted to that spot where the breaker points have just started to open.
 
Because the rotor normally turns in a CCW direction, you will need to turn the distributor housing in a CW direction until the breaker points just start to open and no more.  It is when the points just crack open as to when the current to the spark plugs is generated.  The more the distributor is turned past that point where the points just opened, then the more the timing will be retarded.  If the rotor is not pointing at the #1 post in the cap and instead is pointing to another cylinder when the breaker points just crack open, then either the housing or the distributor shaft will need to be turned accordingly to make that happen.

That looks like a Boddingtons to me. Enjoy!!

Be sure only fresh fuel is in the gas tank of the vehicle.  Old fuel creates its own set of problems.
 
Leave the vacuum advance disconnected for the time being.  The PCV valve can be hooked up.
 
Disable the choke for the first start.  Put some fuel in the carburetor bowls before attempting to start the engine for the first time.  This can be performed by using a very small funnel and slowly pouring fuel into each carb vent.  Just prior to doing the first start, work the throttle to full open and put 2-3 shots of fuel into the manifold.  Let that fuel sit for about ten seconds so it can vaporize some before attempting the first start.  Assuming the ignition timing is in the ball park, the engine will immediately fire up at which point you will want to bring the rpm up to 2000-2200 for the camshaft break in.  Twenty minutes of engine run in proves to be sufficient in most cases.
 

For first starts, a conventional grade of oil is recommended and not synthetic oil.  The reduced friction attributes of synthetic oil does minimize the friction on the new cylinder wall finish thus preventing the rings from seating in properly.  If the new cylinder wall finish glazes over as a result of non-friction, then the rings will take an abnormally amount of time to seat to the freshly finished cylinder walls. 
 
While attempting not to be an alarmist, I have seen instances on new engines where the cylinder walls glazed over so completely as to prevent the rings from ever seating.  Those engines had to be torn completely down with the cylinder walls being honed again to get a cylinder wall finish that’s conducive to seating in the rings.

Any residual oil remaining in the engine when draining the synthetic oil is not expected to create any problems.
 
I would shy away from any 20W-50 oil for engines that do not have the additional bearing clearances built into them or is the result of high mileage wear.  Here is another suggestion for a suitable oil for your engine for break in purposes.  Be sure to add another bottle of zinc/phosphate additive to the oil for break in purposes.
 

Capelo, it’s been a week since your last post. We are worried about you! I hope you are still making good progress.

I’ll have to disagree with Charlie regarding the use of a single flare end on the fuel line.  And I also have an issue with using copper instead of steel for fuel lines.  I’ve been both ways early on (teenager) and the single flare ends to have a tendency to split at the flare opening while copper is seamed tubing which also has a tendency to crack along the seams when vibration is present.
 
A fire as a result of a broken or cracked line would not make for a happy day.  My recommendation is a steel line with the appropriate double flare.  The quality of the flaring tool also makes a difference.  If you need some kind of pictorial showing how to do double flares, just let me know and I’ll see what I can work up.

Is that copper or nicopp?

I have made hundreds of single and double flares with the tool shown and even with one which included rollers and tho they worked I was never happy with them.
3 years ago I purchased an Eastwood flaring tool, there are others too probably by the same manufacturer, and could never be happier. It handles up to 3/8" tubing and every end is perfect with 2 pulls of the handle and a click of the tool head. It can also put a "bulb" end with a little practice. Yes it was over $100 and since my son has done his complete brake and fuel system and I have done a rear end change and disc brakes I can say it was worth every penny. I'd show a photo but it's at his garage right now and are ez to find on the Internet.
Over the years learning to do things on my own and purchasing good quality tools that will last a guy time me a life time has not always been possible but was done as the need arised. I don't a shop or make any profit but sure am happy when thing go right because the correct tool was there to use.
We started using nicopp and so far been pleased.

Leaving excess fuel in a closed cylinder could wash the rings dry.
I would remove the Spark Plugs, crank the engine for 3-5 seconds to clear excess fuel then blow the spark plugs dry with compressed air. Reinstall and try to start the engine. If timing and carb are setup good then it should fire right up.

any advice on set-up and shooting will always be welcome

"Don't Fire Till You See The Whites Of Their Eyes".

Wait, what? I think something is lost in the translation.

Anyhoo, great job! Sounds great.

Happy Motoring!

While a wide band oxygen sensor would be a nice tool to have to see what the actual fuel mixtures are, I realize that is a piece of equipment that’s not feasible for most hobbyists.  Keep in mind that with only seventy miles on the engine, it’s still breaking in so don’t be making any wholesale changes until you get some more miles on the engine.  If you hear any clatter, pinging and/or detonation, then double check the ignition timing.  It may be necessary to unhook the vacuum advance to the distributor if 'pinging' is evident and examine exactly how much ignition advance is being thrown at the engine.
  
A vacuum gauge will permit you to get the best idle fuel mixture.  Removing and reading the spark plugs after driving the vehicle for awhile will give you an idea of the overall fuel mixture.  As long as the spark plug center porcelains are reasonably clean, your fuel mixture is in the ball park.  If you check the spark plugs after a considerable amount of idle time, I would expect them to look to be on the rich side which would be misleading.
 
Assuming that the color change on the spark plug electrode strap is in the middle or the bottom edge of the bend, your ignition timing is okay.  If the color change on the strap is closer to the centerline of the plug, then you need some additional ignition timing added.  This may require shortening up the lead in the distributor so that the total timing is not altered.  Likewise, if the color change on the spark plug electrode strap is closer to the outside edge of the spark plug, then you need to back the timing up some.

OK so now take it all back apart and do it again, so we will have something to read!
Joking aside, this has been a GREAT thread, Lots of info, thanks to all that contributed.
   

I’ve never seen so many rebuild an engine. But this many reading I sure can understand it..

This is one of the things I love about this group. A rookie Y-Block builder asked weeks worth of basic questions and got advice, tips and suggestion to help complete his project. Now he's on the road and people are helping him work the bugs out. I love you guys!

Are you using the electric choke?  If so, then there is a screw located behind and under the choke coil for the hi-speed idle that can be adjusted to bring the cold start rpm speed down.  Backing off the choke coil adjustment can help to speed up and/or reduce the amount of time that the choke is actually activated.  The power source for the electric choke needs to be from a switched ‘ON’ connection and a constant 12 volt supply.  Under no circumstances should the electric choke power supply be siphoned off of the power supply feeding the coil.  Also insure that you have good ground on the engine that in some form connects to the battery. 

Capelo,

Is that a two-pronged voltage reducer? It looks like you have power run to one post on the reducer and power coming off the two prongs to power the coil and the electric choke. Like Ted and Oldcarmark said, the power must be direct from the ignition. Don’t split power off to power both the coil and the electric choke. Run separate wires.

It’s usually best to check spark plug coloring immediately after doing some road driving.  A 180°F thermostat is the recommended heat range for most Y’s.  A 160°F thermostat can be on the cool side and may not permit condensation that forms inside the engine to burn off adequately and especially if the engine is not ran for longer periods or used just for short hops.
 
Other than that, how does the engine run when you jump into the throttle?