This is via "spraying" water into the front of the radiator/intercooler assembly?





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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

You're right it is quite a ways away.  It was intentional when I was planning electric fan(s) 

But even placing the fan "close" will not  result in full airflow through the 4-row core.  In any case, I believe a shroud is necessary to cool the entire core of the radiator.




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Looking at the fan to radiator distance, you might not need a shroud if you get the fan closer to the radiator.  To me, it looks like the fan is too far away.  





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Do you know the rear end ratio? Trans type? Engine RPM at road speed?

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Sadly that didn't make much difference. Still having to use the cooling water.

My suggestion was already covered.

I LOVE those pictures!

Your 58 F-600 is VERY COOL (maybe the coolant not so much!)

You might be able to tell if your fan isn't up to the task by measuring coolant temps at strategic points, starting with temps at the bottom of the radiator where it enters the pump. (comparing it to the top after exiting the T-stat to get a total temp drop)
If you are getting good temp control under load by spraying cool water through the radiator,  You still may not have enough airflow.


Coolant flow rates through the engine  are largely controlled by how much can flow through the T-stat (and of course the pump,  assuming the engine coolant passages are not too restrictive)



I bought a new (turbocharged) 3/4T 4X4 Diesel GMC Suburban in 1994 (first year with turbocharging and the electronically controlled Stanadyne injection pump)

The T-stat housing had a single stat in it and was determined to be inadequate in terms of coolant flow during towing  so GM started using double-thermostat housings to increase the coolant flow through the stats. (I think they also improved the circulating pump too....although I couldn't tell much difference between the 2 pumps)

I changed both the pump and T-stat housing on the Suburban to the double T-stat version and noticed a marked difference in the temps during towing.


For your installation, a higher flow pump might result in an improvement but if the coolant going into the pump (from the bottom of the RAD) is still too hot, you need to address it also  (maybe any one of bigger radiator, more rows or more airflow)

You're right.  The Flex-A-Lite double-fan model is really wide and tall.

Height (inches)	26 3/8 in.
Width (inches)	29 1/2 in.
Depth (inches)	4 1/4 in.
Air Flow (cfm)	6,800

But on my stock radiator installation, I believe I could make it fit by making a shroud "adapter" and making "cutouts" for the upper and lower radiator hoses.

I have 6 3/8" between the radiator core and the water pump-pulley flange.


I have plenty of room for a 4.25"  depth electric installation  but I am not thinking it would be "better that big 6-blade fan on the clutch above .  All I need to do is build a shroud for it.  In my case, simpler might be better.

I hope you find a solution to your overheat problem!


Cheers,

Rick




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

This can't be helping. Hot tip: use stainless for the cross over blocks

Great thoughts!

The F600 is a constant load by itself I agree. After climbing a few 11,000' passes over the last few days, here's my current theories.

#1. The water pump sucks. You MUST get the flow cooler pump. If I could get one today I would be installing it instead of posting here. Brand new pump with the smaller pulley and you can watch the temp climb as rpm drops. It not nearly as dramatic as before with the stock truck pulley, but still obvious.

#2. Electric fan CFM. The 6,000 CFM kits you linked are "up to 6,000 CFM". The kit uses 2 of the 16" 3,000 CFM fans that we are currently using. The radiator in my truck isn't nearly big enough to fit that, I'm not sure about yours.

#3 electric vs belt driven fan is an argument as old as blondes vs brunettes lol. Pick your favorite and ride, there is pros and cons to each. For us the electric makes sense.

#4. You'll need slim style electric fans, and I'd recommend a car water pump and smaller pulley. You'll find with the truck pump, standard electric fan in a shroud, there is interference issues with the fan motor and water pump.

