|
Author
|
Message
|
|
Deyomatic
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 265,
Visits: 1.7K
|
Great. Thanks for all the advice.
|
|
|
|
|
Ted
|
|
|
Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.0K
|
DryLakesRacer (3/13/2022)
Ted have you ever restricted the flow thru the bypass hose? I have restricted the flow at the bypass hose or bypass hole on other engines but never saw the need to do so on the Ford Y. Most heating problems on my end center around the lack of air flow through the radiator and/or inadequate water flow at low rpm. Once those two issues are taken care of, heating issues are typically taken care of thus not requiring to go so far as to put a restriction in the bypass hose.
I don’t own a Thunderbird though and if I did, I might consider it if I had a heating issue. With some of the recent advances in the one inch spacer plate technology for the Thunderbird engines, the need for a restriction at the bypass hose may or may not still be needed. On the flip side of all this, the SBC circle track engines tend to like that bypass hole in the block behind the water pump restricted or blocked to aid in cooling. As long as the thermostat is open, I don’t see a problem with cavitation issues.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
|
|
|
|
|
DryLakesRacer
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
|
Ted have you ever restricted the flow thru the bypass hose?
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
|
|
|
|
|
Ted
|
|
|
Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.0K
|
I typically just drill a 1/8” hole in the thermostat if it doesn’t already have a bleed hole in it and let the air purge out using that hole that while filling the system. The other option is to just crank the engine up and once the thermostat opens, continue filling the coolant system.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
|
|
|
|
|
Deyomatic
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 265,
Visits: 1.7K
|
I am really leaning (hoping) my issue is just air in the system.
I busted out my 1960 Truck Shop manual and it says that when you're refilling the system you should fill the cooling system and then disconnect the heater hose on the water pump to let the air bleed out of the system until the coolant comes out. Is this something you guys all do, or should I just refill it and run it without a radiator cap until the thermostat opens, and then top off?
Is it the "6 of one, half-dozen of the other" situation?
|
|
|
|
|
DryLakesRacer
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
|
I can agree the stock bypass line CAN allow more water into the radiator IF the thermostat is open to the capacity of the thermostat and the amount of coolant from the cylinder heads into the housing PLUS the bypass hose and not leaving coolant in the engine to recirculate and not go thru the radiator. This was engineered by Ford in 1954 and never changed much until the engine design was retired.
The bypass hose is receiving hot coolant from the intake just as the thermostat housing does. When the thermostat is closed it allows more circulation in a closed system as the radiator is not in the equation yet. As I understand it there would definitely be more cavitation if it was totally blocked. since my intake is currently off I am willing to try the bypass hose without a restriction. Before I knew I had no coolant flow thru the radiator I added the plug with the hole thinking I was not letting hot coolant reach the radiator so it could do it’s job.
There must be coolant flow at idle thru the radiator when the thermostat is open and that’s the point of the smaller pulley. Mine had very little to none which is why the smaller pulley solved so many idling in traffic problems discussed at length hear over the years. On this site I’ve read that Ford used 7 different diameter YBlock water pump pulleys. This could definitely be the reason some of us have idle overheating problems.
I’m always open to making our engines more reliable. As I once stated. Since 1955 when our family owned a 55 and 56 new with no problems cooling even traveling thru the desert in the summertime is the gasoline.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
|
|
|
|
|
2721955meteor
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
Visits: 190.0K
|
DryLakesRacer (3/9/2022)
As a response to the smaller pulley. My 56 could over heat on an 80* day in city traffic. I have an excellent brass/copper radiator, 6 blade fan, hi-flow thermostat, and fan shroud. I also added the front core structure over the radiator sealed to the hood so all air went thru the radiator. A stock Ford part On the advice of a member here. He told me to start with the engine cold, cap off, and coolant 1” down in the rad tank. Idle the engine until you are positive the the thermostat is open, (I did with a thermo gun) check for coolant movement by looking in the tank, there was none, slightly raise idle maybe 50 rpm, look in the rad tank again, there was movement. PROBLEM SOLVED. No water was moving through the radiator to cool the engine at idle at all. A fully open bypass would make more coolant circulate thru the engine without cooling it.
As for a restriction in the bypass, that’s all it is and when the thermostat opens more coolant passes through the radiator cooling it. As for water pump speed, in my case I changed the rear end from a 3.21 to a 2.74. On the freeways I’m taching 2200 max 400 lower than original which negates the water pump speed increase. I cannot see the possibility of cavitation in my engine causing a problem since my engine runs at a lower rpm than stock.
|
|
|
|
|
2721955meteor
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
Visits: 190.0K
|
DryLakesRacer (3/9/2022)
As a response to the smaller pulley. My 56 could over heat on an 80* day in city traffic. I have an excellent brass/copper radiator, 6 blade fan, hi-flow thermostat, and fan shroud. I also added the front core structure over the radiator sealed to the hood so all air went thru the radiator. A stock Ford part On the advice of a member here. He told me to start with the engine cold, cap off, and coolant 1” down in the rad tank. Idle the engine until you are positive the the thermostat is open, (I did with a thermo gun) check for coolant movement by looking in the tank, there was none, slightly raise idle maybe 50 rpm, look in the rad tank again, there was movement. PROBLEM SOLVED. No water was moving through the radiator to cool the engine at idle at all. A fully open bypass would make more coolant circulate thru the engine without cooling it.
As for a restriction in the bypass, that’s all it is and when the thermostat opens more coolant passes through the radiator cooling it. As for water pump speed, in my case I changed the rear end from a 3.21 to a 2.74. On the freeways I’m taching 2200 max 400 lower than original which negates the water pump speed increase. I cannot see the possibility of cavitation in my engine causing a problem since my engine runs at a lower rpm than stock.
|
|
|
|
|
DryLakesRacer
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
|
As a response to the smaller pulley. My 56 could over heat on an 80* day in city traffic. I have an excellent brass/copper radiator, 6 blade fan, hi-flow thermostat, and fan shroud. I also added the front core structure over the radiator sealed to the hood so all air went thru the radiator. A stock Ford part On the advice of a member here. He told me to start with the engine cold, cap off, and coolant 1” down in the rad tank. Idle the engine until you are positive the the thermostat is open, (I did with a thermo gun) check for coolant movement by looking in the tank, there was none, slightly raise idle maybe 50 rpm, look in the rad tank again, there was movement. PROBLEM SOLVED. No water was moving through the radiator to cool the engine at idle at all. A fully open bypass would make more coolant circulate thru the engine without cooling it.
As for a restriction in the bypass, that’s all it is and when the thermostat opens more coolant passes through the radiator cooling it. As for water pump speed, in my case I changed the rear end from a 3.21 to a 2.74. On the freeways I’m taching 2200 max 400 lower than original which negates the water pump speed increase. I cannot see the possibility of cavitation in my engine causing a problem since my engine runs at a lower rpm than stock.
|
|
|
|
|
charliemccraney
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.1K,
Visits: 441.2K
|
A smaller pulley increases pump speed. That increases coolant flow and airflow, if a mechanical fan is used..
Lawrenceville, GA
|
|
|
|