I LOVE those pictures!

Your 58 F-600 is VERY COOL (maybe the coolant not so much!)

You might be able to tell if your fan isn't up to the task by measuring coolant temps at strategic points, starting with temps at the bottom of the radiator where it enters the pump. (comparing it to the top after exiting the T-stat to get a total temp drop)
If you are getting good temp control under load by spraying cool water through the radiator,  You still may not have enough airflow.


Coolant flow rates through the engine  are largely controlled by how much can flow through the T-stat (and of course the pump,  assuming the engine coolant passages are not too restrictive)



I bought a new (turbocharged) 3/4T 4X4 Diesel GMC Suburban in 1994 (first year with turbocharging and the electronically controlled Stanadyne injection pump)

The T-stat housing had a single stat in it and was determined to be inadequate in terms of coolant flow during towing  so GM started using double-thermostat housings to increase the coolant flow through the stats. (I think they also improved the circulating pump too....although I couldn't tell much difference between the 2 pumps)

I changed both the pump and T-stat housing on the Suburban to the double T-stat version and noticed a marked difference in the temps during towing.


For your installation, a higher flow pump might result in an improvement but if the coolant going into the pump (from the bottom of the RAD) is still too hot, you need to address it also  (maybe any one of bigger radiator, more rows or more airflow)

You're right.  The Flex-A-Lite double-fan model is really wide and tall.

Height (inches)	26 3/8 in.
Width (inches)	29 1/2 in.
Depth (inches)	4 1/4 in.
Air Flow (cfm)	6,800

But on my stock radiator installation, I believe I could make it fit by making a shroud "adapter" and making "cutouts" for the upper and lower radiator hoses.

I have 6 3/8" between the radiator core and the water pump-pulley flange.


I have plenty of room for a 4.25"  depth electric installation  but I am not thinking it would be "better that big 6-blade fan on the clutch above .  All I need to do is build a shroud for it.  In my case, simpler might be better.

I hope you find a solution to your overheat problem!


Cheers,

Rick




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

---------------------
This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

My suggestion was already covered.

Sadly that didn't make much difference. Still having to use the cooling water.

Do you know the rear end ratio? Trans type? Engine RPM at road speed?

____________________________

Looking at the fan to radiator distance, you might not need a shroud if you get the fan closer to the radiator.  To me, it looks like the fan is too far away.  





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

You're right it is quite a ways away.  It was intentional when I was planning electric fan(s) 

But even placing the fan "close" will not  result in full airflow through the 4-row core.  In any case, I believe a shroud is necessary to cool the entire core of the radiator.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

---------------------
This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

This is via "spraying" water into the front of the radiator/intercooler assembly?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

---------------------
This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Rear end is 5.83/8.11

Trans is a T98a, 4th gear is direct. No over drive

Rpm is 2650-3100. 49-57mph. There seems to be a heat wall about 54mph. We can run 3100rpm/57mph for ten miles before it finally creeps up to 205°, back off to 2700rpm/49mph for a mile or two and it'll drop back to 188-190° then speed up again.

Correct. We have an igloo cooler on the headache rack filled with water and a tube ran in front of the radiator. We stop to refill every 20-70 miles.

About the middle of Missouri right now. Running 52mph no additional water and mid 190s on temp. We even ran the a/c a little yesterday and today!

Rear end is 5.83/8.11

Trans is a T98a, 4th gear is direct. No over drive

Rpm is 2650-3100 @ 49/57mph. There seems to be a heat wall about 54mph. We can run 3100rpm/57mph for ten miles before it finally creeps up to 205°, back off to 2700rpm/49mph for a mile or two and it'll drop back to 188-190° then speed up again.

That is a really low rear gear for a road truck. It must have been built for local heavy haul (or farm use). Road speed (engine RPM) and the size of the inter-cooler (blocking air flow) may be causing all of this.

Are you going to leave the rear in or change ratio? Does the turbo need such a large inter-cooler?

What usage do you have for the truck once it is home?

BTW - Too bad you didn't record all of this as it would make one heck of a U-TUBE SHORT.

____________________________