If you can figure out how to ship it, I have a nice standard 272 block you can have for free. 

thank you very much Ted, I take note of it👍

Thank you very much for the offer, how to bring it would not have it, the problem is that it is too high a cost 👍

I don't suppose it would fit in your suitcase?   

🤔🤔Nos 😂👍

Hi guys, I am changing the bolts of the cranks for some ARP 154-6005, the case is that I have placed a pair but now I am not able to assemble the other part the bolts at the ends are more closed, I think it is due to the space what's in the crescent of the head of the bolts, but I don't know whether to lower the bolts or work on the connecting rods

It’s not unusual to have to dress the ARP rod bolt heads some on a belt sander so that the bolt heads fit cleanly in the spot faced location on the rods themselves.  Also keep in mind that whenever the rod bolts are removed and reinstalled in the rods, the rod ‘big ends’ do need to be resized.  When using rod bolts that have knurled shanks, those bolts will find a new center each time they are installed which is why the resizing is required.  If you don’t have the honing equipment for resizing the rod big ends, that resizing will need to be performed by a shop familiar with that operation.  I’ll also add that if replacing the wrist pin bushings, the new bushings must be ‘swedged’ into the small end holes of the rods before any honing takes place.  The swedging operation pushes the bushing material into the existing grooves in the rod so the bushing will not come loose and slip later.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

thanks ted. the rectification of the end I leave when I take everything else to the machine, as well as how to remove and insert the new bushes of the wrist pin, which by the way the new ones are clevite and do not bring any greasing hole, you have to perform one after assembly? Returning to the ARP bolts can I grind them all I have inserted or would it be convenient to leave them also to those of the machine?

Let the machinist deal with any ARP bolt modifications if they are required. Just forewarn the machine shop or machinist that there may be an issue with the head of the bolt not fitting properly in the spot faced hole in the rod.  Do not install the rod bolts prior to taking them to the machine shop.  The machinist will be the one installing the rod bolts as both the rods and the caps must be machined at their flat mating surfaces prior to the actual honing operation to restore the big end hole sizing.
 
My preference for wrist pin bushings are those that do not have the holes pre-drilled in them.  Those non-drilled bushing do ‘swedge’ much nicer in the rods after installing them as having the hole already in the bushings upsets that operation.  After the bushings are installed in the rods and 'swedged', then the holes are drilled just prior to the bushings being finish honed to the correct size.  Be sure your machine shop has the proper equipment to 'swedge' the bushings into the rods.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

ok I take note thank you, what is the original size of the holes of the large ends of the rods?