As a newbie I would like to introduce myself. My name is Stephan and live in The Netherlands.

I found this forum specialized in Y-block and after searching the web I recognise a Y-block is a rare engine.

We ( my brother in law and me) onwn 2 lincoln capri coupés. The 54 coupe is in good shape ecxept the engine. When the engine is running and the car isn't moving a lot of carter fumes are being produced. So nasty that at a traffic light, your eyes start to irritate.

Looking at internet marketplaces we spotted a donor car, a 53 lincoln. The car rested in the nevada desert and the nature has done its work on it. Initially we bought the car as donor, but we are finishing this car as rat-look.

The idea is to use this engine which is in my garage now, for the 54 lincoln. The company which sold the donor car told me the engine was revised. But I have my doubts.

My wife and I own a 75 corvette stingray (www.stingray75.nl) where I've put on some edelbrock heads and a camshaft. So some experience is availlable for tearing appart the 53 engine. And I've attended a meeting where we dismantled a chevy engine and rebuild the engine again. I'm allso supported by several dvd's how to rebuild chevy engines.

But as a relative dummy I will make mistakes. That could be nasty and with some hints problems could be prevented. In worst case scenario the block is permanently damaged and all affort is lost.

I want to use this topic to post continuous information of what I've done and what I'm going to do. I hope you would like to follow this topic and hopefully provide your best practices.

The first step ot today is putting the engine in my new 1500lbs engine stand, but the stand is suffering under this extreme weight.

The next thing is to take off the intake manifold and the heads. This will relief the engine stand somewhat.

Regards,

Stephan

Regards,

Stephan

On the Passenger car Y the timing marks are not lined up like on a Chevy. They are set 12 (I think) chain pins apart, one of the early Y do it your self books got this wrong and isued a correction sheet.

Not sure if the Lincoln Y uses the same 12 pin offset but it's better to find out now.

Good luck with our project

That's one thing I'll check for sure. Before disassembling I'll take many pictures. My memory is not so well and this chore can last a long time.

With the first lincoln we got some manuals. I'll better start reading all topics about the block.

You are right about the chevy blocks.

I don't know if there are similarities with the ford y-block so I'll post some pictures

When the head is disassebbled I'll be able to see the numbers better. I don't know what the similarities are with the ford y heads.

20 years of nevada desert will leave no liquid oil residue as you can see.

The plan is to send the heads to a refurbishing company who will insert hardened valve seats, so we can skip the lead additive.

Keep you updated

The heads are casting number EAD. As you disassembly the engine you will find that nearly all of the parts with numbers are marked EAD. The 341 cu in version of the engine is EBJ and the 368 version is ECU. Most of the parts will interchange between these engines. Very little is the same as the Ford Y-Block.

Have fun and good luck with yout project.

John, my lincoln eng is ECT-S which i believe is 332 ci.

As soon as I disassemble the heads the numbers and prefixes are more readable. At the moment part of the numbers are blocked by parts. I'm eager to know what type of heads are in this 317 block. Maybe it is a special. But maybe it is whisfull thinking.

Today I got one hour to spend on the engine. Here are my findings(and questions):

Today I took off the waterpump. I read on one homepage that only the waterpump and distributor is compatible with the ford y block.

I saw on one rocker shaft some stack of whashers. Could be a too long bolt or something else...

The intake manifold is taken off.

Here is a picture of the oil galley. It is a strange pushrod? Rebuilt???.

I noticed the valves were not pressed in in any way. Then I found out that allmost all pushrods could be rotated by my fingers. Then I found out I could push in the pushrods into the lifters, so this means oil pressurized lifters in 1953 and no oil left in the block. This explains the not pushed in(operated) valves.

Not much force required though to push the rod into the lifters. While rotating the pushrods I found 3 bent pushrods.

Where can I find some new parts? Or should I try to straighten the pushrods?

This element was found in the exhaust. Every restiction is loss of power in my opinion. This part is on the left side of the engine when facing the engine. What is the purpose of this thing. Should I remove it? It must be there for one reason?

Next things are:

Taking off the pushrods and heads.

Each rod will be allocated where its original position was. Are there more important points to take care of?

I'll screw loose the heads in incremental steps, just inverse of the method how you torque the heads during assembly.

I wander if I could reuse the gasket.

I'll continue after your feedback.

Regards,

stephan

You are right and I am wrong. Here is the website: http://www.ford-y-block.com/lincoln.htm.

Good information about the gear.

Today no time to work on the engine. Todays a annual corvette meeting  ( http://www.corvette-fame.com/) we can also go with the lincoln.

Greetings

I've come a little bit further with taking the engine apart. I've found an old manual of my '54 lincoln and scanned some pages concerning the engine. For who could use it as well : http://www.stingray75.nl/lincoln/lincoln_stephan.pdf

Today one rocker assembly is removed and one head is removed. I still have to make pictures which will posted soon.

My first 'diagnosis' is quite some ridge in the cylinders made by the piston rings. I don't know if it is severe, but pictures will tell more.

well there is more to come soon...

Regards,

Stephan

Current EBAY listing. No guarentee but? Chuck in NH

@ Paul,

Thanks for the advice. I'll contact them and see what is possible to the Netherlands or maybe it is digital.

@ Moonshadow

This could be an option when everything goes wrong. For me it is more fun to do it myself. Learn by doing. And hopefully with your support, because its a firsttimer.

In the meantime I have some information on progress and findings:

I loosened the screws for the adjustment of each rocker and removed the whole rocker arm assembly.

Here is a picture of the valve tip which has no equal surface. I don't know if this is bad.

I'm thinking of bringing the heads to a revising company who can place hardened seats as well to eliminate leaded fuel.

The heads are loosened in incrementals steps, inverse to the normal torque procedure. The head numbers is EAD60850 or EAD6085C. Further L102 is described (julian date?). So John Mummert hit the nail on the head with EAD

As you see, long time no use. I'll put wd40 on it tomorrow

Here is the headless engine.

There were quite some particles fallen into each cylinder. The block has never run after the sellers 'engine revision' .

The message was: Just put under the oil carter and put in some oil and it's ready to go...

I noticed a ridge where the piston rings came to the top dead center.

I can feel it very clearly with my nail. Is this severe? Could this be solved with honing? Send it for overboring?

I'm good in mm, but suck in reading inches what is the bore??

Is it original or overbored.

Good news is that it contains new lifters! This means I have to run them in at the first engine start. I've still got some edelbrock pre-lube red stuff of the corvette.

Bad thing is probably the endtip of the pushrods. The left one is representative for must of them. The left one has more contact surface and the right one is running on the edges.

This means I'll have to find probably new ones or some replacements.

This weekend I'll remove the lifters. Has no need to stack them in order because they are new.

When the lifter is removed I can check which pushrod end fits the best.

In the next days the rocker assembly will be taken apart. Today I've tried some de-greaser to remove the cooked sludge, bust no success. Next step is fuel and a brass brush.

Well that is it for now. I tried to rotate the engine in the stand and it works. With the heads on, this was not possible

Keep you informed and am curious to your replies!

Regards,

Stephan

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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=G-engineparts

You should probably check out the entire engine. It seems that the last rebuild may have been done on the cheap. The rods and crank should be checked for clearence and fit. Chuck

So it isn't looking that bad. I've checked out the website and the availability of parts is huge.

I'll go for new ones, but first wait until I've got a complete ordering list. The whole engine will be taken apart. They told me they changed some bearings as well. I could check everything with plasticgauge.

I know they measure the bores with a special device with a dial on it. I'll check where I can buy/borrow one. Up to now I only have venier calipers.

So to your opinion the cylinders are not overbored?

My goal is to make a decent engine which seals well to prevent carterfumes and have better milage (here a gallon is approx 10$) This engine we will put into the 54 lincoln and this engine which comes out is realy wore down.

Regards,

Stephan

Stephan.  A set of micrometers and snap gauges will go a long way in measuring some of your critical bore and journal measurements.  They will also verify exactly what bore size you're dealing with now.  While dial bore gauges will give some additional information regarding wear and/or taper in the cylinders, they will add considerably to the tool costs if you cannot rent or borrow them.  And Dial bore gauges will still need a micrometer in which initially set up the dial bore gauge for measuring.

I've done finemechanics as a study in the past. From this I still have some micrometers. Here in Holland we have something simular like ebay and found an old dial gauge. My bidding is now 25€ (approx 35$). I'll go further if i need to.

If I could have this gauge, then I can machine on a lathe at work some longer extensions. Then calibrate it and starr measuring.

But ofcourse in life always things go other than planned, I hope to get this set

Or I can ask my old teacher, he is very active in oldtimers as well.

Is a snap gauge a gauge with a go-nogo side?

Thanks for the tips.

Stephan

Now I understand. My first thougt was 2 parts which you can snap onto some venier calipers to extend them. Then I checked in wikipedia and saw this H shape caliber with a go and nogo side on it. I know several sites where I can buy equipment for f.i. lathes and milling machines. I've browsed them and saw the set you just showed.

The warning for chinese equipment makes it complete.

This is what I saw: http://www.buitelaar.nl/comasy/templates/product.aspx?contentid=237&productid=1894 (a lot of chines stuff, but bought few times and it's ok)

Only 15euro = 20$. The dial guige will cost me 50 euro including shipping and the snap guige of probably chinese quality will cost 22euro including shipping.

