KultulZ
I gave up on ID ing the carbs and finding the right kits for them. Even if I found one I would then I'd have to find someone to do the rebuild because It's above my capabilities.
I'm sending them out tomorrow  to be rebuilt and hopefully have them back in 2 weeks.
I'll be asking for help when I have them re installed and it comes time to adjust them. I should have my uni-sync ready by then and my new vacuum gage kit!
Thanks Again!
Joe D


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

COPY!

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Well I got the carbs back reinstalled and test drove. Still stalling after up to temp!!!! Runs great until up to 180 degrees.
Carb idle screws backed all the way out. Idles around 1000 RPM. Mix screws backed out two turns. tried to adjust but really didn't seem to change how it idled. Carbs are synched at idle. Manifold vacuum reading 14 " at 1000RPM.
Drove to work this morning and stalled coming off of highway and I could not keep it idling without goosing the accelerator. Before carbs were rebuilt it seemed to recover after a couple of minutes of goosing and idling. Matbe because mix screws are not adjusted yet.
HELP!!!! Y Blockers!!!
Joe D


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

... ain't this a b!tch ...

Wherever you sent the carbs, was he able to ID them and also as a matched set or different models?

Do you know if the set has a PRIMARY and SECONDARY (or both primary) carb and are you using direct linkage or progressive linkage? Did the guy you bought it from give any info on the cam installed? This is using a 57/ DUAL ADVANCE DIST?

1000RPM curb idle has to hide one heck of a cam (or vacuum leak).

Let me re-read all of th posts again.
 

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Every time I read your entries, I come back to the idea that happened to me with a similar situation with stalling, idling ok, and stalling after driving a short distance.  After rebuilding my carb, changing everything, plugs, points, cap, rotor, etc., it would crank up fine, idle fine, but stall when I drove a short distance, or came to a stop.  I finally traced it down to a fuel filter that was pulling sediment up against the opening and closing it off, especially under deceleration.  When the car stopped, the sediment settled back level with the filter, and fuel would fill the carb bowl and the engine would start and idle just fine.  Changed the filter and no more problem, until the filter started clogging up again.  These older fuel systems need to be flushed occasionally, if possible, to remove any moisture from the oxygenated fuel that settles to the bottom of the tank.  The moisture will cause the tank to rust if not removed immediately with fresh fuel, or a moisture agent to mix it with the fuel again.  Had the similar experience with EFI, and added a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with additive to remove moisture, and skipping went away almost immediately.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Kultulz,
 The guy who rebuilt the carbs was not interested in trying to IDing. He said they had all the parts and would rebuild.
I know they are Carter WCFB with vacuum operated secondary's
The linkage operates the rear carb first and then the front carb as you accelerate more.I guess that's progressive right?
I would like to have them operate together for daily driving as advised in an earlier post.
Stock cam was used in rebuild the previous owner said.
I believe its a dual advance distributor as stated in earlier post.

Thanks for your help!

Joe JDC
I installed a high flow canister type of racing filter that is mounted back by the fuel tank. I had a small clear glass one before the pump suction and I thought that it could be causing pump cavitation or a restriction.
New fuel tank, new fuel lines, new mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter and rebuilt carbs with screens in the inlet.
I did try running truck with the gas fill cap off to see if maybe a vacuum was occurring from tank vent being blocked.
Thanks for your help Joe

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Kultulz,
I did insulate the fuel lines running up to the carbs since that picture was taken.

Thanks,
Joe


Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

If you are driving with the rear carb only off idle, and then the front carb comes in later, you are not progressive, you are starving the engine when letting off the accelerator.  Both carbs should at least be supplying idle fuel, and I would prefer the engine operate off the front carb just for fuel distribution purposes.  There are many fuel linkage kits available from Jegs, Dashman, Summit, etc. that you should be able to make yours work together, or progressive without much trouble.  Joe-JDC

JDC

The guy who rebuilt the carbs was not interested in trying to IDing. He said they had all the parts and would rebuild.

How in the world did the guy calibrate the carb(s) if he had no idea what they were off of?

You say it happens once it is at operating temp. Either she is too lean (choke off), if IGN I in the DIST (you have an electric TACH?), or something is opening with heat to cause a vacuum leak.

Are you using manifold vacuum or ported vacuum for the DIST advance?

Let me re-read the thread. There was a period service bulletin on a certain WCFB.

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