With shopping if you come across a 12v pump like a windshield washer and tank  and plumb it to a copper tube in front of the radiator with about 10-12 small holes drilled in it. You can switch it on when needed to squire down infront of the radiator. I had to do that on an 60’s pickup with a camper when I towed on hills. Good luck. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

1) 10-4 on the lower hose collapsing @ speed. It has to have a SS spring inserted

2) You kept the take-off pump to be rebuilt?

3) While I was looking at your build photos and drooling all over the place, it did not dawn on me how large the inter-cooler is. It almost blocks the radiator core and may be a reason it overheats @ speed.

4) Did you keep the original WP pulley or go to a car style? It may be that the pulley dia is not moving coolant quickly enough. With the rad cap off and looking into the top tank, is coolant moving after thermostat opens? This is a problem on the 55/57 BIRDS.

5) What is the rear ratio? It may be winding the engine too high for today's roads/speeds. Is the trans a direct or OD in final gear?

6) And I never figured this one out. The TEMP SENSOR is on the left driver's cyl head and actually measures coolant temp coming off the cylinder barrels left bank. The temp may vary greatly between there and the thermostat.

7) The wife seems to be in good spirits but maybe block off the heater core so she doesn't get too hot?



Possibly, if there is a large air gap between the rad and inter-cooler, the air-flow is disrupted.

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We tried the zip tie mounts and that was the main reason for our detour to Summit. The fan without the shroud couldn't keep up in any condition.

The fan in the shroud on our particular application has been better in every phase. It's hard to see, but there is louvers in the corner to allow some air to pass at speed. I don't care for this design and would much rather have the rubber flap design, but we don't have a way to do this on the road.

Thermostat is a brand new #304 Robert Shaw 160° and working much better that the standard flow we had in when we left.

Do do have the stock fan and shroud but I'm not sure we have a way to put it all back on without fab work.

That's why we were at Lowe's yesterday! We have an igloo cooler we are getting set up on the headache rack to gravity feed water to a spray bar

#1. Lower hose does have the spring. Verified yesterday during the water pump change. I'll give them both a squeeze again to double check.

#2. Yes we kept the pump but I have no intention of rebuilding it. We have changed over the car pump and smaller 68 Mustang pulley.

3. The intercooler. This could be an issue, but it's heating up before we start making boost and IATs aren't much above ambient.

4. Smaller car pulley. Which helped for sure.

Our temp sensor is mounted right next to the thermostat on the front top of the intake.

One thing I did notice is one of the exhaust cross overs seems to have burned out and burning the paint on the intake. I wouldn't think that would cause the issue, but maybe?

"One thing I did notice is one of the exhaust cross overs seems to have burned out and burning the paint on the intake. I wouldn't think that would cause the issue, but maybe?"

That is a natural occurrence. You didn't use the truck intake gaskets to block some of that crossover exhaust heat (well duh! you have headers - no crossover provision)?  There is also a tube in that intake crossover that if corrodes will allow exhaust gases to escape out of the tube inlet/outlet ports under the carb flange. 

Anyways, you are doing one heck of a job getting it across the Rockies.

BTW - Does the wife smile when she hears the turbo?     

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Getting better!

I'll read everyone's replies and respond later. It's not fixed, but we're moving!

Thanks everyone for the ideas!

Howdy,

I think I am probably going to be worrying about the same thing in the not too distant future.

My radiator is original in that it was originally came with my 55 F-600 when it had a 6-cyl engine installed.  I got it with a 239 Y and later found a 272 from a 59 F100 and rebuilt it.

I am not using the "High Mount" pump and fan position opting for either a set of electric fans or a much bigger clutch fan.

The radiator I mentioned I took to a radiator shop in Tacoma, Wa and had them completely  rebuild it removing the 3-row core and replacing it with a 4-row core.

My water pump is the (non high mount) pickup type pump and I'll likely be building a shroud to match up with it if I stay with the belt driven,  water pump mounted fan.

Here's where I am on your problem. 

I do not think 3000 CFM is enough for an F250/350 pulling any sort of load. 

And since the F-600 is a "load" all itself,   I am thinking that if I do go with electrics it will have to be something similar to Flex-A-Lite's 6000CFM fan system for the Superduty F-250/350 diesels. like below.

Flex-A-Lite 6000 CFM

I am a little suspect of the fan marketeers that claim you save all sorts of HP by using electrics but they don't really save all that much over a good clutch fan since the clutch is disengaged most of the time.

