Yes or try another Solenoid. If You take it off and go for a Drive and it stalls. You will have to put the Wire terminal back on Solenoid so it will start. Worth a try.

  

Do you have a automatic trans neutral switch? I had a original s/w, neutral start, that would sometimes kick in the starter when motor was running.

56 VIC  Gene Stoehr Sr.

Gene,
My 1960 F-100 PU has a manual trans. "3 on the tree". I haven't had the time due to my work schedule but this week I'm going to start the test and checks mentioned above. I will keep everyone updated.

Thanks,




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Well here it is Y Blockers -  I Test drove the truck yesterday and it did not stall!!
Here are the two issues resolved:
Rocker arms (valve lash) much too tight. I adjusted Valves cold and then hot (.019- .018) Can I make them a little tighter to quite them? Maybe .015?
I believe the valve lash was non existent on many of the rocker arms. Maybe someone tightened down on them at some point due to the tapping sound. I always thought they were hydraulic lifters until I did some online research and got the shop manual out. The compression test after the valve adjustment was greatly improved. All around 120-130 except #2 was 110. The first compression test was really ugly and when I removed the valve covers and saw the vanilla pudding inside the top of cover I thought I had a blown head gasket or worse. I was told this is normal for these engines because there is no PCV system. I did clean the oil fill/ breather and increase the size of the valley cover back vent fitting to help prevent this.

After adjusting valves and reinstalling spark plugs the engine would not start and the fuel pressure showed 0psi. I blew out all the lines with air and checked tank dip tube and tip over vent. All checked out fine. I then removed the fuel pump and was very puzzled because in shot fuel out as I pushed up and down on the pump arm. I then noticed that the arm was bent a little and had wear marks on the side of the arm. It looked like it was sliding off of the cam lobe. I could tell this was happening because when trying to reinstall the arm kept slipping off the front side of the lobe. I placed the pump in a vice and bent the arm towards the engine about 3/8". Reinstalled and engine fired right up!!

I'm not sure if the fuel pump arm issue was causing all the stalling problems or the valve lash being nil. Who knows? While test driving and right after I noticed the engine temp only got up to 175 degrees. It usually runs around 185 -190.
Also I placed my new vacuum gage on and it read 20" Hg!! It was around 14". Thanks Kultultz!
The checked the header temperature from #1 cylinder and it read only about 60-70 degrees higher than #2. Before #1 was 150-160 degrees hotter than #2.
Set the idle at 750. It seems happy there for now. Still have to adjust carb mix screws and play with timing.

Thanks for all your help! Y Blocks Forever!!




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

CONGRATULATIONS!

So the valve adj was so far off it held poor engine vacuum? As for clearance, you want to stay within factory settings unless the valve-train has been modified in some way. You might want to check the condition of the rocker arms pads and valve stems for damage.

So this was done with not adding regular fuel? The engine heat may have been too much for the ethanol and now that problem seems to be solved. Interesting about the fuel pump arm being bent.

...when I removed the valve covers and saw the vanilla pudding inside the top of cover I thought I had a blown head gasket or worse. I was told this is normal for these engines because there is no PCV system. I did clean the oil fill/ breather and increase the size of the valley cover back vent fitting to help prevent this.

Listen as we have all ready covered this. The way you have the vent system is making it ineffective. There is no ventilation. You need to either add the correct road draft tube or go to PCV as either will ensure a much longer engine life.

____________________________

Kultultz,

Thanks! I have some questions from your post.

How do I check for rocker arm and valve stem damage.?I didn't see anything obvious. 

I never added regular fuel (ethanol free). I have always used Sunoco 93 OCT. This was on the list though.

How would I add a draft tube or a PCV system? Which do you recommend?

Thanks again for your help!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

You can alter the valve lash by a couple thousandths in either direction as a tuning or comfort aid but you don't want to vary it too much - learn to love the sound of solid lifters.  If they are factory rockers that have not been refurbished, wear will prevent accurately setting the lash with feeler a gauge, in which case, this method is best to use: http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html

For a quick check of the rocker arms, give them a twist side to side.  If you can detect any movement, then they are probably worn.  You can also loosen the adjusters and use a mirror to take a look at the valve contact pad.  Sometimes you can slide all but the end rockers away from the pushrod and flip it most of the way around to see without a mirror.  If signs of wear are found, the only way to truly evaluate is to disassemble the shafts for measurements.

I don't think there is a way to check valve stems without disassembling the heads.  The compression numbers are low.  A compression test needs to be done with the throttle held wide open.  Did you do that?  If not, then that will explain the low numbers.

The pump arm may have been damaged because of incorrect installation.  Maybe installed crooked and then forced into place by tightening the bolts.

Now to figure out why the 2-4s wouldn't idle correctly.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks Charlie! The link did not work for valve adjustment but I will search and find it.
I did have the throttle jacked open and a screw driver holding the secondary plate open for the compression test. The test was done cold.
I think you are right about the fuel pump installation being incorrect. I had tried the stock fuel pump and then went back to the Edelbrock pump. Its a little tricky to install and get the bolts started with the tension on the pump arm if you are on the high point of the cam lobe. I know now to just turn the crank a little with a ratchet to relieve tension. I've learned a lot through this saga!
Maybe this summer I will reinstall the 2X4's. I believe they will work fine now since all the stalling issues are gone and I have 20"Hg Vacuum.

The truck does not cold start right away. Do you think the adaptor plate bores not lining up with the manifold is causing this? Is there an adaptor that provides a smooth transition? Someone told me that I could cut the manifold with a jig saw to eliminate this restriction. Picture is on page 19.
Thanks again!


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

See if this link helps.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost8614.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Weird, it worked when I originally posted the link.  It's fixed now, maybe.  If not, just look in the articles section of this site under "Articles by the late Walt Nuckels."


Lawrenceville, GA