Ok, EU countries should have 10% ethanol in the 95 unleaded, but I was told we have only 5%. In any case, it should be in between the two.

I use on classics Lead additive, but at less than what the manufacturer specifies unless I'm going on highways where I follow what's written on it.


The valve I probably did not name properly is the one my original Hollley 2140. I read that it is the one that should open I believe between 6 or 7 whatever units the vacuum is measured with, to provide vacuum to the LOM distributor.

"The valve I probably did not name properly is the one my original Hollley 2140. I read that it is the one that should open I believe between 6 or 7 whatever units the vacuum is measured with, to provide vacuum to the LOM distributor"

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Hi all! I have spent this time receiving parts and working on the project of making the LOM work like it used to.

Today I took the distributor out and as you can see on the picture first thing I see is brass shavings where the bottom side of the rotor was brushing on the top part of the shaft bushing.

I don't remember adding grease or oil there except in the oiler tube but that one lubes the shaft itself, not the top of it's bushing.

I'm at a loos as to why, I have to recheck my manual for the proper position of the shaft gear, because I replaced it and maybe I didn't do it right, but then again I don't know where that shaft should be actually ''sitting''

Or maybe I should have added a dab of Grease up there? I'm not sure.

Ok, I measured the gear position on the shaft and it is shorter than what the spec is, so it was my daft previous assembly that did the damage... Back on repositioning now....

At least you found the answer ... 

Is the bushing OK do you think?

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KULTULZ with three (!) distributors on my bench now, of which one was the NOS, I home to get somewhere 😛

I've chosen the NOS one to rebuild but had to swap it's gear as it came with 13 teeth. I positioned the 14 gear on the bench (4.991" to 4.996") but thought of checking the end play on the engine and I was lucky as I had to add 1/64 to reach the end play spec.

I thought I was doing well until on the NOS plate I checked the eccentric posts with a tool I made myself and one of them was frozen stuck and broke off 😝.... BTW that plate did not look NOS to me...

I'll go for the best one of the other two plates I have, but I still have to remove and reassemble the gear before I start the engine and go from there.

I was also very lucky to find two new Spark Check Valves from Mac's carburetors, as before I get on to adjusting the springs I want to make sure I have the correct spark plug vacuum values before attacking the springs.

I checked the eccentric posts with a tool I made myself and one of them was frozen stuck and broke off 😝.... BTW that plate did not look NOS to me...

No reason to try and turn the post(s)s (most likely frozen) as it is a fine tune that requires the correct DIST MACHINE setup.

I thought you were going to install the NOS DIST you acquired to see if that was the problem?

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Here is an interesting read concerning FBO IGN ability to convert a small bowl LOM DIST to mechanical and vacuum advance. The only thing that would give it away would be the DUAL ADVANCE VACUUM CANISTER - 

- http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic148849-15.aspx

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KULTULZ thank for your your follow ups!

On the NOS distributor I had to swap the 13 tooth to a 14 one and the vacuum chamber was 1/2 the diameter of the ones for my Y-block so even though it is a NOS, apparently it came from another V8 engine, I have no idea from what. Now when testing the pivots the primary broke so besides everything else, I now have to swap the plate too.

Your link for a Pertronix in a centrifugal distributor is very interesting but after trying them many years ago, I went back to points.

The main reason reason was that they were very sensitive to the correct voltage, so on my 6-volt cars they often did not work on start up when those vintage starters were pulling all the battery's juice. Perhaps in 12volts they are ok but for 6volt cars I had a negative experience.

On my 24v miltary Willys M38 they were fine, but I burned two of them because the ignition was left on. The Mercury had an additional problem as the Pertronix module would not engage the kickdown of my overdrive circuit.

I'm bidding my time to get the LOM working and if not I understand my last resort will be a centrifugal distributor along with a geared oil pump and shaft. Ted's straightforward Teapot modification will give one more DIY project that I can undertake in-between our summer heatwaves 😂

On the NOS distributor I had to swap the 13 tooth to a 14 one and the vacuum chamber was 1/2 the diameter of the ones for my Y-block so even though it is a NOS, apparently it came from another V8 engine

Post the DIST ID STAMPING NO from the bowl and I will give you the intended application -

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