Hey everyone just giving an update on the truck.  We got trained in on the dyno last week but my truck wasn't running quite right so I didn't make any pulls.  I decided to completely redo my power and grounds.  I had a lot of interferance, mainly with my MSD 6AL box.  I ran my wires directly to the battery and my pickup has never ran this smooth.  I am really hoping to get it tuned friday and maybe make a few power pulls.  I learned alot about wheel horse power last week.  I think most people don't understand what it takes to get power to the ground.  (I know I didn't).  We did a lot of the training with my buddies 94 Viper and it put 240 wheel/hp, and 275 lb/ft of torque.  I am curious what my truck will do.  I am going to removed the waste gate spring when we tune it to get it tuned perfect without any boost and then put the spring back in.  We will do a few pulls with spring removed so I can get you some results finally.  Was just wondering I anyone is running boost what kind of timing you are using.  The guy that trained us has tuned alot of engines and he compared it to a 5.0l with a turbo and suggested nothing over 22 degrees advance and then take away one degree per pound of boost.  Any suggestions would be great.  To take a quick look at our Aussie toy go to robisrepair.com and click on the performance tab.

We ran our Y with 32 deg total at dyno few years ago. Here is the link if you haven't seen it yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yFwrPj8SnU

And that was with 99 octane gasoline.

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

0.7 Bar boost, big intercooler and flattop pistons. Fuel octane is european standard 99.





Y-Block handles a lot more advance than 5.0L.



Hyvinkää, FI

This engine was initially built naturally aspirated so my compression is roughly 10:1, and I am running E85 fuel (103-108 octane).  I have a steel balanced and stroked crank with probe domed pistons and h-beam rods.  I am hoping the lower end holds up.  I put the truck on the dyno tonight before I went home so I am hoping to get it tuned tomorow and have a few dyno pulls.  We will stay at 8 psi boost for now.  If the engine holds up I now that number will increase.  There is no such thing as Enough Power!!! 

I would not be running your engine at 10;1 with ANY boost ! Im no expert but I have fitted a supercharger with help from guys that have been doing it for years..

I bought my supercharger from a mechanic that had no idea what he was doing it lasted 11 minutes on his car.. he did learn alot after that.

This might be old rule of thumb. but if you want to be running any sort of decent boost you should be at 7.5;1 that should be good for 12lb boost.

Timing should have a fair bit of initail advance and maybe no more than 30 degrees all in by 3000rpm that should be a good start depending on your fuel! IF you are running all that MSD gear then go buy their boost retard to add to it.

Be careful all that hard work can be undone very quickly.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Turns out the octane rating of E-85 is higher than you might think. RB worked with this a year or so back. He may be a source on relative timing and Jetting. I know it's going to require more fuel than it would on Gasoline. But with 85% alcohol it'll run a lot cooler than gas and burn slower. will need more than 22 degrees I'd bet

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Nowadays 11.1 is more than normal with boost and especially with E85. Go on with your trial, but be sure if you hear any knocking, back up immideately.

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

This is true BUT this is also on modern engines which are completely computer controlled and typically have computers and software designed specifically for the type of boost. The computer can recognize problems and adjust for them quicker than you can react to a gauge and do the same. This can be the difference between blowing up the engine and keeping it unharmed and together to drive another day. His setup is more universal and lacks much of this. There may be other design elements that permit the higher static compression which are probably non existant in his engine. The E85 will help. Just watch it carefully.


Lawrenceville, GA

have you 'O' ringed this motor ?



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I am not sure what O ring means.  I am running a crank trigger for our commander software and we are in control of the timing curve throughout the whole map so we can retard the timing or advance at will, we found to pull out about 1 degree of timing per pound of boost.  We got it tuned today on the dyno and found out what we were concerned with.  As soon as we started out dyno pull and boost started we ran out of injector.  Me setup has four 85lb injectors.  As soon as I hit wide open throttle the duty cycle spiked at 115 which is irrational.  Our air fuel went to 14.5 when it should be 11:1.  So we are either going to buy four 2000 cc injecors or install four more injectors into the current system.  We have a 2in spacer plate under the throttle body and four injector bosses that we can weld in and then build some fuel rails.  This will be a little more work but the four injectors are about $1100.  I am happy with the engine so far though.  We started the dyno pull in 3rd gear (E4OD Auto locked in dyno mode) @ 65 mph and only pulled four about 2 seconds but the engine started there 185 wheel horsepower and 225 lb/ft of torque at 3100 rpm.  Ir shows good potential with over 3000 rpm's to go and 10 lbs of boost.  All I need now is MORE FUEL!!!  I will try to get some video soon the engine sounds nasty with the turbo and 4in straight pipe.  You can really here the compression just listening to the exhaust.  It turns heads.