____________________________

Sorry.  I just thought my previous explanations were clear, and merely assumed you had overlooked.
Even if the OEM fork/bearing would seem to fit the concentric unit, I would hate to have to change the clutch again should the pedal effort/etc. prove to be unmanageable.  

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

You're OK ...

The CSC is the actual throw-out bearing. It is just activated (extends) by internal hydraulic pressure instead of a hydraulic slave cylinder and/or a mechanical clutch fork.

I was just curious to see if kit makers were making available kits for older applications.

____________________________

Diaphragm springs have a lighter pedal feel than long style and multiple discs allows lower spring pressures for the same clamping force. unless the clutch is rated for way beyond your power level it should be lighter. Im doing something similar but in the stupid direction of going with smaller diameter single or double disc. 
Seth

Online research indicates that my OEM release bearing will not successfully operate a concentric diaphragm pressure plate. Investigating now if a conversion part exists that would allow retaining the OEM fork mechanism. Otherwise, the modern unit goes on sale.
P.S. Turns out, I only have a single disc. It just looks like two stacked together (my bad 😙).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel,
 are you using a reduce diameter clutch. 38mm face for 5.5, 42-50 for 7.25 and 8.5. Tilton sells 62-063 for ford. you should double check but i believe it works with our arm. as for st 246 from Tilton instructions: RELEASE (THROW OUT) BEARING Type and Size: This clutch is designed to be used with a flat-face release bearing. The outside diameter of the bearing face should not exceed 3.250”. having reduced diameter and rounded face give you more clutch control and lighter activation. i went with quarter master tl2 hrb for mine and with a bit of back and forth got the correct release bearing. quartermaster has more options available, but you need to contact customer service or dig through catalogs to find specs. i went deep down this rabbit hole and will have a running car within a month hopefully to find out how screwed i am. i went with rally clutch for better heat dissipation. depending how it is i might try it as single disc with spacer, or sending out pressure plate to have different spring installed. 
  lastly if going lighter on rotating weight vehicle weight, torque, and gearing will make a big difference in drive ability. the lighter the car, the more torque it has, and higher starting line ratio make it easier to leave from a stop.
Seth

What amazes me is the number of people who don't understand that what works on a track probably won't work on the street. 

In my defense i am completely aware. i know its stupid, and its not even its full form yet. ideally id love to have this running with mechanical injection and a blower. im looking for smiles per gallon, even if its a headache. 
Seth

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I am using the '55 Thunderbird clutch linkage and arm exactly as it was before I installed the T-5 and diaphram clutch.  Works just fine after I was able to double nut the adjusting rod so that it does not back off adjustment.  Joe-JDC

JDC