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Oil pressure?

Posted By HoLun 17 Years Ago
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46yblock
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Correction on the cold idle pressures:  45 psi cold idle and 52 psi cold 2500 rpm.  There is no sign of detonation with 89 octane mid grade and 6 degrees initial.  Plan to bump up initial a couple degrees and see what happens.  Spark plugs look perfect with a Mustang 2V 1.14 venturi carb/51 jets.  Comp. ratio calculates at 9.2 to 1, and I will have actual cylinder pressures soon.  Things are looking pretty good so far BigGrin

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.


simplyconnected
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Mike, you are breaking in your new engine, right.  I'm sure it will give you even better performance as it wears-in.

That 52-psi is just fine, and you're right, ~60 would be my max.

Some things are well worth sacrificing gas mileage for.  Detonation from running too lean is tops on my list.  These carbureted engines aren't computer controlled, so our settings may stay the same, but the weather changes.  Some days your engine will run sweet.  All we can do is tune our adjustments within safe limits, then let it go.

Glad you set your oil pump up right.  Extra lubrication will pay off big dividends in the long run.

Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

46yblock
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Simplyconnected and Gary, yeah I am pleased with the pressure.  Really didnt want anything higher given the mpg objectives of this low rpm application, and feared with the .120 shim the pressure might shoot up to 60.  The oil is Valvoline VR-1 (think that is what they call it) which is their racing oil full of ZDDP.  Plus there is the Comp Cam breakin additive for the first 500 miles.  The 10/30 was the choice to get a few more miles per tank.  Cold pressure was like 25/52, or close.  The engine has 250 miles on it so far.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.


speedpro56
Posted 15 Years Ago
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46yblock, are you running a zddp additive with the 10w 30w oil? Just want you to be on the safe side, I run 10w 40w  and 15w 50w so I won't have to add the oil additive.

-Gary Burnette-


simplyconnected
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46yblock (5/26/2009)
Did it using .120 shim and pressure is better.  After dropping hot idle to 600 rpm, now have 23-24 psi, and 47-48 psi underway hot.  10W30 oil.  The rotor oil pump may have a little more wear on it than I thought.

Those pressures are REAL good!  What are they cold?

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

46yblock
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Ted (5/25/2009)
46yblock (5/24/2009)
Ive read all the posts with a lot of interest, because of some similar problems.  My oil pressure is 25 psi at cold and hot idle.  30 psi while driving, cold or hot.  New engine.  Should the spring be shimmed?  What is your best guess as to what is happening in the pump currently? 

Shimming the oil pump spring only raises the oil pressure if the oil pressure is already high enough to open the relief valve.  Stock relief valves open in the vicinity of 55 psi with factory fresh springs but if the spring is weak or damaged, then the relief valve can potentially be opening prematurely.  In your case, it’s quite easy to simply remove the screw in plug holding the relief valve spring and add some shims.  Be sure the shims are small enough in diameter to fit within the hollow portion of the plug.  Adding 0.100”-0.120” of shim to the spring will let you know quite quickly if you have a spring related problem or if you need to look elsewhere.

Did it using .120 shim and pressure is better.  After dropping hot idle to 600 rpm, now have 23-24 psi, and 47-48 psi underway hot.  10W30 oil.  The rotor oil pump may have a little more wear on it than I thought.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.


46yblock
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Thanks Ted, and thanks Holun for starting the thread.  Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.


Ted
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46yblock (5/24/2009)
Ive read all the posts with a lot of interest, because of some similar problems.  My oil pressure is 25 psi at cold and hot idle.  30 psi while driving, cold or hot.  New engine.  Should the spring be shimmed?  What is your best guess as to what is happening in the pump currently? 

Shimming the oil pump spring only raises the oil pressure if the oil pressure is already high enough to open the relief valve.  Stock relief valves open in the vicinity of 55 psi with factory fresh springs but if the spring is weak or damaged, then the relief valve can potentially be opening prematurely.  In your case, it’s quite easy to simply remove the screw in plug holding the relief valve spring and add some shims.  Be sure the shims are small enough in diameter to fit within the hollow portion of the plug.  Adding 0.100”-0.120” of shim to the spring will let you know quite quickly if you have a spring related problem or if you need to look elsewhere.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


charliemccraney
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Thanks, Ted. You know, I looked right at that post.

Isn't it interesting how the mind lets one see only what it wants him to see?


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Ted
Posted 15 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (5/23/2009)
Does anyone know the spring rate of the stock oil pump spring?

Charlie.  Believe what you're looking for is at this link.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost22736.aspx 



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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