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Opinion on motor status 292

Posted By capelo 5 Years Ago
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capelo
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Ted (12/9/2019)
capelo (12/9/2019)
The old one seems somewhat deformed,  The one at the top can be the spare part .
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a9582869-88d9-4461-9cde-7c70.jpg 

There’s no 'top' rear seal retainer on my screen but the one on the right (has only one oil pan stud) would appear to have been damaged by a flywheel bolt that was too long.  Be sure the flywheel bolts do not protrude beyond the thickness of the crankshaft flywheel flange when bolting up the flywheel.



I thought that the photo was rotated by the above, the old one is the one on the right and the replacement on the left, now the bolts are the same and do not interfere I do not know if in the past, but it is deformed in the center and in side slots
capelo
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Ted (12/9/2019)
capelo (12/9/2019)
Different but the same?
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a8e72b03-0b93-4791-810e-db5e.jpg 

Look for ‘EBU’ on the opposite sides of the rods.  If ‘EBU’ is present, they are the same.  Beyond that, as long as the rods are the same length and the small/big end weights are reasonably close as a set, they can be used as a set after rebuilding and balancing. 




they are all EBU, which appear to be from three different suppliers, the length is in all 6,320 ", and the difference in weights is not more than 4 grams
Ted
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capelo (12/9/2019)
Can this be a problem?
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b603f734-d04a-4659-b1c3-6052.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/789d2b87-62cb-43c6-9ae3-394e.jpg 
If you are referring to the chip in the edge of the block behind the groove for the rear seal, it’s a potential problem.  If the chip is only on that one side, then install the seal on that side so it’s 3/8” above the main cap parting line to get some extra support from the rear seal retainer.  Some extra sealer at that point is not going to hurt either.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


capelo
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Ted (12/10/2019)
capelo (12/9/2019)
Can this be a problem?
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/b603f734-d04a-4659-b1c3-6052.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/789d2b87-62cb-43c6-9ae3-394e.jpg 
If you are referring to the chip in the edge of the block behind the groove for the rear seal, it’s a potential problem.  If the chip is only on that one side, then install the seal on that side so it’s 3/8” above the main cap parting line to get some extra support from the rear seal retainer.  Some extra sealer at that point is not going to hurt either.



Would it be possible to fill with solder and then rectify? Or would that option be worse? Ted the seal was already set as you advise, thanks
Ted
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capelo (12/10/2019)
... Would it be possible to fill with solder and then rectify? Or would that option be worse? Ted, the seal was already set as you advise, Thanks

It’s too bad that someone in the past wasn’t too careful in their handling of the block.  But it is what you have to work with and I suspect that those blocks and/or engines are not just sitting everywhere in Spain.
 
While solder is easily formed and filed or worked so it can make the damaged part of the block look whole again, there’s not much to be said for the strength of such a repair being adequate enough to actually provide any additional support.  But it’s likely better than nothing.  Offsetting the neoprene rear seal when you put it in the groove so the end of it is sticking up ~3/8” (9-10mm) above the main cap seating surface on the side of the block that is chipped will allow both ends of the seal on that side to be supported in the aluminum rear seal retainer.  This would have the highest probability of working without experiencing any future problems or leaks.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


capelo
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Ted (12/11/2019)
capelo (12/10/2019)
... Would it be possible to fill with solder and then rectify? Or would that option be worse? Ted, the seal was already set as you advise, Thanks

It’s too bad that someone in the past wasn’t too careful in their handling of the block.  But it is what you have to work with and I suspect that those blocks and/or engines are not just sitting everywhere in Spain.
 
While solder is easily formed and filed or worked so it can make the damaged part of the block look whole again, there’s not much to be said for the strength of such a repair being adequate enough to actually provide any additional support.  But it’s likely better than nothing.  Offsetting the neoprene rear seal when you put it in the groove so the end of it is sticking up ~3/8” (9-10mm) above the main cap seating surface on the side of the block that is chipped will allow both ends of the seal on that side to be supported in the aluminum rear seal retainer.  This would have the highest probability of working without experiencing any future problems or leaks.



as he says finding a new block here is almost impossible, I will work on filling to match that part and I will assemble the seal as indicated, thanks
capelo
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Is this necessary or just an extra?
capelo
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How large are the bolts that cover the pressure line of the block?
capelo
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it seems that that cover was badly mounted, rubbed with the camshaft
Ted
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capelo (12/15/2019)

Is this necessary or just an extra?

It’s an extra.  That modification allows for extra oil for the timing chain for those engines that do not have the oil trough mounted on the front of the block

capelo (12/15/2019)
How large are the bolts that cover the pressure line of the block?

¼” NPT for the oil galley plugs at the oil filter side of the block.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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