UPDATE:
There was no thermostat in the car (1930 Model A) so I found it a little odd that it was able to run so cool with the smaller water pump pulley.  

When I got it: It ran hot according to the temp gauge in the thermostat housing and in the rear of the driver's side head- whatever it says up top.
I swapped in the smaller water pump pulley and it cooled it right off- about 160* or so around town and on longer trips.

I put in a 180* thermostat (which I checked in water on the stove top- opened about 185 or so).
I finally got a chance to let it run today and the temp just climbed up and got to about where it was before- 220 in the thermostat housing and in the head.  

Now I'm clueless.  I expected it to stay pinned around 190 or so all day long.  

33 minutes after running it I used a laser temp gun to check the radiator temps- top was about 113* and bottom was 75.  Is this normal?  Upper hose was hot, lower was luke warm.

I drained it again and ran distilled water through the filler with the lower hose off and it drained out pretty quickly and was crystal clear so I don't think it's plugged up. 

I was thinking of trying a 165* thermostat and/or doing that trick where you "plug" the bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing- what was that trick again- a pipe plug with a hole in it, or something? 
Or should I just 86 the thermostat altogether, again?  I want the oil to get warm enough to evaporate any condensation, which is why I went with the 180* unit.  
I just want to be able to get in and drive it!    
 
Thanks in advance for any advice.  

Did it reach 220 during a normal drive or only idling?



Lawrenceville, GA

Both.  I let it cool off for about a half hour then took it around the block and down the highway- I was thinking that getting the RPMs up would spin the water pump faster and cool it off but it didn't really work out.  

I was wondering if there may have been an air bubble or something but I am guessing that bypass hose keeps that from happening.  

Deyomatic           
Not sure of the mounting of your radiator in relation to the engine, if it sits lower or level with the height of the engine it may have an air pocket.  
If it is you may want to go to your local parts store and get one of those funnel kits that attach to the radiator to allow you to  keep the  antifreeze above the height of the engine.
Fill the system, keep the antifreeze in the funnel about half way and let the engine run till the thermostat opens completely and circulates.  
I have tried to find a thermostat for the y engine that has the little bleeder in it to help with bleeding the air out but have not found one.  
You might also try wedging a screwdriver in between the upper radiator hose and the radiator fill the system until antifreeze come out of the opening between the hose and radiator 
Just some ideas if you have a air pocket issue.  Hope this helps. 

Located in Harford County Maryland 

Ford had a service bulletin at one time, a neat trick to avoid air pockets after a coolant refill. Take a piece of hard candy, such as a lemon drop or butterscotch, and jam the thermostat spring open. It will eventually dissolve, but allow for equalization during the initial run. Another method is to run the engine at a nose up attitude, using ramps.

Engines found without any Thermostat installed often indicate an overheating problem or other cooling system troubles in the past. By '64 Ford was using 192° F. temp thermostats, I can't really see any benefit to running cooler engine temperatures. If there is cooling system restriction due to scale or sediment rust in the block it will overheat no matter what.

It seems the smaller pulley and a 1/8” hole a plug put in the bypass line has cured a city driving/idling problem with most of our y-blocks. I blame it on the fuel at least here in California in with their summer blend since it’s the only difference from 60 years ago. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

1 DO NOT CHANGE THE BYPASS HOSE OR SIZE,IT ELIMINATES CAVITATION. GOOD QUALITY ANTY FREEZE HELPS STOP CAVITATION AND EROSION.FACTORY TEMP LOCATION IS NOT ACURATE,THE BEST LOCATION IS RIGHT BEFORE THE STAT.MOST OF THE HEAT BUILD IS IN THE HEADS.
SPEEDING UP THE PUMP IS NOT WISE,AND USUALY CREATES CAVITATION. IF TEMP IS HIGHER AT TOP OF RAD THAN BOTTEM YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS WORKING. IS YOU SHOW 180 AT REAR OF HEAD(FACTORY SPOT  FOR SENDING UNIT THE TEMP WILL BE HIGHER AT STATHOUSING

THER HAS BIN MUCH CONTRAVERSEY ABOUT THIS TOPIC. IN THE PAST. MESSING WITH  BYPASS AND PUMP SPEED WILL CREATE CAVITATION,THAT WILL ERODE BLOCK AND HEADS,EFECTING THIN SPOTS AT REAR CYLENDERS  WHER WATER CHANGES DIRECTIONS , PURCHASES SEVERAL CORES FROM CA WHER 4ANS 8 NEEDED SLEEVES DUE TO CAVITATION

Let me see about some of the questions.  The Thermostat is just whatever NAPA had for a '59 Fairlane.  The radiator cap is likely high enough.  I DID NOT run it with the cap off the first time so maybe it's just air bubbles?  I will try that next.
I only run Prestone for antifreeze mixed with distilled water.  

I keep trying to add it up- no thermostat and large pulley ran hot (about like it is now) and stayed hot.  Swapped the smaller pulley in and it stayed around 165*.  What changed?  Just the volume of water flowing, right?  
With the 180* thermostat it heats up and stays hot again.  When it hits 180*, it should open and cool off but it isn't doing that.  COULD it be air bubbles?

A smaller pulley increases pump speed.  That increases coolant flow and airflow, if a mechanical fan is used..



Lawrenceville, GA

As a response to the smaller pulley. My 56 could over heat on an 80* day in city traffic. I have an excellent brass/copper radiator, 6 blade fan, hi-flow thermostat, and fan shroud. I also added the front core structure over the radiator sealed  to the hood so all air went thru the radiator. A stock Ford part 
 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.