Stephan.  A set of micrometers and snap gauges will go a long way in measuring some of your critical bore and journal measurements.  They will also verify exactly what bore size you're dealing with now.  While dial bore gauges will give some additional information regarding wear and/or taper in the cylinders, they will add considerably to the tool costs if you cannot rent or borrow them.  And Dial bore gauges will still need a micrometer in which initially set up the dial bore gauge for measuring.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hi Ted,

I've done finemechanics as a study in the past. From this I still have some micrometers. Here in Holland we have something simular like ebay and found an old dial gauge. My bidding is now 25€ (approx 35$). I'll go further if i need to.

 

If I could have this gauge, then I can machine on a lathe at work some longer extensions. Then calibrate it and starr measuring.

But ofcourse in life always things go other than planned, I hope to get this set

Or I can ask my old teacher, he is very active in oldtimers as well.

Is a snap gauge a gauge with a go-nogo side?

Thanks for the tips.

Stephan

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54

I use snap gauges in many instances in lieu of using an inside micrometer.  They are also called telescoping gauges.   These are just spring loaded and can be tightened for a variety of internal drags with their handles.  Once an I.D. measurement has been taken, the snap gauge is measured with an outside micrometer for the actual measurement.  Here’s a picture of a set of snap or telescoping gauges.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

FYI: Beware! I purchased some cheap chinese snap gauges, and didn't notice that the bevel on the spring arm of one was way too flat for an accurate inside hole measurement re: to that gauge's designed range. Couldn't understand why my snap gauge/micrometer spec. didn't agree with the machinist's inside dial gauge, and assumed (to my eventual regret) that MY measurements, relative to other outside mic. specs. using the same tool were the correct ones. Live & learn.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Ok!

Now I understand. My first thougt was 2 parts which you can snap onto some venier calipers to extend them. Then I checked in wikipedia and saw this H shape caliber with a go and nogo side on it. I know several sites where I can buy equipment for f.i. lathes and milling machines. I've browsed them and saw the set you just showed.

The warning for chinese equipment makes it complete.

This is what I saw: http://www.buitelaar.nl/comasy/templates/product.aspx?contentid=237&productid=1894 (a lot of chines stuff, but bought few times and it's ok)

Only 15euro = 20$. The dial guige will cost me 50 euro including shipping and the snap guige of probably chinese quality will cost 22euro including shipping.

Whas makes sence? I'll check at work if we have a micrometer to measure the snap gauge.

Or I can use my digital calipers.

What is the best practice? Dial gauge or snap gauge?

Stephan

Edit: I found a ridge reamer just in case the measurements are ok and the ridge has to be removed: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KDT-2389/

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54

hi stephen, i'm also a newbie i've just finished a ground up resto on a 54 capri 2dr hard top and did a full recon on the 317 engine, I learn't that not much interchanges with a y block, the lifters are the same as the FE 332-390, oil pump interchanges as well, the dizzy interchanges with a small amount of work as posted, i bought most of my parts through KANTA and some through FALCON in the US i also bought a parts interchange book that covers all FORDS from 1950-65, I have the address if you need it as it covers most parts including mechanical and body and I bought a workshop manual from KANTA thats been invaluable, but i now see them advertised on ebay for sale, good luck PAUL FROM NEW ZEALAND

Hi Paul!!

We need to keep in touch!! Thanks for the part website suggestions. I'll have a look where I can find them. Must have serveral manuals, also probably a part interchange manual, but I don't understand the numbers. With the next post, I'll send some pages as pdf. But please send me the address.

I'ts a strange thing, it is surprizing me all the time. Here I'm posting a message from holland on an american forum and get feedback from New Zealand. I'll send you a pm.

Lately so moch occupied by work I can't proceed as quickly as I want. I've ordered a snap gauge and continue with the engine teardown.

Keep you informed.

Stephan

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54

Hi everybody!

It took time tome to continue in the lincoln y-block.

I've ordered a ridge reamer to take away the ridge, which enables me to take out the pistons.

Thanks to previous tips. I've ordered a set of thelescopic gauges and a large micrometer to measure the bores for ovality and taper.

The specs are in the pdf file I've attached to earlier posts.

I've never used a ridge reamer before and hope somebody can advice on the do's and don'ts.

Today I started with disassembly of the rockerarm assembly. All rockers and caps were frozen. No movement at all.



Took some time, wd40 and hammering with a rubber hammer to get the parts loosened from the shaft.

The picture is somehow distorted, but the shaft is straight.





All oilholes in rocker were blocked as well



Here is a result of lack of lubrication.

Does anyone know if I can reuse the shaft? I will post some dimensions next time of nominal diameter and worn diameter.



Well they told me to install the carter pan and put in the oil and the engine would run fine. The first result would be bent pushrods or bent valves.....

Well that's it for now.

I'm looking foreward to your replies and to my reamer (birthday present)

Stephan from the Netherlands (holland)

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54

Hi Stephan

Using a ridge remover can be hazardous if you are not careful

The biggest mistake people make when using these is to try and get all the ridge out.

Only remove the least amount you can to get the bore smooth again.

If you still have some ridge left on the opposite side of the cylinder you will have to remove this by hand using a tool such as a bearing scraper.

If you were to continue removing all the ridge with the ridge remover under the circumstances I just mentioned, you could damage the top area of the bore.

Also removing too much metal from the top of the bore can cause another condition where the top ring expands outward in it's groove at TDC to follow the bore and is exposed to excessive combustion temperature and gets damaged.

Cheers

Gary


Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

Gary,

This is a advice which is very helpfull for me. A dutch saying is:  A warned person, counts for two.

I'll check the bores in the top for roundness and will not go for the max. I can scrape off metal, but not scrape on metal.

I did not realise the ridge would be at the bottom end as well.

The reamer is arrived at the customs in the Netherlands and is sent on 22 august. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.

When the reamer is used. Is a cutting / tapping fluid used?

Regards,

Stephan

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54