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Aris, if you can get a 272/292 crank and 272 pistons, you can turn your 256 into a 272. I would change to the 1957 and up distributor for better performance.

I changed my 239 into a 283 with a crank and rods from a 312. I have the newer distributor. I took off the 14 tooth gear and used my old 13 tooth gear. You would also need to change the oil pump and drive.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

"quote-message">Aris, does the new NOS distributor and the new gear you have ordered have the 13 tooth count? Not 14 teeth

PINTOPLUMBER unfortunately I did not ask, frankly I was not aware that I should. For $69.95 for a NOS Loadomatic I just grabbed it.. even though with shipping, customs and VAT it goes way higher but I hope it is the correct and it will be pre-adjusted so my my ignition questions will be resolved!

Monday was bad... Today I feel better, in my ignorance though
😁
I examined the timing and found that even though at idle, 500, and 1.000 RPM the advance was very near the chart's values, at high RPM like 2.000 instead of 15 degrees, it shot totally out of range like over 30!!!

Does that prove that the springs are not properly tuned? I'm not sure as I tested it without disconnecting the vacuum line and I wonder if that makes a difference.
So patience is the key, the NOS LOM is on the way, due here in approximately 25 days, I can't wait.

"I examined the timing and found that even though at idle, 500, and 1.000 RPM the advance was very near the chart's values, at high RPM like 2.000 instead of 15 degrees, it shot totally out of range like over 30!!!

Does that prove that the springs are not properly tuned? I'm not sure as I tested it without disconnecting the vacuum line and I wonder if that makes a difference."

If it hit 30 degrees @ WOT, the full advance is working correctly.

Can you again describe what exactly what the engine is doing?

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KULTULZ pls explain @ WOT

Well it misfires.
It idles quite well, misfiring now and then, but above 2000 it starts misfiring a lot, constantly or continuously. Near top RPM it kind of quiets and it is not as noticeable, I presume as the momentum helps it running better, anyway it is not as prominent as in mid RPM

Same behavior on the road, low speeds runs just fine, but it struggles to cruise at high speed.No hard 'jerks?', just continuous misfiring and never going top speed, even though I haven't pushed it.

I have ruled out fuel starvation that I am familiar with its symptoms and to me it is an ignition problem.

The primary spring is very loose and the secondary seems ok, however they are very different from each other.

I will try splicing a vacuum gauge in the line and test it running, based the timing chart and report my findings.

I also have a bunch of new springs I've collected, perhaps I'll try them, but my hopes are with the new one coming

To eliminate a vacuum problem I would like to know if the Power Check valve is correct. The PN is 25R- 80A-29 but I don't know how to order as Holley goes by numbers 5,6 etc. and the carb kits I get are cheap no number ones. I have on a Holley marked 7 or 6,5 I think

Thanks for your help!

Sorry about that -

WIDE OPEN THROTTLE

Is gasoline (GREECE?) STRAIGHT OR ETHANOL LACED?

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"Well it misfires.

It idles quite well, misfiring now and then, but above 2000 it starts misfiring a lot, constantly or continuously. Near top RPM it kind of quiets and it is not as noticeable, I presume as the momentum helps it running better, anyway it is not as prominent as in mid RPM

Same behavior on the road, low speeds runs just fine, but it struggles to cruise at high speed.No hard 'jerks?', just continuous misfiring and never going top speed, even though I haven't pushed it.

I have ruled out fuel starvation that I am familiar with its symptoms and to me it is an ignition problem."

I would think either IGN misfire or a vacuum leak.

Don't worry about DIST signal now. The vacuum gauge has to be connected to A INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM source to read the engine. You also should take a FUEL PRESSURE and VOLUME TEST with the same gauge.

How long since the car has been serviced (tune-up - filters)?

So the car has 6000 miles on the odometer? How long has it sat without driving? Is the gasoline somewhat fresh?

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"I have ruled out fuel starvation that I am familiar with its symptoms and to me it is an ignition problem.

The primary spring is very loose and the secondary seems ok, however they are very different from each other."

The breaker plate springs (2) are different, one being PRIMARY and one being SECONDARY.

"I will try splicing a vacuum gauge in the line and test it running, based the timing chart and report my findings.

I also have a bunch of new springs I've collected, perhaps I'll try them, but my hopes are with the new one coming."

Maybe not actually cut the signal tube. You can fashion a test tube with nipples for signal testing. I don't believe the DIST is out of calibration.

"To eliminate a vacuum problem I would like to know if the Power Check valve is correct. The PN is 25R- 80A-29 but I don't know how to order as Holley goes by numbers 5,6 etc. and the carb kits I get are cheap no number ones. I have on a Holley marked 7 or 6,5 I think"

Are you describing the SPARK CONTROL VALVE or the actual CARB POWER VALVE?

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