I think I'd shy away from the Red Line oil since it's for transaxles as well as transmissions. It's likely to contain hypoid additives for the transaxles.

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No, but it appears that you do. Transaxles typically share their oil between the transmission section and the final drive. The final drive gears are what need hypoid additives. Modern transmissions/transaxles don't contain any brass parts (synchronizers), so hypoid is safe to use in them. It is not safe for our transmissions.

No, but it appears that you do.

... damn ...

Kinda snippy aren't we? Retaining water this week?

The product is fine for use. You need to get your reference materials upgraded since 1956. LUBE TECH has come a long way.

RED LINE MT-85 GL-1 - https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-85-75w85-gl-4-gear-oil

QUOTE - SAFE for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage.

Don't rain in the man's parade with false narratives.

Now we went over this time after time before and saw a native uprising and was shooed off.

OK, I'm leaving Ted, and no I won't let the door hit me in my a$$ ...

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OK, I stand corrected. However, I will stick with straight mineral oil as I've never had any issues with it and I have a lifetime supply of it.

Well, I changed the fluid & installed my back-up solenoid (which solved the issue), but now, after after failing intermittently, ‘IT’ totally quit.  I was too lazy to change the seal when I had the chance, or clean the old solenoid yet (it didn’t seem to be flooded), so now I’m screwed for awhile.  A leaking seal was the reason the OD didn’t work when I first got the car 25 yrs. ago, so it looks like I’m back where I started.  After I change it and clean/inspect both solenoids, I’ll report progress.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Go figure.  Went for a test ride (80 degree weather)…. back-up OD solenoid working fine again.  Turns out also, I HAD changed the seal but forgot (gettin old). Just not sure if I installed it correctly (it has a ‘side specific’ shape). Maybe if fluid leaked/fouled it (thus made balky in cold weather)), it drained out over time (?)..Must remember to clean/re-install the orig. unit though.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Hi Daniel.  You had better stock up on this stuff before you move to SoCal (if you can still get it where you live now) as I just bought the last two jugs which Tractor Supply had for sale on clearance @ $6.79 each, as it is being discontinued, at least in SoCal.  Ala

When my solenoid became balky, I took it apart and found a leather washer that acted as a stop when the solenoid was not actuated.  That washer had become oil soaked and was sticky, which prevented easy actuation by the solenoid.  Soaking the washer in gasoline and squeezing out the oil fixed the problem for me.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Too late  I am already out here in the Antelope Valley.

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com