6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I’m kind of late to the discussion, but I’ve been running aluminum or lightened flywheels since about 1968. Both birds, and the F code clone in my 32. All in smaller lighter cars, variety of makes. Some over 400 cid. I’m not a drag racer and starting on a hill has never been much of a problem. I use them because I like the quicker change in rpm for shifting. In the last 30 years or so all Centerforce diaphragm clutches.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Been a long time. For torque I would have used either the flywheel literature (or called) or the stock spec. Never recall using loctite on those. Never had one come loose.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

"The impression I get, is that a precision air gap is only important with  hydraulic diaphragm units (I’m assuming the vintage mechanical throw-out mechanism has a wider/more flexible operation/adjustment window?) Also, some FoMoCo diaphragm clutches apparently are designed so that the T.O. bearing is continuously in contact (spinning) with the P.P. fingers (thus no air gap?)"

Back in the day when I was a sinner (worked on GM and MOPAR), the GM diaphragm clutch was adjusted by fully depressing the clutch pedal and measuring the air gap between the flywheel and disc.

Maybe the same? Can you post the source of the directions sheet?

As for release bearing pressure and the bearing riding against the fingers, I would think not. Either a burnt bearing or if too tight to the fingers a slipping clutch.

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Sorry, working from a tablet and don’t know how to post links or photos.
Makes sense that with the type of hydraulic bearing that’s designed to spin constantly, the only ‘air gap’ measurement would be at the disk.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA