I know this is 10 years old but I just wanted to say thanks for this great thread. I'm sure someone else could use it also.

Thanks again for the support guys. I still look up to a lot of you for the information you guys know and are willing to give out! I just thought take some pics of what you told me to do!

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

Wow!  I'll go along with the others, Nice job and great documentation.  Do send it to Bruce, you'll get your Mag quicker also if he publishes your article.

Also the port and pocket work looks very good.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Bruce Young

PO Box 1005

Ottawa, IL 61350

email: yblockmag@yahoo.com

HM phone (815) 433-1393 (07:30-08:00, Sat 08:00-09:00)

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

How do I send it to him/contact him?

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

Good job dawg and great tech. Write it up and send it to Bruce Young, he is always looking for good tech stuff to publish and it will help those Y blockers that don't visit the site but get Y Block Magazine.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

 

DAWG, you asked the questions like many but had the enthusiam to have an educated go at doing it, and also the goodness to help educate others, like ted and others said, Good job!

 

yyy

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I'll second that. Doesn't get much better.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks for taking the time to document this as a step by step procedure.  Great ‘post’ and good information.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Next I enlarged the hole to 3/8 of an inch to prep it for the tap.  I wanted to tap it to 7/16th's:

In this next picture you can see to the right of the drill bit the outer edge of the intake runner.  The cause of all my anxiety!!!!  On the first post I drilled a little too close and had to grind the threads off the all-thread rod to get it past the runner.  From then on I added shims to offset the angle OUT from this edge and never had any trouble again:

It has also been suggested (and I did this) to bring the drill to the floor of the water chamber and "kiss" the surface to prep it for the bolt.  A better "landing" surface for the new post.  Next came the tap.  Again, I chose to use a 7/16th's tap.  But John has also said that a 1/2" will also work. 

Then I screwed in the all-thread rod to see how it came out with clearances and what not.  I went in like a charm was almost perfectly aligned with where I wanted it to be.

Because the post was a little close to the intake runner I ground off the bottom threads.  and cut it to be drilled in the whole. It looked like this right before I JB Welded it in the whole. 

With a cut-off wheel I cut a grooved into the top of the all thread rod so that I could then screw it in with a straight edge screw driver.  I mixed my JB Weld, smeared it around the top where it would adhere to the rocker stand.  Put a healthy little dab on the bottom to fuse with the bottom of the chamber. And presto!  There she goes!

The final touch was to wait 10 minutes or so for the JB weld to harden, and cut off the top.  I carefully cleaned up the top of the rocker stand.  And now I have posted heads!

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie