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DANIEL TINDER
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Sorry, working from a tablet and don’t know how to post links or photos.
Makes sense that with the type of hydraulic bearing that’s designed to spin constantly, the only ‘air gap’ measurement would be at the disk.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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KULTULZ
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"The impression I get, is that a precision air gap is only important with hydraulic diaphragm units (I’m assuming the vintage mechanical throw-out mechanism has a wider/more flexible operation/adjustment window?) Also, some FoMoCo diaphragm clutches apparently are designed so that the T.O. bearing is continuously in contact (spinning) with the P.P. fingers (thus no air gap?)" Back in the day when I was a sinner (worked on GM and MOPAR), the GM diaphragm clutch was adjusted by fully depressing the clutch pedal and measuring the air gap between the flywheel and disc. Maybe the same? Can you post the source of the directions sheet? As for release bearing pressure and the bearing riding against the fingers, I would think not. Either a burnt bearing or if too tight to the fingers a slipping clutch.
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DANIEL TINDER
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miker (6/9/2026)
Been a long time. For torque I would have used either the flywheel literature (or called) or the stock spec. Never recall using loctite on those. Never had one come loose. UPDATE: Turned out to be a complex issue. I settled for a compromise (28 ft. lbs.) between the max. torque warnings re: aluminum thread damage, and the higher Loc-Tite spec. recommended by ARP.
BTW: Still learning about clutches: The difference between ‘air gap’ & ‘free play’ still a bit confusing. The impression I get, is that a precision air gap is only important with hydraulic diaphragm units (I’m assuming the vintage mechanical throw-out mechanism has a wider/more flexible operation/adjustment window?) Also, some FoMoCo diaphragm clutches apparently are designed so that the T.O. bearing is continuously in contact (spinning) with the P.P. fingers (thus no air gap?). I have to wonder if the 50s OEM bearing would wear out quickly in that case, even though most severe wear occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (?)
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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miker
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Been a long time. For torque I would have used either the flywheel literature (or called) or the stock spec. Never recall using loctite on those. Never had one come loose.
miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
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DANIEL TINDER
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miker (6/8/2026)
I’m kind of late to the discussion, but I’ve been running aluminum or lightened flywheels since about 1968. Both birds, and the F code clone in my 32. All in smaller lighter cars, variety of makes. Some over 400 cid. I’m not a drag racer and starting on a hill has never been much of a problem. I use them because I like the quicker change in rpm for shifting. In the last 30 years or so all Centerforce diaphragm clutches. Do you remember the pressure plate-to-flywheel torque you used for the aluminum FW?
Also, I have a set of ARP bolts, and wonder if I should bother buying ARP’s special lube? Blue or red Loc-Tite? (PP under constant tension is unlikely to loosen?)
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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miker
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I’m kind of late to the discussion, but I’ve been running aluminum or lightened flywheels since about 1968. Both birds, and the F code clone in my 32. All in smaller lighter cars, variety of makes. Some over 400 cid. I’m not a drag racer and starting on a hill has never been much of a problem. I use them because I like the quicker change in rpm for shifting. In the last 30 years or so all Centerforce diaphragm clutches.
miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
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DANIEL TINDER
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Joe-JDC (6/6/2026)
I am using the '55 Thunderbird clutch linkage and arm exactly as it was before I installed the T-5 and diaphram clutch. Works just fine after I was able to double nut the adjusting rod so that it does not back off adjustment. Joe-JDC Thanks Joe,
I assumed some sort of linkage adjustment/alteration would be needed. Here’s hoping it will continue to work ok. My concern was eventual finger or bearing face damage. I think the flat-faced bearings designed to be used with that type pressure plate may have some type of special coating (?). The grade of steel used in an OEM unit bearing face may not hold up. But, like with the aluminum flywheel, I may be trading longevity and drivability for a few cheap thrills 😎. Satisfying curiosity seems more attractive these days, than saving the next owner grief down the road.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Joe-JDC
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I am using the '55 Thunderbird clutch linkage and arm exactly as it was before I installed the T-5 and diaphram clutch. Works just fine after I was able to double nut the adjusting rod so that it does not back off adjustment. Joe-JDC
JDC
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DANIEL TINDER
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Litshoot (6/3/2026)
Daniel, are you using a reduce diameter clutch. 38mm face for 5.5, 42-50 for 7.25 and 8.5. Tilton sells 62-063 for ford. you should double check but i believe it works with our arm. as for st 246 from Tilton instructions: RELEASE (THROW OUT) BEARING Type and Size: This clutch is designed to be used with a flat-face release bearing. The outside diameter of the bearing face should not exceed 3.250”. having reduced diameter and rounded face give you more clutch control and lighter activation. i went with quarter master tl2 hrb for mine and with a bit of back and forth got the correct release bearing. quartermaster has more options available, but you need to contact customer service or dig through catalogs to find specs. i went deep down this rabbit hole and will have a running car within a month hopefully to find out how screwed i am. i went with rally clutch for better heat dissipation. depending how it is i might try it as single disc with spacer, or sending out pressure plate to have different spring installed. lastly if going lighter on rotating weight vehicle weight, torque, and gearing will make a big difference in drive ability. the lighter the car, the more torque it has, and higher starting line ratio make it easier to leave from a stop. Seth Clutch is correct diameter (J. Mummert supplied it). Might try to track down the manufacturer to check bearing match recs., but after 16+ yrs., not optimistic.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Litshoot
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In my defense i am completely aware. i know its stupid, and its not even its full form yet. ideally id love to have this running with mechanical injection and a blower. im looking for smiles per gallon, even if its a headache.
Seth
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