Ooopppsss I am reposting this from the Street forum, I think it is better here 😅


Hi all you Y-block lovers! I'm new to this forum from Athens, Greece with my '54 Mercury Monterey driver. It has the original 239 with low mileage, manual with Overdrive, 6volt positive ground, the 2140 Teapot and, the ' temperamental' Load-O-Matic..

Before learning that need a SUN machine, way back I tried to adjust the spring weights and really messed it up. I found one in England but it came back and still is no good. I've always had problems and lately it misfires especially in the mid RPM range.


Here are my novice questions for your kind expert consideration:

1. Is there a way I can manually tune the springs without the SUN machine?

2. Are there reliable Load-O-Matic tuners in the states I can send it for proper tuning?my Load-O-Matic for tuning or I just forget about them?
3. Should I simply forget about it and go for a point unit with centrifugal weights like the ones used in the later Y-Block engines? And frankly I would like to keep it as buy now. I ( I can easily do Ted 's vacuum Teapot conversion I read about in this forum) know it quite well
4.
5. I am also open foran HEI distributor that looks like my original and can fit with the shaft length and tang coupling to the oil pump. However there is a question with the wiring of my overdrive's kick down switch wiring on the coil, because I tried the Pertronix unit it way back and it did not work.

That's it, thank you all in advance
Aris

If one modifies a LOM style carb to signal a DUAL ADVANCE DIST, is that modification permanent or can it be reversed if wanting to later revert back to LOM (restoration purposes)?

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'ya know ...

Back when, it (TUNE - POINTS REPLACEMENT) paid flat rate to remover the DIST and set it up on a DIST MACH as to dwell, point tension and correct advance. You know as well as I do that it rarely happened. The TECH threw in a set of points and condenser and drove it out.

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That’s a ‘Yes’ on being able to reverse the modification on a model 2140 or 4000 Holley 4V carburetor and be able to go back to the Load-O-Matic (LOM) distributor.  That carburetor modification for using a later model mechanical distributor simply blocks the venturi assisted portion of the vacuum signal to the distributor.

Removing the freshly installed nipple and plugging the hole at the outside of the carburetor would be one method for reversing the modification but if it’s a standard shift vehicle, then the modified screw in the bottom would need to be replaced with a long stem version along with installing the small plastic ball that sits on top of that stem.  If it’s an automatic transmission equipped car, the modified short stem screw at the bottom of the carburetor can stay in place.  An optional method is to remove the short stem screw at the bottom of the carburetor and simply drill a small hole through both sides of the tube used for the new nipple, replace the screw, and install a rubber cap on the exposed end of the nipple on the outside of the carburetor.  Either of these scenarios would restore the original vacuum signal assuming the spark advance valve is also in place.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

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... hmmpf ...

Actually read the TECH ARTICLE and now I understand.

Never actually needed to know before ...

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HI all of you great guys, I really appreciate your comments that give me more and more insight into my Merc's tech. It's amazing how nowadays communication has advanced to the point where we can help each other around the world. Being far away I started back in 1968 to
communicating with the US with letters and later on with faxes!

Taking into account all your valuable help I have a first decided not to swap the Loadomatic with a newer one, as yes KULTUZ I am also addicted to originality and after all it used to work ok for many years.

Now with your eager help yesterday
I ordered from eBay a
NOS (!!!) distributor on eBay and also another NOS distributor gear to go on my spare Loadomatic who's gear is missing. Now with three distributors available I'm going to spend the time to try and adjust the primary and secondary springs testing it on the road.

I'll double check my timing and everything else as suggested. As I'm only a DIY limited mechanic, Ted kindly explain to me what you mean by shimming have no idea what and how you mean this.

Also FORD DEARBORN please be more specific about ''using a vacuum gauge and a hand operated vacuum pump plumbed to the vacuum diaphragm'' is this a way I can set up the primary and secondary springs to my curve as per my manual?

Here is a pic from my manual

That chart gives you how the DIST ADVANCE as was curved by the factory.

You can find the exact curve in your 54 MERC WSM under IGN - SPECIFICATIONS using the DIST ID NO.

It will be tough without the DIST MACH and manometer (LOM).

CLICK HERE - http://m571.com/yblock/loadomatic.htm

GOOD LUCK WITH HER ...

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The vacuum pump mentioned, is often used to bleed brakes. If you do a search on the net, these vacuum pumps should come up. There are also various vacuum gauges available but will require some plumbing work to "T" into a vacuum line.  With the gauge and vacuum pump attached directly to the distributor advance can, you should be able to see with a timing light how the advance is responding in relation to the vacuum signal applied. This will not be precise but with a little experimentation, you may be able to get a feel for how well the advance is responding. I have rebuild/recurved numerous distributors through the years and indeed have a proper machine to do this. However, I have little experience with the Load O Matic. My 1955 Ford truck shop manual shows 4.5 to 6 inches of mercury/vacuum for the various engine and distributor combinations. As KULTULZ asks: What is the exact curve in the 54 Merc WSM?  Hope this helps, let us know....

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

KULTUZ and DEARBORN first I attach the curve chart. The check valve is another eye opener!

If I am correct based on the article my check valve should be marked with a 6 or a 7, correct?
However, I'm a bit confused because in my picture the Mercury parts book lists it with PN. B5A-9905-B but mentions ' stamped 25' unless this is for a Ford PN?

DEARBORN I believe you're showing me a way to adjust the springs while on the car, correct ? I have a brake bleeder pump and extra vacuum gauge and hoses and T's, no problem. Now if I got this right using the T I should splice it in the venturi vacuum line then observe the numbers based on my specs. ( I need to cut and add a hose along the metal line, something I wanted to do way back anyway)

There is another test I have to do about shimming which I had no idea about as Ted mentions

So Monday when back I have some great work to do! Yesssss🥳