Kultultz,
Thanks for the video and the Top Tier links!
The Sunoco fuel was on the list of Top Tier gasoline stations which I have always used (93 OCT) The only problem is in the Philly area it has 10% ethanol. I looked into finding ethanol free gas awhile back in the post and made some phone calls. The Landscape supplier and 5 Gallon cans of race fuel are my only ethanol free sources. I think this Top Tier gasoline is 99% marketing. It seems like all the stations are Top Tier. I worked as a gasoline blender for 12 years at the refinery in Philly. The only additive was a anti-corrosive and this was a very small amount added to the blend. Another thing I learned while working the blender is you get higher vapor pressure gasoline (a lot more butane and lighter hydrocarbons) in the winter. In the summer the vapor pressure is lower and not as much of these light hydrocarbons can be added. This is for pollution control (VOC's).

I did run a hose out the front of the truck with a gage attached to the end a shoved in my vent window. When the truck stalled the gage held a steady 6.5 psi. The clear filter before carbs was filled with fuel also. If the gasoline is boiling its inside the fuel bowls. Most of the problems I have read about this say this causes flooding and I don't think it's flooding.

Oh, and I did temporarily insulate the fuel lines running from the pump to the carb. Still stalled the same way.




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

I did run a hose out the front of the truck with a gage attached to the end a shoved in my vent window. When the truck stalled the gage held a steady 6.5 psi. The clear filter before carbs was filled with fuel also. If the gasoline is boiling its inside the fuel bowls. Most of the problems I have read about this say this causes flooding and I don't think it's flooding.

All that showed was that the pressure held @ 6.5# between the pump check valve and needle/seat (or possibly excess pressure passed through the needle/seat until the float and float setting over-rode the pressure/volume increase if perc/separation was in the supply line) . If the perc/separation happened in the fuel bowl, the vapor will either exit via the bowl vent and/or enter the idle-power circuits, which will momentarily cause a rich condition in the throttle barrels possibly causing shutdown.

Oh, and I did temporarily insulate the fuel lines running from the pump to the carb. Still stalled the same way.

The fuel line runs along the engine to where it attaches to the pump. You have two heat sources just there, the heat absorption though the line and heat absorption via the pump housing which is bolted directly to a hot engine. Then the supply line is routed openly in fan wash and coolant hoses. It then runs to the carb via a steel line and then enters the carb which is all ready hot from engine heat. Think about it.

Again, E-10 has a much lower boiling point than straight gasoline.

It is going to be between fuel temp and timing IMO.

READ THIS - https://www.pure-gas.org/

____________________________

Y-Blockers,
I have not had the time to work much on this ongoing stalling issue but the next tests that I want to do are:

Adjust valves because an initial compression test on 1-2-3-4 cylinders was ugly. I hope its just a valve adjusting and not something major causing low compression and low vacuum reading, 10.5 "Hg, manual says it should be 18.

Perform a compression test, wet and dry

Verify TDC for #1 cylinder and mark. Check and adjust timing. Shop Manual says 10 degrees BTDC for 92 OCT

Pull distributor and inspect, clean and lube. Remove Pertronix electronic point and install OEM points and condenser.

Test drive truck with a can of ethanol free fuel, hose from can direct to the fuel pump. I don't think it's a fuel problem but I'm running out of stuff to check at this point!!

Any advice on the above tests would be appreciated.

Thanks for all your help Y-Block Heads!






Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Is your gas tank vented?  Do you have a vented cap, or a line to atmosphere?  If not, you are fighting a giant vacuum in the fuel system after it runs for a few minutes.  Try another new cap.    Have you actually been able to pull fuel from the tank into a container just prior to the carburetor? If you take the fuel line off before the fuel pump and take the gas cap off will fuel flow freely?  Have you tried to blow pressurized air from the front back to the tank to see if the lines are clogged?  Have you changed the fuel hose at every bulkhead from the tank to the fuel pump?  Have you actually tried to let fuel drain from the tank into a pail for more than a dribble to see if it will slow down or stop on its own?    Joe-JDC

JDC

Joe JDC,

Gas tank has a vent and cap is not vented. I drove truck with pop up cap removed and it stalled the same.

Fuel does flow freely when line is removed from pump suction.

All new aluminum tank, braided SS hoses and high flow cartridge type fuel filter installed.

I have not let tank drain into a pail to see if it slowed after awhile. I'm going to run on a can of ethanol free gas from a can in bed of truck hooked up right to pump suction. This should eliminate fuel boiling issues and tank/ pump suction issues.

Fuel pressure is 6.5 psi and fuel volume test checked out good.

Thanks for your help!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

I have been following this Post. Very frustrating for sure. I don't remember seeing anywhere if You tried another Coil? Just a thought as at this Point it's hard to know what to try.

  

Then you have a wire that is grounding out the ignition when the transmission is shifted.  Sure sounds like it is a wire that is hanging loose and can touch somewhere to ground.  If the fuel changes didn't fix the problem, then it is electrical.  Check all wires by gently pulling on them where they attach and check all the nuts for being snug on wire connections.  Joe-JDC  

JDC

oldcarmark,
I did try a new coil with no luck and I also disconnected the tach because I heard this can cause stalling also.

Joe JDC,
I will check for loose wires and grounds.

Thanks for your help,

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Joe I have One more Suggestion to try. I was doing some reading online regarding similar Situations like yours. One Article I read was regarding a 66 Mustang which has same basic Start and Ignition Wiring etc as your Truck. Long and short of it was they figured it was the Starter Solenoid intermittently grounding out causing Voltage drop to the Ignition System. When it stalled restarting it reset the short in the Solenoid. There is a Wire from Solenoid to Coil which supplies 12 Volts for starting which is supposed to disconnect once the Car Starts.If the Solenoid acts up it can cause voltage from Coil to ground back through Solenoid. Worth a Try for very little Cost. For what my Opinion is Worth I think You have an Electrical Problem as nothing has improved after doing all that work on Fuel System.

  

oldcarmark,
Hey its worth a try! How would I test to see if this is the problem? Maybe start the engine and then remove the wire from the coil that goes to the starter solenoid?

Thanks for the help!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs