Not as simple as it looks and involves some initial investment to make it happen.  If it’s not being driven from a passion standpoint, then in many instances the payback is not justifiable.  These belts are designed to run dry and not exposed to oil.  This simply takes some special considerations to design a system for the Y that allows it to sit on the outside of the engine.  And a water pump still needs to be bolted up to it.  Doable but it’s one of those items that’s not justified in a majority of applications.  It would likely need to look like this one for a small block Ford when it’s all said and done.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

speedpro56 (4/6/2009)

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My rollmaster chains are oiled this way. Place the cam sprocket in place, there's an oil galley between the crank and cam. On the oil galley mark the spot with a magic marker put a dot where the  cam sprocket teeth are. That's where you drill an approx .030 hole for oil to spray onto the sprocket teeth to oil the chain. I did away with the overflow tubes too pressurized the rockers and have no more galled shafts. I also use a restricter in place to restrict the oil to the rockers.

You are not alone, this is what I've been doing to get oil to the timing set after pressurizing the rockershafts. I drill the hole behind the cam thrust plate and cut a small trench downward so the oil runs down to the spade and onto the crank gear though, instead of spraying it on.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

mctim64 (4/6/2009)

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You are not alone,... I drill the hole behind the cam thrust plate and cut a small trench downward so the oil runs down to the spade and onto the crank gear though, instead of spraying it on.

Amazing ways, all of them.  Tim McMaster, do you have a picture?
Ted showed a sheet metal detail I don't have on my '59 292.  After studying the oiling system, it would be a miracle if that little trough worked without your pressurized oil supply hole.
I look at my block's drain holes for witness marks, clean paths where oil flowed.  I don't really see much hope with the stock system:

This engine is sitting on a pallet (that's how it came off the truck).  It is filthy, but shows how bad the oil system had been over its life.  If the block tips down in the back, NO oil will ever get to the chain, which is what happened.

I understand in the old days, extermal oiling kits were sold for Y-Blocks with plumbing running all over this engine from the oil pump.  They drilled holes in the rocker covers for oil tubes.  Hey, whatever it takes...

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I don't know the history of this engine, in fact I only bought it because it was attached to a Cruise-o-Matic.  (My wife asked me to turn our '59 Galaxie into an automatic for her.) Bought the whole setup from a guy in Mass., and this is what I got.

Without question, it's the dirtiest engine I ever worked.  You are right, PF.  The crud wasn't tar-like, it was baked-on dirt.  Even the crankshaft balance holes were HEAVILLY packed with dirt.  Took me a long time to clean everything properly.

I am amazed with the transformation of this engine.  The block is bored and honed to 3.800" (which is +.060"), but the machine shop 'head' man was ill today.  The block is better than new, because it's machined and seasoned.

When it goes back together, I will install positive crankcase ventilation.  Right now, I have questions for Ted Eaton regarding my Fel Pro neoprene rear main seal.  Loved your balance articles, Ted.  I was looking for the part about shaving the rod-tops to compensate for new larger pistons.   I love McTim's method of oiling the timing chain by drilling a hole in an oil galley (I'd love to see a pic of that).  Tim's video convinced me, so I pressurized the rocker shafts.  I would also like to use the 'oversized' 180* thermostat.  This engine will be oiled using Rotella-T 15W-40.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Incidentally, 3.800 is .050 over, not .060.  There is a Dave Dare that posts on the model T site.  Is that you?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I'll post a picture later today. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I had the pistons (and rings) in my hand yesterday.  They are marked "+.060" on the Sealed Power pistons (and +.060" on the Hastings moly rings).  I may have misread, "3.800" on the pistons box.  You're right, that doesn't add up.  The machinist that bored the block said the only place he could find piston-to-bore spec's was in an old Edsel book he had from the '60's.  He maintained .002" clearance, and said the piston set sizes were all the same (thank God).  Thanks, John (for bringing that to my attention).  I will go back today and re-check, along with my heads which should be done today.  - Dave

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected