Years ago, when I was accumulating parts, I made the unwarranted/bone-head assumption that the stock clutch fork/throw-out assembly would successfully operate a concentric clutch.  I’m now having doubts, as it appears an aftermarket hydraulic rig may be required (?).  I may thus just change the discs in the OEM unit (already have  them).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Considering my OD trans. & rural location, I’m tempted to keep it. I also obtained a concentric clutch assembly, but wasn’t sure I would install it. I wonder how it would then effect operation (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

The rule of thumb is for the flywheel weight to be 1% of the vehicle weight.  For a 3000 lb. car that would be a 30 lb. flywheel.  Having a flywheel that’s too light makes it difficult to leave smoothly from a stop without bringing up the engine rpm higher than normal and then riding the clutch longer.  For an application like a circle tracker where the clutch is not used except at the start of a race, the lighter flywheel does allow the engine to accelerate quicker out of the turns while also allowing the engine to decelerate faster (less braking) going into the turns.

Just my experience so other opinions always welcome.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Soliciting opinions:
In my naivety, and pursuit of weight saving/heightened acceleration, I installed one on my spare motor (soon to likely be called to duty), not realizing how that might affect roadability, considering the E-4 Isky cam also. Reusing the iron OEM one (should it be resurfaced/balanced?), could complicate matters. I anticipate less driving my ‘55 as I progress into my 80s, so should I just live with it? Anyone out there with actual experience to share?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA