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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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Anyone else having this issue? Hard to test solutions as much of the time when cold enough, it’s also wet/slushy. Starting with the obvious (relay fuse/contacts, solenoid connections, relay change, then solenoid change). I’m thinking it’s unlikely to be a temp-related internal trans./OD issue, since once the engine is warm, so is the trans.
Sometimes the OD won’t engage until the engine gets warm, but on a recent sub-freezing drive, it never did. Anything I’ve overlooked? The kick-down switch is fairly new, and functions normally. I suppose cleaning those connections/contacts could be included eventually. I will need to drive a fairly long distance trip this winter, and would hate to run at 3000+ revs. for very long on the highway.
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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I have noticed similar behavior at cold but above-freezing temps. In my case I attributed it to the increased viscosity of the oil when colder. I’m sure the transmission warms up a good bit more slowly than the engine.
Last time I encountered this problem it seemed to increase in frequency until one day (like you) I couldn’t get the O/D no matter what. The fuse was blown. I was on my way home so I just made sure the solenoid and governor wires were clear of anything that might cause a short, replaced the fuse, and haven’t had a problem since.
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By Ted - 2 Years Ago
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My ’55 Customline with the BW T85-OD trans is slow to go into overdrive when the gear oil is cold. Typically okay in the hot summer months here in Texas but as soon as the temperature drops a little, it takes a little bit of running down the road before the overdrive will engage. The colder the temperature, the longer it takes. The gear oil is just too viscous for the OD to engage when the oil is on the cold side and some running down the road fixes that. I rarely get the car out now in temperatures below 40°F which would exacerbate the problem.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 2 Years Ago
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I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler. The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover. Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger. It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part. I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold.
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By 62bigwindow - 2 Years Ago
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What kind of oil is everyone using? I've never had a issue with overdrive engagement in cold temps.
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By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
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You might also stick your finger into the fill port(s) and see what you pull out. How many decades since the box has been serviced?
SPEC calls for SAE No.40 weight engine oil (non-detergent) or SAE No. 80W GL-1, not a multi-grade. SAE No. 50 or SAE No. 90 GL-1 for extreme temperature operation (not snow country).
If the OD begins to operate after vehicle warmup driving, the lubricant is either fouled are too heavy. Wear can and will result ($$$).
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By 62bigwindow - 2 Years Ago
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https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NHF65201
This is what I've been using for about 6 years now. No issues whatsoever
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By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (12/6/2022)
I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler. The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover. Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger. It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part. I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold.
I’m assuming it’s the solenoid (likely needs cleaning). Plus, the issue mainly occurs at night, driving with the brights on (original 6V system). Just may not be enough juice left over to engage 20 yrs. of accumulated gum/sludge (internal seals/contact points don’t last forever). Since the relay is solid state converted, I won’t bother to change that now, as those electronics tend to either work or not. Good opportunity to change the solenoid-to-trans. seal also, and fill trans. with fresh mineral oil.
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By Daniel Jessup - 2 Years Ago
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I have used the 90 weight "tractor transmission fluid" from Tractor Supply with a lot of success over the last several years. It is 90 weight mineral oil. Back when I was reading up on all of this I was somewhat concerned about synchronizers, some of the dialogue about modern multi-weight oils eating them up, etc. To be on the safe side I went this route - no trouble in any temperature.
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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This is what I’m using:
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By Dobie - 2 Years Ago
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I think I'd shy away from the Red Line oil since it's for transaxles as well as transmissions. It's likely to contain hypoid additives for the transaxles.
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By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
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Dobie (12/7/2022)
I think I'd shy away from the Red Line oil since it's for transaxles as well as transmissions. It's likely to contain hypoid additives for the transaxles. You need to read their SPEC SHEET DOBIE. You want to get us kicked off again? ... 
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By Dobie - 2 Years Ago
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No, but it appears that you do. Transaxles typically share their oil between the transmission section and the final drive. The final drive gears are what need hypoid additives. Modern transmissions/transaxles don't contain any brass parts (synchronizers), so hypoid is safe to use in them. It is not safe for our transmissions.
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By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
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No, but it appears that you do.
... damn ...
Kinda snippy aren't we? Retaining water this week?
The product is fine for use. You need to get your reference materials upgraded since 1956. LUBE TECH has come a long way.
RED LINE MT-85 GL-1 - https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-85-75w85-gl-4-gear-oil
QUOTE - SAFE for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage.
Don't rain in the man's parade with false narratives.
Now we went over this time after time before and saw a native uprising and was shooed off.
OK, I'm leaving Ted, and no I won't let the door hit me in my a$$ ...
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By Dobie - 2 Years Ago
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OK, I stand corrected. However, I will stick with straight mineral oil as I've never had any issues with it and I have a lifetime supply of it.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Year
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DANIEL TINDER (12/7/2022)
Hoosier Hurricane (12/6/2022)
I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler. The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover. Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger. It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part. I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold. I’m assuming it’s the solenoid (likely needs cleaning). Plus, the issue mainly occurs at night, driving with the brights on (original 6V system). Just may not be enough juice left over to engage 20 yrs. of accumulated gum/sludge (internal seals/contact points don’t last forever). Since the relay is solid state converted, I won’t bother to change that now, as those electronics tend to either work or not. Good opportunity to change the solenoid-to-trans. seal also, and fill trans. with fresh mineral oil.
Well, I changed the fluid & installed my back-up solenoid (which solved the issue), but now, after after failing intermittently, ‘IT’ totally quit. I was too lazy to change the seal when I had the chance, or clean the old solenoid yet (it didn’t seem to be flooded), so now I’m screwed for awhile. A leaking seal was the reason the OD didn’t work when I first got the car 25 yrs. ago, so it looks like I’m back where I started. After I change it and clean/inspect both solenoids, I’ll report progress.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Last Year
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Go figure. Went for a test ride (80 degree weather)…. back-up OD solenoid working fine again. Turns out also, I HAD changed the seal but forgot (gettin old). Just not sure if I installed it correctly (it has a ‘side specific’ shape). Maybe if fluid leaked/fouled it (thus made balky in cold weather)), it drained out over time (?)..Must remember to clean/re-install the orig. unit though.
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By alanfreeman - Last Year
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Hi Daniel. You had better stock up on this stuff before you move to SoCal (if you can still get it where you live now) as I just bought the last two jugs which Tractor Supply had for sale on clearance @ $6.79 each, as it is being discontinued, at least in SoCal. Ala
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Year
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When my solenoid became balky, I took it apart and found a leather washer that acted as a stop when the solenoid was not actuated. That washer had become oil soaked and was sticky, which prevented easy actuation by the solenoid. Soaking the washer in gasoline and squeezing out the oil fixed the problem for me.
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By Daniel Jessup - Last Year
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alanfreeman (5/12/2023)
Hi Daniel. You had better stock up on this stuff before you move to SoCal (if you can still get it where you live now) as I just bought the last two jugs which Tractor Supply had for sale on clearance @ $6.79 each, as it is being discontinued, at least in SoCal. Ala
Too late  I am already out here in the Antelope Valley.
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By alanfreeman - Last Year
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Welcome Daniel to SoCal!
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By Daniel Jessup - Last Year
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Thanks! Glad to be here - I did check on the Tractor Supply in Palmdale. They still stock the tractor transmission fluid for $39.99. I may monitor that just to see if things do go on sale soon. Appreciate the heads up.
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