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Daniel Jessup
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 2.0K,
Visits: 118.9K
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Thanks! Glad to be here - I did check on the Tractor Supply in Palmdale. They still stock the tractor transmission fluid for $39.99. I may monitor that just to see if things do go on sale soon. Appreciate the heads up. 
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" 
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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alanfreeman
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 345,
Visits: 4.4K
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Welcome Daniel to SoCal!
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Daniel Jessup
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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Visits: 118.9K
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alanfreeman (5/12/2023)
Hi Daniel. You had better stock up on this stuff before you move to SoCal (if you can still get it where you live now) as I just bought the last two jugs which Tractor Supply had for sale on clearance @ $6.79 each, as it is being discontinued, at least in SoCal. Ala Too late  I am already out here in the Antelope Valley.
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Hoosier Hurricane
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Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.7K,
Visits: 321.5K
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When my solenoid became balky, I took it apart and found a leather washer that acted as a stop when the solenoid was not actuated. That washer had become oil soaked and was sticky, which prevented easy actuation by the solenoid. Soaking the washer in gasoline and squeezing out the oil fixed the problem for me.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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alanfreeman
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 345,
Visits: 4.4K
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Hi Daniel. You had better stock up on this stuff before you move to SoCal (if you can still get it where you live now) as I just bought the last two jugs which Tractor Supply had for sale on clearance @ $6.79 each, as it is being discontinued, at least in SoCal. Ala
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DANIEL TINDER
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.6K,
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Go figure. Went for a test ride (80 degree weather)…. back-up OD solenoid working fine again. Turns out also, I HAD changed the seal but forgot (gettin old). Just not sure if I installed it correctly (it has a ‘side specific’ shape). Maybe if fluid leaked/fouled it (thus made balky in cold weather)), it drained out over time (?)..Must remember to clean/re-install the orig. unit though.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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DANIEL TINDER
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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DANIEL TINDER (12/7/2022)
Hoosier Hurricane (12/6/2022)
I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler. The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover. Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger. It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part. I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold. I’m assuming it’s the solenoid (likely needs cleaning). Plus, the issue mainly occurs at night, driving with the brights on (original 6V system). Just may not be enough juice left over to engage 20 yrs. of accumulated gum/sludge (internal seals/contact points don’t last forever). Since the relay is solid state converted, I won’t bother to change that now, as those electronics tend to either work or not. Good opportunity to change the solenoid-to-trans. seal also, and fill trans. with fresh mineral oil. Well, I changed the fluid & installed my back-up solenoid (which solved the issue), but now, after after failing intermittently, ‘IT’ totally quit. I was too lazy to change the seal when I had the chance, or clean the old solenoid yet (it didn’t seem to be flooded), so now I’m screwed for awhile. A leaking seal was the reason the OD didn’t work when I first got the car 25 yrs. ago, so it looks like I’m back where I started. After I change it and clean/inspect both solenoids, I’ll report progress.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Dobie
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 476,
Visits: 22.0K
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OK, I stand corrected. However, I will stick with straight mineral oil as I've never had any issues with it and I have a lifetime supply of it.
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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No, but it appears that you do.
... damn ...
Kinda snippy aren't we? Retaining water this week?
The product is fine for use. You need to get your reference materials upgraded since 1956. LUBE TECH has come a long way.
RED LINE MT-85 GL-1 - https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-85-75w85-gl-4-gear-oil
QUOTE - SAFE for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage.
Don't rain in the man's parade with false narratives.
Now we went over this time after time before and saw a native uprising and was shooed off.
OK, I'm leaving Ted, and no I won't let the door hit me in my a$$ ... 
____________________________
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Dobie
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 476,
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No, but it appears that you do. Transaxles typically share their oil between the transmission section and the final drive. The final drive gears are what need hypoid additives. Modern transmissions/transaxles don't contain any brass parts (synchronizers), so hypoid is safe to use in them. It is not safe for our transmissions.
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