OH!

I see an EDEL fuel pump on yours. Test the fuel pressure. It may be too much for those carbs.

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JDC,
Both carbs are supplying idle fuel now and as of yesterday afternoon both are operating together with the throttle linkage. I just had to move a stopper back on the linkage. It ran fine after changing this but still stalling after its up to temp. 
Thanks,
Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Kultulz,
I didn't realize carbs were calibrated when they were rebuilt. I thought you just adjusted the mix screws and the idle screw and away you go. I will ask about that. Thanks.
The carbs have no choke plates at all. They were removed.
I have a Tach installed on my dash.
Using port off of the rear carb but also tried manifold port (14" vacuum) and also plugging all three. I did not seem to notice any difference in performance after trying these combinations.
Edlel fuel pump is rated at 5 psi. and worked fine for about 2 years. Could be famous last words right!

I'm going to install a clear fuel filter before the carbs to see what happens after a stall. It seems to be starving for fuel and not flooding. I have never smelled a lot of gas nor have I noticed any black smoke out of the exhaust when re starting which would indicate flooding.
Thanks for your help!
Joe D



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

[quote]Joe D (12/19/2018)

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I talked to the carb shop and he said the carbs are 450 -500 CFM range and he said they worked fine for a carb of this size.





Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Mix screws backed out two turns. tried to adjust but really didn't seem to change how it idled. Carbs are synched at idle.

Manifold vacuum reading 14 " at 1000RPM.

Drove to work this morning and stalled coming off of highway and I could not keep it idling without goosing the accelerator. Before carbs were rebuilt it seemed to recover after a couple of minutes of goosing and idling.

OK, let's start again.

When the truck de-accelerates, it shuts off? Is this in gear or out of gear (between gears)? Does it stall straight ahead or on a turn? Re-start easily?

Your manifold vacuum is 14HG and steady? Right now, where is your source of DIST vacuum advance?



If you adjust the mixture screws without any change, there is going to be an internal carb problem. The style of carb the builder chose to use are both Primary. Both will have idle circuits. If you want both to open in unison, all you are doing is wasting gasoline on a street engine (again IMO). It will be difficult to trace a carb problem with two working together.

Now does it ever idle erratically or the TACH reads incorrectly?

No chokes?

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Kultultz,
When on the highway and coming to a light or exit and trans is placed in neutral engine dies. You can watch the tach drop to zero rapidly.
If left in gear as long as possible when coming to a stop and then goosing the accelerator, I can keep it running and eventually it recovers and runs good until its placed in neutral again.
Straight ahead driving but it does it while turning as well. 
It does not happen until engine is up to around 180 degrees. When placed in neutral at lower temperatures it hold 1000 rpm steady.
It restarts fairly easy with no gas smells or black smoke or backfires.
Distributor vacuum advance is hooked up to the rear carb port.
It does idle erratically after stalling but recovers after a few minutes.
Tach reads fine.
No Chokes. Its a pain for a few minutes but warms up pretty quickly. 
Thanks for the help!

Joe D  

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Oh one more thing! I hooked up a clear fuel filter at the inlet of the carbs. After the truck stalled I checked the filter without trying to restart. The filter remained full of gasoline so that should eliminate any fuel starving issues.

Thanks again!

Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

When you say carb port, are you referring to a port on the carb body or the nipple in the intake manifold plenum I tried to show on the photo?

If on carb, any outlet above the throttle plates is ported and below throttle plates is manifold vacuum.

What I am thinking is that with the high idle and 14HG manifold vacuum @ idle is that the initial timing is retarded. If connected to manifold vacuum, the vacuum advance feature will go full advance giving the high curb idle RPM. Someone may have tried to correct this by mis-adjusting the throttle plates.

This is why identification of the carb(s) is important to choose the correct kit and make adjustments such as throttle plates.

Also, ensure proper operation of DIST breaker plates with either a vacuum pump or a hose and sucking. Confirm that the upper plate moves easily when vacuum is applied, the canister holds vacuum and a fast and smooth return when vacuum source is ended.

If using full manifold vacuum on an advance, when the throttle plates are suddenly closed, a full manifold signal is sent to the DIST advance and may cause stalling. That was one of the purposes of the dual diaphragm on the 56 LOAD-O-MATIC.

Other than this, the only thing I can think of is a dash-pot to prevent the throttle blades from snapping shut.

And of course, the idle mixture screws not responding. It sounds like the guy just threw a kit(s) into them and called it a day. Why CARTER didn't ID their carbs with stamping like HOLLEY is beyond me.

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