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Help addressing my 239 Load-O-Matic puzzle

Posted By Aris Last Year
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pintoplumber
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Aris, does the new NOS distributor and the new gear you have ordered have the 13 tooth count? Not 14 teeth.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
DANIEL TINDER
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Another advantage of a NOS unit over one merely sent out to be setup on a SUN machine (assuming it was originally done right at the factory), is the fresh shaft & bushing.  The improved performance compared to one with worn parts is VERY noticeable. 
Of course, the ideal would be a fresh rebuild by a reputable expert with the full SUN complement, and a good stock of NOS, USA-made & specially tested ancillary parts (points, condensers, etc). Just finding a condenser with the right value, and points with the correct spring tension puts you a ‘leg up’ to start.


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Aris
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Thanks a million KULTULZ! Am on it this week to determine timing and other parameters however, to make a decision decide first I have to take delivery of the NOS as mentioned.
KULTULZ
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FORD DEARBORN POSTED -

'The photo with "shim?" with arrow is not where shims are installed, if anywhere. That "collar" is to be tightly held in place with a roll pin. The collar should be pinned to allow a minimum of .020" up and down thrust of the shaft. My 1955 book calls for .020 to .024" thrust. The correct position of the gear is also a critical dimension that must be followed.'

There is your answer for the correct driven gear placement.

If one has a DIST that needs the driven gear relocated, the normal practice is (was) to locate the collar/gear and re-drill the shaft ninety degrees off and insert new pins.

If you have a NOS DIST, all of the adjustments should be correct out of the box. 

Be mindful that the actual DIST ASSY CASTING NO on the bowl is an ID NO and not a SERVICE PN. The SERVICE PN(s) you find in the CHASSIS CATALOG(S) may be superseded PN's and may cause confusion.

The correct vacuum signal from the carb has to be determined first before trying to change the DIST SETTINGS.

If after installing the NOS DIST you bought, if she rattles on acceleration get back as FORD had a fix for that.

Any questions at all just ask and someone will help you with them.

Still waiting for glamour shots of the car ... Wink




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KULTULZ
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Ted, I can in no way imagine you as being 'bad'.

It finally dawned on me 'shimming' was meant to located the driven gear correctly on the shaft.


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Ted
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Aris (5/17/2025)
  
TedWithout the aid of a distributor machine, your timing light can be used for determining your existing ‘no load’ distributor curve.  As a general rule, adding shims reduces the total amount of timing and taking shims away increases the total amount of ignition timing.  From what you are describing, you need to add shims ...

Ted (I tried quoting hope it works)
I used GPT to learn about shimming distributors as I had no knowledge of it, so when setting the timing, I certainly did not rev up to observe any problem .
It could be that I have messed things up because at one point, if my failing memory is correct, I put chose and used the best shaft on my current distributor and probably moved the single gear I had. So much for my expertise 😭
Any instructions or links how to best shim it will help! Thanks

  My bad on the comment about the shims as that was a memory hiccup on my part.  I was originally referring to shims in the vacuum can and not the end play for the lower gear.  0.022-0.030” is the 1957 specification for the distributor end play so it should be similar for the earlier model distributors.

The dual diaphragm L-O-M distributors and the 1957 and up distributor vacuum pots did have some adjustability at the vacuum chambers by using different shims, springs, and spacers.  Looking through my stash of early single diaphragm L-O-M distributors, they all have non-adjustable vacuum pots.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/6ba46847-8aa7-41eb-92d9-6d43.jpg 



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


FORD DEARBORN
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The photo with "shim?" with arrow is not where shims are installed, if anywhere. That "collar" is to be tightly held in place with a roll pin. The collar should be pinned to allow a minimum of .020" up and down thrust of the shaft. My 1955 book calls for .020 to .024" thrust. The correct position of the gear is also a critical dimension that must be followed.         Trying to precisely  adjust the advance springs while in the engine will be challenging. Standard vacuum gauges are not accurate enough to split an inch of vacuum/mercury into a fraction but  by experimentation you may get the  "feel" of it.  The vacuum advance canister will need to be disconnected from the carburetor and then plumbed to the pump and gauge because with no load on the engine, the air flow through the carb will not provide a good and proper signal. There are devices available that can be plumbed in for precisely measuring small vacuum signals. If you would like to see the one I have, I'll gladly try sending a pic of it.    As stated above, the NOS distributor you have may be calibrated well enough out of the box.  You could push a vacuum hose against the canister connection and with the other end clinched in your teeth, make sure everything moves freely. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500
Aris
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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A
So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.




Aris
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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A
So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.




Aris
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This is my spare Loadomatic without gear but I have ordered one.
On the shaft I measure 0.058'' play, if this is the place to shim, what should the tolerance be
?

[img]http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/59f1cc9b-9194-4cb3-b916-92e5.jpg[/img]

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