Wow!
19 PSI would probably blow the top or bottom tank clean off my rad!! (if the pressure actually got that high!)

I installed a coolant pressure gage in my 21ft boat (Mercruiser 454/Bravo III)  that I also installed a San Juan Engr closed cooling system in.

The "radiator" is actually a water-to-water heat exchanger.  I think I have a 180 stat in it and I don't think I have ever seen more than about 190 degrees and maybe 10-12 PSI. (15 PSI cap I think)

A pressure gage is pretty useful. 

I think you'll  definitely want to look at temps at the inlet and outlet of the radiator.  that will absolutely tell you how much heat is being removed by the fan.


What did the impeller cost?


Hope you're feeling better!

Cheers,

Rick




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

High flow impeller is in the mail!

I also have a few thermocouples coming so I can document any changes now that we're home and can make meaningful changes.

We're running a 19psi cap, tested, since Reno. I would love to monitor cooling system pressure and might if we continue to have issues. We do log this on any modern FI car, as it can show a head lifting that tests fine in the shop. Unfortunately we're running Sniper EFI which doesn't have any open channels to log it. But we can always just add a simple pressure guage and run it into the cab and watch when its loaded and on boost.

I have rubber flaps coming to improve the shroud, and it's in the shop now to fix some other issues that might be blocking air into the radiator.

I'll report back with more data and results! Sorry I'm slow, my health isn't the best and trying to recover from living in a 58 F600 for a few weeks on the road lol

Howdy,

I'm wondering if you heard anything about the "new" impeller?  I sent them an email using their web-based system and have not gotten an answer.

They did respond (auto-responder) but they did not answer my question about them rebuilding my truck pump or buying the impeller outright.

Also, I wonder if you have installed a pressure gage to monitor cooling system pressure when you see 210 degrees?

I have been thinking about using a 190-200 degree stat (and also monitor pressure) with a 10PSI cap.

You might have a "steam pocket" problem at the higher temps unless you allow the pressure to operate at a higher number.  So it would probnably be useful to know what pressures are seen at the higher temps.

I would think there's nothing wrong with running the engine at a slightly higher temp (10% higher)  Which would be around 200 degrees F  but you would need to use a higher pressure cap

https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/13852841-what-pressure-cap-rating-should-i-use

Any info on the new impeller?




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

That's good to know!

I'm going to stick with the car pump as you can't get the smaller mustang pulley over the 3/4" truck shaft snout, and the belt alignment would be off.

FlowCooler sells the impeller separate as noted on their site. Since car and truck are 5/8" on that end, I'll probably just do that on my new car pump and leave the smaller pulley.

Our set up now is so close to the the tipping point of being able to stay cool all the time. Now that we're home I can address a few of the little issues and see if they get us over the hump.

We're in Clarksville TN safe and sound! Two back to back 600 mile days got me home in time to take my nephew to the Indy race for his 21st birthday.

Just now looked at their site and it appears that they replace the impeller in a stock (car) pump with their own aluminum anodized one.

It also appears that they may only offer "car" pumps but suggest (if needed) to use a sleeve spacer for the fan in a truck application.

They do offer impellers for rebuild but I suspect that they're only for a 5/8" shaft.  So if you have a "real" truck pump you're rebuilding, the impeller will not fit.
If enough people from here and maybe FTE were to deluge them with emails asking for 3/4" ID impellers, they'd produce them. 

Otherwise, I think one would have to chuck one of their impellers up in a lathe or set it up on a vertical mill and carefully cut a 3/4"  "interference-fit"  hole.


https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/1635-1954-1964-ford-y-block-221-227-239-272-292-300-312-water-pump

It's amazing what a truck water pump costs nowadays!  Just found 2 on eBay (I assumed rebuilt) for over $300 ea!

EDIT:

Ok....

Those dimensions got me thinking (yes, I know.....that's scary all by itself!!!)

I have an extra truck pump that is in otherwise good condx but several years ago, just to be "ready", I bought a rebuild kit for that pump from MAC's Antique Auto Parts in Lockport NY.  ( B6C-8591-KT )

The impeller (and impeller end of the new shaft) is 0.625" (5/8")  , and the flange shaft is  0.750" (3/4")!  I did not know this before but it would appear that  all the pumps (car & truck) use the same 5/8" ID impeller!

I found several truck  pumps online for around $325 (thanks Joe!)   But there may be a LOT of rebuild kits out there and using the FlowKooler impeller might just be the answer for better (increased) coolant flow!

Impeller end 5/8"






Fan side 3/4"















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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I'll probably order the FlowKooler pump as well.

Just a quick thought, you can buy just the impeller itself. Might save you a few dollars. I wonder if they offer one just for the truck pump?

Anyways, I didn't know you all were home. What section of TN are you in, west, middle or east TN? Got some good pulls east of Nashville.

GOOD LUCK to you both. Quite an adventure.

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It has lived its whole life on a ranch in Eastern Oregon. Probably seen more miles on dirt than pavement.

I did record a bunch and took a ton of pictures. I might upload some. We used to do a bunch of social media content generation and honestly it gets old. We didn't want to let the entire Internet comment or try and effect a personal vacation.

We plan to use it locally as a dump truck around our small farm/shop here in Tennessee.

We have a '49 Dodge B4c that we plan to travel the world in a few years. This seemed like a good practice trip.

It probably didn't need the intercooler, but we wanted to make sure to keep it out of detonation if at all possible. There is a few things I'll change to help with cooling now that we are home. The lower intercooler mount and shroud flaps being the first place I'll start. I'll probably order the FlowKooler pump as well.

Here locally it seems much happier. We didn't use cooling water at all for the last 250 miles home. It was much cooler and misty/drizzly though.

It makes a lot more boost now than it did out west! Haha

Rear end is 5.83/8.11

Trans is a T98a, 4th gear is direct. No over drive

Rpm is 2650-3100 @ 49/57mph. There seems to be a heat wall about 54mph. We can run 3100rpm/57mph for ten miles before it finally creeps up to 205°, back off to 2700rpm/49mph for a mile or two and it'll drop back to 188-190° then speed up again.

That is a really low rear gear for a road truck. It must have been built for local heavy haul (or farm use). Road speed (engine RPM) and the size of the inter-cooler (blocking air flow) may be causing all of this.

Are you going to leave the rear in or change ratio? Does the turbo need such a large inter-cooler?

What usage do you have for the truck once it is home?

BTW - Too bad you didn't record all of this as it would make one heck of a U-TUBE SHORT.

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Correct. We have an igloo cooler on the headache rack filled with water and a tube ran in front of the radiator. We stop to refill every 20-70 miles.

About the middle of Missouri right now. Running 52mph no additional water and mid 190s on temp. We even ran the a/c a little yesterday and today!

Rear end is 5.83/8.11

Trans is a T98a, 4th gear is direct. No over drive

Rpm is 2650-3100. 49-57mph. There seems to be a heat wall about 54mph. We can run 3100rpm/57mph for ten miles before it finally creeps up to 205°, back off to 2700rpm/49mph for a mile or two and it'll drop back to 188-190° then speed up again.