I would go ahead and put a baffle on. It won't hurt and it will save having to remove the pan later if you find that one is required. Get a small sheet of aluminum from Home depot. It can be shaped with the help of a vise. Epoxy or weld it under the hole in the valley pan. It doesn't have to be too fancy. Just make sure oil will not have a direct path to the hole. If you decide to retain your road draft tube, you will also have to add a provision for fastening it to the valley pan - in this case, I would recommend welding.


Lawrenceville, GA

Is a baffle is needed on the aluminum pan if I opt not for a PCV valve?  Mine has a canister and down tube on the drivers side of the block and not a road draft tube.  Does anybody know if a cover is availale so I could convert over to a PCV valve and get rid of the canister and down tube?

Warsaw, IN

P.S.  As you may be able to see in the picture, I had to notch the top of the generator bracket for the bottom of the electric motor inorder to use the Moroso bracket "as is".  If you wanted to keep the generator bracket in tact, you would have to modify the Moroso bracket to raise the electric motor a couple of inches. 

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

Charlie,

In reply to your question of using existing bolt holes in the bracket, yes, I did.  It was an easy fabrication to mount it to the right two side bolts in the timing cover.  I did need to use longer bolts and space it out for alignment with the Moroso water pump pulley.  It would appear that there would be and interference between the bracket and motor with the stock water pump pulley.  Perhaps you could install and remove the whole Moroso unit before and after a race.  It wouldn't be that much trouble.  

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

I had not noticed it. I'm always staring at your blower. I'll check my pictures. It must be in some of the shots.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie:

I don't know if you noticed my setup at EXPO.  I use a heater blower motor with a pulley added to drive the original water pump pulley and fan.  Controlled by a thermostatic switch.  Keeps the Hurricane cool and cools it between rounds, but the downside is current draw, about 10 amps.  After two days of racing and engine cooling, I ran the battery down Sunday morning.  Should have charged the battery overnight, but I thought the alternator would do the job.  I have to think that at speed with ram air coming through the radiator, the fan speeds the water pump up and I get more circulation.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Cool! I may just add one when I make the new wire harness early next year. Were you able to use the predrilled holes in the bracket or did you have to add one? I notice that they want two bolts for mounting in the instructions.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie Mc,

I agree with everything Ted has mentioned.  I use an electric Moroso belt drive to run the water pump on the race truck.  I have never been sure of the flow numbers vs. stock fan belt, but in two years in high temp tracks (Bonneville and El Mirage) I have never over heated.  Like he says, besides the horsepower gain, allowing the engine to cool down faster after turning off the ignition is what works best for me.  Can you imagine what would happen if the engine was close to the boiling point when I turned the engine off and had the conventional system?  It would be boiling in no time.  By the way, I also use an electric fan to move air across the radiator during the cool down.

I like your idea of having the system available for weekend drag racing.  With the electric motor in place, a simple swap of the fan, fan belt and pulley to a Moroso belt drive gear on the water pump shaft and you are off to the staging lanes.  This would help solve a problem I saw at the Y-Block shootout.  When competitors were in both the Y-Block and regular bracket racing,  they were going around so fast it was difficult to get the engine cooled down enough to start the next race.  This is a small factor in Harry's and Ted's success, but it does give them a competitive edge to run consistent dial-ins.

BFOOTER3, sorry for getting off the trail of your post, sometimes it is just too tempting

This site just keeps getting better and better.................

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)







BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

Oh, I didn't realize that is a moroso part. I thought it was something he put together. Hmmm.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie refers to the Moroso electric drive that runs a belt from an electric motor to a pulley attached to the factory water pump.  It’s simple and has been around for years for the race crowd and is a proven piece.  The water flow is somewhat limited due to the speed of the electric drive but is sufficient for a race car.  I’ve one of these setups on my ’64 Thunderbolt and has worked well for over twenty five years on that particular application.  Best part is the cooling ability after the engine has been shut down.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)