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Overdrive balky/non-functional in sub-freezing weather

Posted By DANIEL TINDER 2 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Anyone else having this issue?  Hard to test solutions as much of the time when cold enough, it’s also wet/slushy.  Starting with the obvious (relay fuse/contacts, solenoid connections, relay change, then solenoid change).  I’m thinking it’s unlikely to be a temp-related internal trans./OD issue, since once the engine is warm, so is the trans.
Sometimes the OD won’t engage until the engine gets warm, but on a recent sub-freezing drive, it never did. Anything I’ve overlooked?  The kick-down switch is fairly new, and functions normally.  I suppose cleaning those connections/contacts could be included eventually.  I will need to drive a fairly long distance trip this winter, and would hate to run at 3000+ revs. for very long on the highway.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
peeeot
Posted 2 Years Ago
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I have noticed similar behavior at cold but above-freezing temps. In my case I attributed it to the increased viscosity of the oil when colder. I’m sure the transmission warms up a good bit more slowly than the engine.

Last time I encountered this problem it seemed to increase in frequency until one day (like you) I couldn’t get the O/D no matter what. The fuse was blown. I was on my way home so I just made sure the solenoid and governor wires were clear of anything that might cause a short, replaced the fuse, and haven’t had a problem since.


1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive
Ted
Posted 2 Years Ago
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My ’55 Customline with the BW T85-OD trans is slow to go into overdrive when the gear oil is cold.  Typically okay in the hot summer months here in Texas but as soon as the temperature drops a little, it takes a little bit of running down the road before the overdrive will engage.  The colder the temperature, the longer it takes.   The gear oil is just too viscous for the OD to engage when the oil is on the cold side and some running down the road fixes that.  I rarely get the car out now in temperatures below 40°F which would exacerbate the problem.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 2 Years Ago
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I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler.  The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover.  Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger.  It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part.  I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold.

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62bigwindow
Posted 2 Years Ago
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What kind of oil is everyone using? I've never had a issue with overdrive engagement in cold temps.

Durham Missouri
KULTULZ
Posted 2 Years Ago
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You might also stick your finger into the fill port(s) and see what you pull out. How many decades since the box has been serviced?

SPEC calls for SAE No.40 weight engine oil (non-detergent) or SAE No. 80W GL-1, not a multi-grade. SAE No. 50 or SAE No. 90 GL-1 for extreme temperature operation (not snow country).

If the OD begins to operate after vehicle warmup driving, the lubricant is either fouled are too heavy.  Wear can and will result ($$$).



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62bigwindow
Posted 2 Years Ago
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https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NHF65201
This is what I've been using for about 6 years now. No issues whatsoever

Durham Missouri
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 2 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (12/6/2022)
I recently had a similar problem with the R-11 OD in my car hauler.  The fuse blew, so I took the solenoid out and took off the rear cover.  Things had a little oil on them, including a leather-like washer that was probably intended to be a cushion for the plunger.  It was sticky with oil and tended to remain stuck to the mating part.  I cleaned it thoroughly and it now works fine, hot or cold.


I’m assuming it’s the solenoid (likely needs cleaning). Plus, the issue mainly occurs at night, driving with the brights on (original 6V system).  Just may not be enough juice left over to engage 20 yrs. of accumulated gum/sludge (internal seals/contact points don’t last forever).  Since the relay is solid state converted, I won’t bother to change that now, as those electronics tend to either work or not.  Good opportunity to change the solenoid-to-trans. seal also, and fill trans. with fresh mineral oil.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Daniel Jessup
Posted 2 Years Ago
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I have used the 90 weight "tractor transmission fluid" from Tractor Supply with a lot of success over the last several years. It is 90 weight mineral oil. Back when I was reading up on all of this I was somewhat concerned about synchronizers, some of the dialogue about modern multi-weight oils eating them up, etc. To be on the safe side I went this route - no trouble in any temperature. 


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Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


peeeot
Posted 2 Years Ago
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This is what I’m using:


1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive


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