|
Author
|
Message
|
|
Litshoot
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 days ago
Posts: 75,
Visits: 731
|
Daniel, i believe the 2 nuts you mention is what joes referring to, adding if you didnt already have 2. The pedal stop isn't needed if you're using the factory linkage, the limit is built into it. Hydraulic release bearings without a stop can put too much force against the clutch and wear out the thrust bearing on the crankshaft causing excessive endplay leading to a variety of other issues potentially fun faults.
Seth
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
Joe-JDC (6/6/2026)
I am using the '55 Thunderbird clutch linkage and arm exactly as it was before I installed the T-5 and diaphram clutch. Works just fine after I was able to double nut the adjusting rod so that it does not back off adjustment. Joe-JDC Joe, Im confused by your remark: (“double nut the adjusting rod”), as the OEM rod assembly already includes an adjusting nut AND a locknut. Were you implying a 3rd nut was required (maybe to keep the rod attached to the fork?). Please explain.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
Joe-JDC (6/6/2026)
I am using the '55 Thunderbird clutch linkage and arm exactly as it was before I installed the T-5 and diaphram clutch. Works just fine after I was able to double nut the adjusting rod so that it does not back off adjustment. Joe-JDC No, since JOE-JDC (see above quote) was able to successfully use the stock throw-out setup with a diaphragm clutch, I decided that would be simplest. Since most all my (limited) future driving will be rural/highway, any wear issue with the OEM replacement bearing would be a minor concern, especially as the OD trans requires less shifting.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
KULTULZ
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 2.0K,
Visits: 306.7K
|
OK, I am cornfused ... Clutch fork? I thought the throw-out bearing design you have is self initiated, i.e. mounted on the trans bearing retainer and not requiring an external slave cylinder, the hydraulics being contained in the bearing assy itself. Are you using a fully hydraulic bearing or a fork and external slave cylinder design? Can you show a photo of the parts and the name of the manufacturers? When I was young, a diaphragm clutch would like to stay released (collapsed) at HI-RPM. BORG and BECK (three finger) was the standard, for FOMOCO anyways OLD FART here trying to catch up on later tech.
____________________________
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
miker (6/8/2026)
I’m kind of late to the discussion, but I’ve been running aluminum or lightened flywheels since about 1968. Both birds, and the F code clone in my 32. All in smaller lighter cars, variety of makes. Some over 400 cid. I’m not a drag racer and starting on a hill has never been much of a problem. I use them because I like the quicker change in rpm for shifting. In the last 30 years or so all Centerforce diaphragm clutches. Older local mechanic yesterday giving me a lot of warnings re: the alum. flywheel & diaphragm clutch. Flywheel issue is obvious, but he claims the clutch fork travel is a problem (?). As far as I can tell, the diaphragm fingers are the same distance from the flywheel face as the stock assembly, so the issue would have to be travel distance to release the disk. Guess I’ll find out once the new motor is installed and bolted up, and I start adjusting the free travel & airspace. While the guy IS experienced, I’m tempted to take his warnings with a ‘grain of salt’, as he is another of those people who never let you finish a sentence, none of which I’ve ever found overly bright (though admittedly not uncommon amongst those pressed for time).
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
Sorry, working from a tablet and don’t know how to post links or photos.
Makes sense that with the type of hydraulic bearing that’s designed to spin constantly, the only ‘air gap’ measurement would be at the disk.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
KULTULZ
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 2.0K,
Visits: 306.7K
|
"The impression I get, is that a precision air gap is only important with hydraulic diaphragm units (I’m assuming the vintage mechanical throw-out mechanism has a wider/more flexible operation/adjustment window?) Also, some FoMoCo diaphragm clutches apparently are designed so that the T.O. bearing is continuously in contact (spinning) with the P.P. fingers (thus no air gap?)" Back in the day when I was a sinner (worked on GM and MOPAR), the GM diaphragm clutch was adjusted by fully depressing the clutch pedal and measuring the air gap between the flywheel and disc. Maybe the same? Can you post the source of the directions sheet? As for release bearing pressure and the bearing riding against the fingers, I would think not. Either a burnt bearing or if too tight to the fingers a slipping clutch.
____________________________
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
miker (6/9/2026)
Been a long time. For torque I would have used either the flywheel literature (or called) or the stock spec. Never recall using loctite on those. Never had one come loose. UPDATE: Turned out to be a complex issue. I settled for a compromise (28 ft. lbs.) between the max. torque warnings re: aluminum thread damage, and the higher Loc-Tite spec. recommended by ARP.
BTW: Still learning about clutches: The difference between ‘air gap’ & ‘free play’ still a bit confusing. The impression I get, is that a precision air gap is only important with hydraulic diaphragm units (I’m assuming the vintage mechanical throw-out mechanism has a wider/more flexible operation/adjustment window?) Also, some FoMoCo diaphragm clutches apparently are designed so that the T.O. bearing is continuously in contact (spinning) with the P.P. fingers (thus no air gap?). I have to wonder if the 50s OEM bearing would wear out quickly in that case, even though most severe wear occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (?)
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
miker
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
Posts: 1.9K,
Visits: 195.0K
|
Been a long time. For torque I would have used either the flywheel literature (or called) or the stock spec. Never recall using loctite on those. Never had one come loose.
miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 15 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 154.7K
|
miker (6/8/2026)
I’m kind of late to the discussion, but I’ve been running aluminum or lightened flywheels since about 1968. Both birds, and the F code clone in my 32. All in smaller lighter cars, variety of makes. Some over 400 cid. I’m not a drag racer and starting on a hill has never been much of a problem. I use them because I like the quicker change in rpm for shifting. In the last 30 years or so all Centerforce diaphragm clutches. Do you remember the pressure plate-to-flywheel torque you used for the aluminum FW?
Also, I have a set of ARP bolts, and wonder if I should bother buying ARP’s special lube? Blue or red Loc-Tite? (PP under constant tension is unlikely to loosen?)
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|