Any direction technically works but 90° to the right (looking from the front) is likely best.


0.030”-0.040” deep 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks alot Ted, that really helped out alot :-)

Just to be clear, the slot in the trust plate will be pointing about 90 degree to the right (seen from the front of the engine)? Right ?

How deep is the slot, in the trust plate, at the edge of the plate ?

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/

rotela t is a big mistake. not to be used  on flat tapes engines

See if these two pictures help.  The first picture shows the additional hole drilled into the block that intersects the oil gallery.  That hole is larger at the surface and then much smaller where it breaks into the vertical oil galley.  The second picture shows the thrust plate with the groove that redirects the oil flow so it’s sideways and thrown towards the chain.

 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I would really like to see the pictures Tim has shared on this thread. However they seems to have gone missing? Anyone that have saved them?
Thanks in advance 
Jimmy

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/

like your post. i just got my 292 back from machinist. he recomended .oo2 cl on.040 pistons with moly rings. I decided to stay with the stock style chain, mainly because when I was 18 my first car 55meteor (can.ford with 272) never changed gears till valve float, at 80000 miles did a 2nd valve st, the engine was spotles in side, chain was not bad and it burned little oil. tho as i was mechanics helper had axcess to shop at nights and changed oil and filter every 1000 miles (as it was free) the oil in the camp was 10/30 series 1 oil used in all gas and deisel engines. you should reconsider the rotela t oil as it is designed strictly for diesel engines and low sulphur fuel. the sludged up engines in pictures are signs of extremley poor servicing. these conditions would not exist with 10/30 prem. motor oil serviced at proper intervals re use, and of course the engine breather as well. i sent the rod reverend some 30 pages of research on engine oils . there have been other posts on oils here. rotela t has far less ability to high loads than most standerd gas engine oils, and like i mentioned on prev. post it was marked at 1 time diesel engines only, and do not use on flat tappet cams.

mctim64 (4/10/2009)

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Also, here are the pics of the oil hole I drill in the front to lube the chain. I would have had it sooner but all the engines I have out in the garage are closed up and I hadn't taken any picture of this mod before.

Tim.  Thanks for sharing the pics of the oil hole behind the thrust plate.  Another great alternative and adds to the list of options for oil mods.  I agree with Tim in that the directing oil channel can go either in the block or in the rear of the thrust plate and be equally effective.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Dave - I don't have this style of PCV set-up installed on my engine - mine has an adapter to the road draft tube port at the left rear of the T-bird valley cover. What it takes is a PCV that has 1/4 pipe threads on the "unchecked" (engine) side of the valve (poor choice of words.......). The Ford part (I believe) has the pipe threads on the suction side and usually screws into the spacer under the carb(?). 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Yes, I do think that would work just as well. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Steve,

What threaded pcv valve do you use?

Butch Lawson

Manchester,  TN