I'm probably from a whole different school of thought than everyone else. I see no reason to want higher oil pressure. You need enough volume of oil for it to get every where. Cummins Diesel dropped their oil pressure from around 60 at governed rpm to 30 because it takes horse power for the extra pressure. Our over the road engines are derated to 370 hp and 1450 ft lbs torque, but are capable of 525hp and 1850 ft lbs torque with 30 psi oil pressure. Cummins made that change 30 years ago with no problems.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Ive read all the posts with a lot of interest, because of some similar problems.  My oil pressure is 25 psi at cold and hot idle.  30 psi while driving, cold or hot.  New engine.  Should the spring be shimmed?  What is your best guess as to what is happening in the pump currently? 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Charlie.  Believe what you're looking for is at this link.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost22736.aspx 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks, Ted. You know, I looked right at that post.

Isn't it interesting how the mind lets one see only what it wants him to see?


Lawrenceville, GA

Shimming the oil pump spring only raises the oil pressure if the oil pressure is already high enough to open the relief valve.  Stock relief valves open in the vicinity of 55 psi with factory fresh springs but if the spring is weak or damaged, then the relief valve can potentially be opening prematurely.  In your case, it’s quite easy to simply remove the screw in plug holding the relief valve spring and add some shims.  Be sure the shims are small enough in diameter to fit within the hollow portion of the plug.  Adding 0.100”-0.120” of shim to the spring will let you know quite quickly if you have a spring related problem or if you need to look elsewhere.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted, and thanks Holun for starting the thread.  Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Did it using .120 shim and pressure is better.  After dropping hot idle to 600 rpm, now have 23-24 psi, and 47-48 psi underway hot.  10W30 oil.  The rotor oil pump may have a little more wear on it than I thought.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Those pressures are REAL good!  What are they cold?

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

46yblock, are you running a zddp additive with the 10w 30w oil? Just want you to be on the safe side, I run 10w 40w  and 15w 50w so I won't have to add the oil additive.

-Gary Burnette-

Simplyconnected and Gary, yeah I am pleased with the pressure.  Really didnt want anything higher given the mpg objectives of this low rpm application, and feared with the .120 shim the pressure might shoot up to 60.  The oil is Valvoline VR-1 (think that is what they call it) which is their racing oil full of ZDDP.  Plus there is the Comp Cam breakin additive for the first 500 miles.  The 10/30 was the choice to get a few more miles per tank.  Cold pressure was like 25/52, or close.  The engine has 250 miles on it so far.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.