Whas makes sence? I'll check at work if we have a micrometer to measure the snap gauge.

Or I can use my digital calipers.

What is the best practice? Dial gauge or snap gauge?

Stephan

Edit: I found a ridge reamer just in case the measurements are ok and the ridge has to be removed: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KDT-2389/

We need to keep in touch!! Thanks for the part website suggestions. I'll have a look where I can find them. Must have serveral manuals, also probably a part interchange manual, but I don't understand the numbers. With the next post, I'll send some pages as pdf. But please send me the address.

I'ts a strange thing, it is surprizing me all the time. Here I'm posting a message from holland on an american forum and get feedback from New Zealand. I'll send you a pm.

Lately so moch occupied by work I can't proceed as quickly as I want. I've ordered a snap gauge and continue with the engine teardown.

Keep you informed.

Stephan

This is a advice which is very helpfull for me. A dutch saying is:  A warned person, counts for two.

I'll check the bores in the top for roundness and will not go for the max. I can scrape off metal, but not scrape on metal.

I did not realise the ridge would be at the bottom end as well.

The reamer is arrived at the customs in the Netherlands and is sent on 22 august. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.

When the reamer is used. Is a cutting / tapping fluid used?

Regards,

Stephan

If your shopping in Roermond, than we can make an appointment. My house (limburg) is 40 km away from Roermond. Last meeting was Grefrath. We went there with the corvette and the lincoln. It was the only capri. They are rare indeed.

I've put in some digital gauges in the corvette as well. I've added a A/F monitor. This makes tuning the carb a lot easier.

I see you want a as clean as possible engine. Our 54 has a electric fuel pump, but this is visible, but this doesn't bother me. Keep in mind that you car is probably 6v. I don't know from what year the transition is done to 12V. If your car is 6V this means your gauges and other instruments are 6v as well (windows and seat motors).

If you want some more power a better exhaust manifold would probably help. Especially at higher rpms.

Alternators kan be changed to keep the orignal housing but transformed to 12V.

Our engine will remain unchanged for now. I'll use the original carb and I have no idea if this one is still functional. The intake manifold will be original as well. The replacements are probably not on the shelf at edelbrock or equal.

Well, looking foreward to your reply.

Anyway I'm still waiting for my reamer. It is waiting at the customs in the Netherlands since august 30th

Regards /Grussen

Stephan

Next opportunity to meet would be in Nederweert (NL) next weekend if I'm not mistaking.

I've replaced one manifold in the white 54 capri with the one of the 53 capri. I'm thinking of making one set myself. One friend or mine works at a laser cutting machine. In autocad I can draw a continuous plate which is bolted onto the head. The rest will be tube and welding bends, or square tubing to keep more or less the original appearance. I only have a mig aparatus.

Your window wipers are vacuum operated, but I doubt if they work. On the white capri they stop on the window screen in the upright position and stay there...... Make high rpm and close the trottle so the manifold vacuum is the highest. This does the trick to make them go home sometimes. One of the things which needs to be done.

I'm looking for a good way to upgrade the voltage and to reduce it for the intrumental cluster and all electric parts. The starter, ignition will be 12v and this way it can be jumpstarted if needed. The alternator need to be changed as well of course.

Why not use the old alternator and have it modified? maybe it only needs a different voltage regulator. The alternator and starter motor use carbon brushes.

I'm seeking a way of voltage reduction without transforming the other 6v into heat by a resistor.

Somehow we ended up on the same forum in the usa and working on the same things and living mabe a couple of hours away.

Oh if you need a classic look on your wires, I can overbraid them with kevlar at my work.

In the meantime I received my ridge reamer. A well designed tool I must say. I've removed one ridge to satisfy my curiosity and it worked fine. The removed ridge is a bit rough.

Now I'm in Germany for my work (Landshut) and will do the rest next weekend hopefully. This time with some cutting fluid and the bore tilted in a horizontal position to prevent the scraping falling into the bore on top of the postion.

Nasty habbit of mine to make mistakes.

Maybe a meet next weekend??

Regards,

Stephan

It is time to bring this topic alive again. And the main reason is that I had some time again to do some work.

In the summer I've reamed the ridges and this worked quite well.

Here is the reamer. Look on youtube how to use it, but use common sence.

Yesterday I took the pistons out.

The pistons and the block have plenty of carbon deposit and sludge. I'm looking for a way to remove it.

Anyone some good ideas? On the web I've found sea foam, but this is more likely to be used in a running engine.

Here is a detail if the piston. The original grooves are still visible.

To my opinion the pistons are re-usable.

Next job is to take out all oil galley plugs and to clean each oil passage with a metal brush. Next is the measurements of the bores.

Keep you updated.

Stephan