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KULTULZ
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Well, I would turn the engine over by hand until I heard compression being released and then back it off before inserting the piston stop. I know what you are thinking and I realize you are much more experienced than I am but I would be concerned about the quality of the assembly work of the shop he had it in. I would just simply verify the timing(s) are correct before hitting it with the starter motor (and then watch the oil pressure gauge very closely). I am not dogging anyone, just here to learn and I have learned a lot on this forum. BTW - I am OCD (CDO in correct alphabetical order) ... 
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Hoosier Hurricane
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Kultulz, how do you know with a piston stop whether the piston is on compression or overlap mode?
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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KULTULZ
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I think it is important to use a piston stop to determine correct #1 TDC on fire. It will also ensure the damper is indexed correctly and cam/ign timing is correct. If you know for certain (no doubt in your military mind) that all of this is correct, then you would use the shortcuts (IMO). This is a fresh build.
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Ted
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Not having a LYB engine here to look at, I’m going to say that the #6 exhaust valve is the 4th valve from the front. The #6 intake valve will be the 3rd valve from the front. Verification of this is the exhaust valve will be in line with the exhaust port. When the valves are moving as the engine is rotated clockwise as looking from the front, the exhaust valve will be the first to move and then followed by the intake valve. As John mentions, as the #6 exhaust valve is just closing (coming up) and the #6 intake valve just starts opening (going down), the damper should be close to reading TDC. That will be #1 compression and where you want to drop the distributor in for #1 cylinder timing purposes.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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B-rad
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Which one is the exhaust valve
Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri
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Hoosier Hurricane
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Take the left rocker cover off. Turn the crank and watch the #6 exhaust valve. When the valve begins to close, as it nears almost closed the intake valve will just begin to open. At this point the timing mark should be at or near zero. Number one piston is now at the top of the compression stroke. You can now proceed with the distributor installation with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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B-rad
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Im putting my finger over the no 1 plug hole and I turn the crank clockwise around the tdc mark and instead of feeling my finger being pushed out i feel a slight sucking. I'm using a breaker bar so I can't move it a whole lot at a time. Is there another way to verify the no 1 piston is in the correct position besides this method?
Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri
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Ted
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DANIEL TINDER (5/26/2025)
Ted (5/25/2025)
Even dead stock engines are typically factory timed to some degree value that is BTDC. By the same token, a first start for any engine should always have a liberal amount of ignition advance before TDC to ensure an easy start. I have found that 25° BTDC for the first fire up will guarantee an easy start. As a general rule, that extra bit of ignition advance does not need much correction once the engine is fired up and the actual timing is set. Having some extra ignition advance on the startup will not hurt the engine and in most instances will have the engine running cooler for that initial camshaft break in period.
With all that being said, he’s a link to a past thread on the subject.http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost138330.aspx
Ted,
Re-reading your 2018 reply, concerning startup advance ‘leeway’, and ‘low’ compression’:
Would you likely consider your 20 degree BTDC recommendation a maximum with 10:1 static in a fresh rebuild (Isky E-4/centered)? That would be a No. 25° BTDC for an initial start is not a problem for most engines. The 13.0:1 compression in my Y powered roadster starts just fine at 26° BTDC even when heat soaked. You must keep in mind that when both the mechanical and vacuum portions of the distributor are maxed out in certain driving conditions, you are potentially looking at well over 50° BTDC on many of your stock engines.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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paul2748
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Yes - I misread it. pintoplumber (5/26/2025)
paul2748 (5/25/2025)
I never heard of the minus 25 degrees for initial setup. Could you explain that to me. I always put it on top dead center to start and it always worked (not a lincoln engine) Joe-JDC (5/25/2025)
If you had compression in the #1 cylinder as it came up on TDC, then you are at the correct position. You can have #1 up but not on the compression stroke. Pull #1 plug and rotate the engine over and hold your finger in the sparkplug hole as you rotate the engine over. It will spit your finger out as it comes up on compression. Set the timing mark at ~25*btdc and install the distributor. Check that the rotor is pointing to #1 plug terminal and not #6 or what number is in the firing order. Installing the distributor at ~25* will allow it to start and run fast while you are closing things up, checking water level, and then you can concentrate on setting initial timing. I would set it at 12-14* and try it there. Joe-JDC That’s not a minus sign in Joe’s post, it’s got curly ques at each end.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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DANIEL TINDER
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Ted (5/25/2025)
Even dead stock engines are typically factory timed to some degree value that is BTDC. By the same token, a first start for any engine should always have a liberal amount of ignition advance before TDC to ensure an easy start. I have found that 25° BTDC for the first fire up will guarantee an easy start. As a general rule, that extra bit of ignition advance does not need much correction once the engine is fired up and the actual timing is set. Having some extra ignition advance on the startup will not hurt the engine and in most instances will have the engine running cooler for that initial camshaft break in period.
With all that being said, he’s a link to a past thread on the subject. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost138330.aspx Ted,
Re-reading your 2018 reply, concerning startup advance ‘leeway’, and ‘low’ compression’:
Would you likely consider your 20 degree BTDC recommendation a maximum with 10:1 static in a fresh rebuild (Isky E-4/centered)?
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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