The biggest issue for these truck I think is the load. They are big and heavy. Last night we pulled Monarch Pass. 11,400' over the top. We started at the "bottom" about 8,500' and didn't cool down enough before starting the pull(we've learned this vastly increases our chances of success). We were at about 190° at the bottom. Made it a few miles before we were 210° and climbing so we pulled over to add ice to our aux cooling water rig. There was a group of 4 semis creeping up the hill that pulled over into the same pull out to cool off. A little hint that maybe we aren't doing as bad as we thought. We refilled the water cooler with ice and water. Cycled the engine a few times and got it down to 155°(you can't do this with a mech fan). Jumped back in and hammered down. Pushing about 3-4 psi of boost, 3,000rpm 4th gear low range in the rear 45-50mph. Pulled like that for 7 miles and went over the top at 11,400' and 202°.

Our intake crossover plug on the turbo side burnt out a week ago and we haven't been able to find a set of intake gaskets, until now.

I'm in Colorado Springs heading to the parts store to grab a set and trim a stainless exhaust clamp to make new block off plates. Swapping the intake along side the road somewhere.

Our situation is pretty unique. I think the higher EGTS and pressure from the turbo was too much for the aluminum block off plate most can use in a N/A application. This being burned out has to be adding a bunch of heat into the engine as it's the only place the paint is burned off, and it's halfway to the carb pad now.

Wish me luck!

Over Ophir Pass! 11,729' up the hard side!

Howdy,

I think I am probably going to be worrying about the same thing in the not too distant future.

My radiator is original in that it was originally came with my 55 F-600 when it had a 6-cyl engine installed.  I got it with a 239 Y and later found a 272 from a 59 F100 and rebuilt it.

I am not using the "High Mount" pump and fan position opting for either a set of electric fans or a much bigger clutch fan.

The radiator I mentioned I took to a radiator shop in Tacoma, Wa and had them completely  rebuild it removing the 3-row core and replacing it with a 4-row core.

My water pump is the (non high mount) pickup type pump and I'll likely be building a shroud to match up with it if I stay with the belt driven,  water pump mounted fan.

Here's where I am on your problem. 

I do not think 3000 CFM is enough for an F250/350 pulling any sort of load. 

And since the F-600 is a "load" all itself,   I am thinking that if I do go with electrics it will have to be something similar to Flex-A-Lite's 6000CFM fan system for the Superduty F-250/350 diesels. like below.

Flex-A-Lite 6000 CFM

I am a little suspect of the fan marketeers that claim you save all sorts of HP by using electrics but they don't really save all that much over a good clutch fan since the clutch is disengaged most of the time.

When the electric fan is running, it still must be driven by the alternator/generator. 
Electric fan manufacturers claim you can save up to 27hp .  Now granted, if a big belt driven fan is running at max engine RPM it might very well require 27hp to turn it (at that RPM)  

But you're getting a commensurate amount of CFM from that fan too. 
(I don't think a Y-block fan requires that amount of HP to turn it though)    I suppose an enterprising engine rebuilder could dyno test an engine with a fan and without and put that to bed!

But even the 6000CFM fans running at high RPM are requiring a fair amount of current (48A, from the ALT/GEN)

48A @14V produces 672W of power.  1hp = 746W     So those fans get around  1hp from the engine (via the ALT/GEN)  

If roughly 1HP produces 6000CFM, then the engine driven fan must be producing more CFM  (A LOT MORE) And yes, I know the elecrtic fans are better designed fans more efficient blade design yada yada.  But they're not "that" much better!

It's not a problem with a car or a pickup someone drives around empty most of the time.  But with a Medium duty truck like your 58 F-600 or my 55 F-600.... if we load them up  even a little, the CFM requirements for the radiator ramp up sharply.


No automotive electrical system is capable of producing that level of current for any longer than it takes to crank en engine .  I.E. the starter in my 2005 F-350 SD Diesel might briefly (initially) draw 1000A  of current during cranking but the alternator will never produce more than about 150A or so during normal operations.

So I am thinking I might stay away from electrics for mine because under load, they may not move enough air.  And with an A/C condenser in front of the radiator, it'll need even more air flow.

For your truck, I am thinking that you might have to double your CFM (or go back to a belt driven fan)  to reduce the overheating.  I don't think a 3000CFM fan is going to be adequate for anything other than "straight & level flying"  (no headwind)

Regards,


Rick






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox