I went to my friends shop and had the reducer sleeve modified.  Now the fingers clear the sleeve and there is no more noise!

However, I've discovered another problem.  The throwout bearing hub is too wide and has no play between the fingers of the pressure plate and the transmission.  So the clutch slips.  I don't know if this is the case with every T5 or just the Ford Racing T5.  I had noticed that getting the transmission the last 1/16" was difficult.  I just did not notice why until today.

Anyhow, after seeing this I figured it would slip but I had to take it for a drive around the block.  Even with the clutch slipping it felt awesome!  I think, once I have it all figured out, it will be about the same magnitude as the new engine last year!

So the next step is to find out how much shorter the bearing hub has to be and, probably, to have a hub made.  I don't think the stock hub could be reliably made shorter.  Is there a minimum or maximum freeplay I should aim for.  I think 1/8" shorter will do the trick.

I did get a good video for youtube.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-N1uP7m3b4  And I'm working on the Y-block Shootout videos.  I have 4 up so far.

Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie,

        Is it possible another throwout bearing or pressure plate would be shorter?

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

That's an idea. Sticking with the truck pressure plate, there aren't many options but a thinner bearing may be possible. Timken has catalogs online. I'll browse those to see if a thinner bearing for some other clutch application will work.

Does anyone have access to a T5 mustang clutch and can get some measurements, possibly as installed? I think diaphragm plates are thinner than the long plates but I'll still have to deal with fitting a smaller diameter throwout bearing. The throwout bearing used in mustangs looks similar to the truck bearing - just shorter. Does anyone have one and can measure the clutch fork groove diameter and width? Maybe it will work with my fork.



Edit: Well, I've looked through the catalog. The bearings that have a bore diameter that will work vary in thickness by a few 100ths which I do not think will be enough. What grade steel do you all think is suitable for the bearing hub? I can pick up 1018, 1117, 12L14, 1215, 1045, and 1144 locally. Chrome-moly is also available but I don't think it is necessary. I'm thinking about going with 1144.


Lawrenceville, GA

or 1045, either.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

thanks, Frank.

It just occured to me that I'm assuming the 86 - 93 Mustang Pressure plate will just bolt up to my flywheel.  Anyone know if this is the case?  They use the 10.4" diaphragm clutch.  I'm using an 11" long clutch.

Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie,

        I dunno! Maybe a parts store would let you match one up to your Long PP.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The Mustang pressure plates typically use metric bolts of the non-shouldered variety and use three dowel pins equally spaced to maintain pressure plate alignment on the flywheel.  If the pressure plate bolt holes can be made to match up with the existing threaded holes in the Y flywheel, then the holes in the pressure plate may have to be made slightly larger in which to accommodate the shouldered bolts.  If only three of the holes align up, then it's easy enough to drill and tap the remaining three holes using the original three as a centering reference.  I’m an old hand at redrilling flywheels for completely new pressure plate bolt patterns when the bolt holes do not line up so that’s a possibility also.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks, Ted. I remember that now. Is that the case with all diaphragm plates? My flywheel is one of the billet ones sold by Mummert and it has 2 bolt patterns. I think the other is for a diaphragm but I can't remember. I need to give him a call.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie,

       You reminded me of something, I've got one of Mummert's wheels also. I'm using a diaphragm pressure plate with a Kevlar disc behind it. I know the diaphragm isn't supposed to be strong enough for anything serious, but it works, breaks u-joints! Anyhow you can get a diaphragm from a local driveline dealer or if that fails I'll get one fom South Bend Clutch or Fort Wayne and ship it......or try RAM, they're in NC. The real question is, is it shorter? John Mummert might have that answer too.     

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I spoke with John.  The second pattern is for the mustang 10.5" clutch.  So that will make things easy.  He also has an adapter for using the truck clutch fork with the mustang bearing but I'll still see what I can come up with.


Lawrenceville, GA