The truth is that it has been a very big change in terms of performance, I am very happy with the result, I only have a small oil leak that I have not yet located the origin. My outings are not usually very long, they are usually about 40 km on a regional road, with my three-speed manual gearbox, circular ground between 2000 and 3000 rpm, but when I pressed the accelerator you can feel the thrust and when it goes over 3000rpm it shows to a plus, the response is good in any range but from there there is a big difference, yesterday I pushed a little uphill and soon it got to 4000rpm and 80 miles per hour, it was in a tunnel and I love the sound when you contribute I only notice a problem in first gear and trying to go very slowly there I have to step on the clutch pedal. But at the moment very happy with the whole.

It’s usually best to check spark plug coloring immediately after doing some road driving.  A 180°F thermostat is the recommended heat range for most Y’s.  A 160°F thermostat can be on the cool side and may not permit condensation that forms inside the engine to burn off adequately and especially if the engine is not ran for longer periods or used just for short hops.
 
Other than that, how does the engine run when you jump into the throttle?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted, the engine had been stopped for five days, I have a thermostat but I'm not sure I know how much it is but I think it's 180f

While those spark plugs appear to be burning cleanly, they still look like a lot of idle time and/or the engine is running on the cold side.  Had the engine been at temperature just prior to removing the plugs for examination? What temperature thermostat are you running?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hi guys 👋 I haven't written for a long time, I'm still running the engine, it has 1500 miles, I took out the spark plug 2 and 6, I took some photos, if someone can tell me to come, thank you.
spark plug 2

Spark plug 6

thanks guys for the tips so i will 👍

Capelo,

Is that a two-pronged voltage reducer? It looks like you have power run to one post on the reducer and power coming off the two prongs to power the coil and the electric choke. Like Ted and Oldcarmark said, the power must be direct from the ignition. Don’t split power off to power both the coil and the electric choke. Run separate wires.

Soffian Adam
Jamestown, NY
59 F100, 55 Club sedan

Power for the Choke should be directly from Ignition Switch Accessory Terminal.. Should also have an inline Fuse to protect the Circuit.

  

Yes, the choke is electric, in the image you can see the connection

Are you using the electric choke?  If so, then there is a screw located behind and under the choke coil for the hi-speed idle that can be adjusted to bring the cold start rpm speed down.  Backing off the choke coil adjustment can help to speed up and/or reduce the amount of time that the choke is actually activated.  The power source for the electric choke needs to be from a switched ‘ON’ connection and a constant 12 volt supply.  Under no circumstances should the electric choke power supply be siphoned off of the power supply feeding the coil.  Also insure that you have good ground on the engine that in some form connects to the battery. 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)