Hutzie.. I dont know the full extent of what has been done to your motor but I get the feeling you have a lot of "techincal" work done but maybe some basics are missing when it comes to forced induction. If you have gone to the trouble of getting a dyno I think you are going to try and.. how shall we say..." Get the most out of it", I dont think you are going to be happy with just 8 lbs boost .

What sort of head gaskets are you using?

Are you using ARP head studs?

The block or heads should be O ringed with a copper ring and a copper head gasket as well.

Tip; Dont use a coolant with glycol in it. Glycol has a "serching molecule" and the slightest crack or hole it will find it.

Those Finish guys with hollow heads should give you some more info.

Hate to see all your hard work come undone too quick.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Hutz, Keep up the good work.   The only way to figure to it out and get everything sorted is to jump in and expirement like your doing and work out one detail at a time.  Just make sure it doesn't ping.  Starting with the lower boost is a good idea until you get the fuel to it.    It took me a while to get my VR57 blower car working right with the teapot, but now it is pretty darn fast.  My original set-up with the blower had cast pistons and all stock everything including head gaskets.  That long block is still in running condition, but in storage today.  I started breaking stuff when I began building hotter combo's with more cubes, better flowing heads, and bigger cams.  It was sort of a grenade for awhile.   I think the first thing to go when I added the blower was the t5 which I broke three in a row before I upgraded to a Tremec TKO.  Of course then I started wasting motors, but I got really good at tunning it and have really figured out a good combo.  You may break a few things, but if you just keep working on it you will develop your own combo and the thing will be a thrill to drive.   Good Luck with the dyno, and keep having fun.

Pat Fleischman

Thanks guy right now I am just using fel-pro head gaskets because that is all I really can find.  I had a alot of trouble blowing head gaskets even before we boosted it.  We ended up posting the heads and throwing the torque spec out the window.  I am using ARP head studs and don't know the the torque but I got tired of replacing head gaskets so I torqued them to a 100 lb/ft and then gave them a hell of lot more.  I have not blown a head gasket since.  If you could give a link o place to get those head gaskets that would be great because I have a feeling that 8lb's of boost won't be enough and I will push this engine to the max.  That's why we build them!!  All the internals are forged so I am not worried about the lower end.  I decided to just order 4 bigger injector instead of adding four.  Gonna make some phone calls this week and try to get some ordered.  I will keep you posted.  Don't have a video yet because my dyno runs last about 2 seconds.  Started a run last night at 80 mph in 3rd gear and my split second WOT before it went lean started at 195 wheel horsepower.  I am sure I will order some injectors this week I won't be able to sleep just wondering what that Y-Block can do.

Vern Schulman (? Sp) used to sell a set of laminated metal head gaskets. When I got them they looked bit strange, but a long time racing buddy said he was surprised I could get those for a yblock and that was all he used on new Fords and blown head gaskets were pretty well a thing of the past. They're on the car now, but I don't have miles or load to know what's true.



I also read somewhere that alcohol required twice the lbs/hr as gas for the same hp. Not quite sure how that works with E-85, but if you could verify it and adjust it,maybe that would help with a start point.



Your rwhp observations are inline with local dynos near me. At 400 hp off an engine dyno, the wheel unit shows 100 hp less, typically. The gross can be 400, and corrected 210 or so. Big differences.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I wish I had experience with boost, and injection. But I don't so I'm just an interested observing hoping the best for you engine. Keep us posted!

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

I ordered my injectors today from moran motorsports they are 235 lb/hr injectors, my old ones were 85 lb/hr.  Those should be sufficient I hope.  Thery are designed to atomize the fuel great (so I read) but they do look like great injectors.  I talked to Wichunter (they clean and modify injectors) and he said he has tested a lot of their injectors and said they work great.  I cannot wait to get them and push this y-block. 

Just wanted to let everyone know that I added some pics.

Sweet! The gauges look great. I wish it was available when I was looking for mine. You should post this on slick 60s, too. www.slick60s.org.


Lawrenceville, GA

Well today was supposed to be the day to find out what this y could do.  I have my bigger injectors in and a new holley fuel pump, that twists the frame when it starts up and we got it tuned on the dyno and running great.  Went to do a few pulls and when under high boost it would sputter and backfire sometimes.  We added timing, took timing away and nothing seemed to help.  I removed the spring from the wastegate and figured we would try naturally aspirated but had the same problem.  I felt like an ignition problem.  I pulled my headers off and pulled my plugs and they were fine so I removed the protective heat boots and 4 of my plug wire ends were shredded from the heat.  I switched to autolite spark plugs because I was told they are alittle colder plug.  Unfortunately they are alittle longer than the champion.  A little too close I guess.  I ordered some Accel ceramic plugs.  Good for 2000 degrees ferinheit.  Maybe tomorrow.  We'll get her done yet!!  What would I do I guess if everything just worked.  We wouldn't learn anything right.  I will let you know.

Hutz, do you have a boost sensing fuel regulator or what. If not, that might be the problem. When boost raises, you should have more pressure from the regulator and more fuel to the injectors. What is your fuel pressure at idle and what it is with revs and boost? What is the overlap / LSA of your camshaft. We ordered our new cam from Schneider and it will have 116 deg lobe separation angle, so it will have less overlap.

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)