When the electric fan is running, it still must be driven by the alternator/generator. 
Electric fan manufacturers claim you can save up to 27hp .  Now granted, if a big belt driven fan is running at max engine RPM it might very well require 27hp to turn it (at that RPM)  

But you're getting a commensurate amount of CFM from that fan too. 
(I don't think a Y-block fan requires that amount of HP to turn it though)    I suppose an enterprising engine rebuilder could dyno test an engine with a fan and without and put that to bed!

But even the 6000CFM fans running at high RPM are requiring a fair amount of current (48A, from the ALT/GEN)

48A @14V produces 672W of power.  1hp = 746W     So those fans get around  1hp from the engine (via the ALT/GEN)  

If roughly 1HP produces 6000CFM, then the engine driven fan must be producing more CFM  (A LOT MORE) And yes, I know the elecrtic fans are better designed fans more efficient blade design yada yada.  But they're not "that" much better!

It's not a problem with a car or a pickup someone drives around empty most of the time.  But with a Medium duty truck like your 58 F-600 or my 55 F-600.... if we load them up  even a little, the CFM requirements for the radiator ramp up sharply.


No automotive electrical system is capable of producing that level of current for any longer than it takes to crank en engine .  I.E. the starter in my 2005 F-350 SD Diesel might briefly (initially) draw 1000A  of current during cranking but the alternator will never produce more than about 150A or so during normal operations.

So I am thinking I might stay away from electrics for mine because under load, they may not move enough air.  And with an A/C condenser in front of the radiator, it'll need even more air flow.

For your truck, I am thinking that you might have to double your CFM (or go back to a belt driven fan)  to reduce the overheating.  I don't think a 3000CFM fan is going to be adequate for anything other than "straight & level flying"  (no headwind)

Regards,


Rick






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Great thoughts!

The F600 is a constant load by itself I agree. After climbing a few 11,000' passes over the last few days, here's my current theories.

#1. The water pump sucks. You MUST get the flow cooler pump. If I could get one today I would be installing it instead of posting here. Brand new pump with the smaller pulley and you can watch the temp climb as rpm drops. It not nearly as dramatic as before with the stock truck pulley, but still obvious.

#2. Electric fan CFM. The 6,000 CFM kits you linked are "up to 6,000 CFM". The kit uses 2 of the 16" 3,000 CFM fans that we are currently using. The radiator in my truck isn't nearly big enough to fit that, I'm not sure about yours.

#3 electric vs belt driven fan is an argument as old as blondes vs brunettes lol. Pick your favorite and ride, there is pros and cons to each. For us the electric makes sense.

#4. You'll need slim style electric fans, and I'd recommend a car water pump and smaller pulley. You'll find with the truck pump, standard electric fan in a shroud, there is interference issues with the fan motor and water pump.

The biggest issue for these truck I think is the load. They are big and heavy. Last night we pulled Monarch Pass. 11,400' over the top. We started at the "bottom" about 8,500' and didn't cool down enough before starting the pull(we've learned this vastly increases our chances of success). We were at about 190° at the bottom. Made it a few miles before we were 210° and climbing so we pulled over to add ice to our aux cooling water rig. There was a group of 4 semis creeping up the hill that pulled over into the same pull out to cool off. A little hint that maybe we aren't doing as bad as we thought. We refilled the water cooler with ice and water. Cycled the engine a few times and got it down to 155°(you can't do this with a mech fan). Jumped back in and hammered down. Pushing about 3-4 psi of boost, 3,000rpm 4th gear low range in the rear 45-50mph. Pulled like that for 7 miles and went over the top at 11,400' and 202°.

Our intake crossover plug on the turbo side burnt out a week ago and we haven't been able to find a set of intake gaskets, until now.

I'm in Colorado Springs heading to the parts store to grab a set and trim a stainless exhaust clamp to make new block off plates. Swapping the intake along side the road somewhere.

Our situation is pretty unique. I think the higher EGTS and pressure from the turbo was too much for the aluminum block off plate most can use in a N/A application. This being burned out has to be adding a bunch of heat into the engine as it's the only place the paint is burned off, and it's halfway to the carb pad now.

Wish me luck!

Over Ophir Pass! 11,729' up the hard side!

This can't be helping. Hot tip: use stainless for the cross over blocks