Thanks Ted!
Here it is.  My buddy at work did a great job bead blasting it. I removed the exhaust tubing from center section  and plugged the holes. The engine paint matched pretty close.

Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

... woo ...


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holley-Edelbrock-to-Carter-WCFB-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Adapter-Plate,5551.html

____________________________

hello! we had a similar problem with a friends e-bird that I rebuilt! it ran fine but would not idile down below 750rpm, and it would load up on fuel when shut off! unhooking one carb at a time made no differents and the idle screws were hard to adjust, like had a vacume leak, but none was found! we finally found it had a pin hole in one of the fuel bowl's and would only leak after it warmed up! I had a spare carb and that fixed the problem. now it idles fine and runs great!

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.

yalincoln,

Thanks sharing your story. I installed a single carb manifold and a newer Edlebrock carb. It seems that one of the WCFB's (I think the front carb) is out of calibration and pulling in too much air due to the throttle plates not closing off. I did start it last week with the new set up and it idled sweet and I was able to turn the idle all the way down. I have not had a chance to test drive to know for sure. Stay tuned for an update coming soon.

Joe D (The Frig)

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Well Y blockers here it is....
I test drove the truck yesterday and it still stalled! Not only did it stall like before with the dual quads but it was hard to restart from a dead stop. I could jump start easily by placing trans back in gear and popping clutch.

It seems like its not getting fuel so I reinstalled a glass filter near the carb to keep an eye on after stalling event.

Here we go again!



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Temporary fuel line set up: Valve with clear tube to a bottle, Pressure gage and clear filter.

Fellow Y Blockers,
Stalling issue update:

Still stalling after engine is up to temperature (180-185).
Installed 1X4 manifold and 600CFM Edelbrock carb. I was able to set idle at 700rpm and can turn lower. With the Carters (2X4) I could not turn the idle down below 1000rpm. I though they were the problem but stalled the same.
Manifold Vacuum reading is 10.5"Hg.
Passed the fuel volume and fuel pump output tests.
After stalling event fuel pressure remains around 6.5psi right before carb and clear filter remains full of fuel. It does not seem to be flooding!
I'm going to remove the distributor and inspect clean and lubricate to ensure it's not sticking advanced (centrifugal). Also while its out install points and condenser and remove Pertronix electronic points. You never know at this point!
Going to also perform a compression test of each cylinder.
#1 cylinder header still reads more than 100 degrees higher than the others. Exhaust valve not opening or closing?  I do not notice the engine missing.

Any help would be appreciated!

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

The manifold vacuum is still way too low. You mentioned previously that you had trouble base timing the engine. IMO, you need to verify TDC with a piston stop and check the balancer markings

Good idea to check PERTRONIX with points replacement. The IGNITOR I can give problems.

It is now down to either fuel and/or timing. The carb may still being effected by poor fuel, either percolation, blend separation and/or vapor lock.

Is there a source of non-ethanol gasoline near you? Do you know what TOP TIER GASOLINE is?

What is with the sweat band around the oil fill tube?

____________________________

Kultulz,
I did locate TDC with my neighbor's finger in #1 cylinder and we marked pully. I did just purchase a timing light and will recheck this.
 What is a piston stop? Just a indicator that lets you know when piston is at TDC?
I can get ethanol free gas from a landscaper supply house who has it in a 55 gallon drum. I could fill 5 gallon cans and transfer to my tank. I can also get 5 gallon cans of race fuel at a Sunoco station or local speed shop. I never heard of Top Tier Gasoline but I did hear of it referred to as Aviation Gasoline.

The tube sock around the oil fill tube/ breather is to keep the oil mist from blowing on my nice clean engine.

Thanks for your help,





Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Watch This - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RENhHI9n65I

Trying to find true TDC with a finger or watching valve movement is akin to being somewhat close, as in horse shoes, hand grenades and thermo-nucleur warfare.

If you are misting from the oil fill cap, you have no crank-case ventilation or extreme blow-by.

____________________________

TOP TIER GASOLINE - https://www.toptiergas.com/

Bargain branded gasoline may/may not conform to standards or be imported.

What you need is a non-ethanol gasoline to see it is percolating/bend separation in the fuel bowl. That would eliminate fuel supply as a possible cause.

You don't need RACING FUEL - waste of money for your application. I am still concerned as to how the builder routed the supply fuel line(s) the way he did. Will absorb a lot of heat.



What would really help would be able to position the pressure gauge (outside of cab) to monitor  while you drive. Be very careful here.

____________________________