Following.

At the minimum:
Modified Bellhousing
New clutch disk
Throwout bearing reducer
T5 transmission
Change drive shaft length - probably shorten.
cut a hole in the floor for the shifter
Shifter boot

May need:
Diaphragm clutch
Truck/mustang hybrid throwout bearing.
Shifter and handle.
crossmember

I think that's it.

Update 05/28/09:

Depending on the application from which the transmission was taken, a different pilot bearing may be required. See the following thread.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic27151.aspx

12/23/09:
A more DIY approach.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic36580.aspx

Update 07/24/10:

More people have done this conversion now, and it looks like the problem I was having with using the stock throwout bearing has to do with T5s equipped with a steel bearing retainer for the input shaft. The forging (or casting?) protrudes a fair bit further than the aluminum retainer and does not allow any clearance for the length of the stock bearing. If your input bearing retainer looks like this you will not be able to use the stock bearing and pressure plate:



This requires the use of a special throwout bearing and a completely different clutch than stock.

03/16/2014:
Installation in a 1955 F100.
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1287451-getting-ready-for-t5-swap.html

10/29/2014
Another DIY, and some S10 tailhousing info
http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12055

6/17/2016
Installing a hydraulic clutch for '61-'64 F series.
http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=30263

1/10/2017
Installation into a 1955 TBird
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic119969.aspx


Lawrenceville, GA

Here are a few more pics illustrating the difference between the height of the diaphragm plate and the long plate.

And here are some showing Mummerts truck T5 bearing compared to the stock with the reducer sleeve installed.

The bearings hubs are about the same height but the diaphragm plate comes out about 1/2" shorter at the fingers so there is plenty of room.  All of the linkage seems to work fine.  I have about 50 miles on it now - been driving it every day - and it is great.  I can tell the engine really likes it.  So now, those of you contemplating a T5 swap should have a very good idea what will be involved.  It's not as difficult as you might think and it's definitely worth the time, sweat, and money.

Lawrenceville, GA

Well, I got it together and took it for a spin.  It's great!  1, 2, and 3 pull harder because of the torque multiplication.  4th is the same as the 3 spds 3rd.  I got out on the highway for a few miles and I was only doing 2000 RPM while keeping up with everyone.  I'm not sure how fast I was going.  The speedo said 70 but it seems to be reading fast.  However, 70 is about the right speed on the highway around here.  In 3rd with the old transmission 2000rpm was about 40 mph.  Now in 4th, at 2000rpm it says about 50.  So I probably need to get a different driven gear.

So, if you do this conversion get some clutch kit with a diaphragm plate.  If you can afford it, have your flywheel drilled for the 1986 - 1993 mustang or, even better, get one of Mummert's billet flywheels which are already drilled, so you open the door to a seemingly limitless number of aftermarket options.  Also get one of Mummerts throwout bearing assemblies.  It is a hub which uses a mustang bearing and allows the use of the trucks fork.  And always make sure the flywheel is flat - even if it is bran new - and get it balanced - It will be worth the extra money.

I'll add some pictures and try for a more fluid and clear post later.  I'm tired and I'm going to bed. 

Lawrenceville, GA

Well, that's just one more to add to the positive things said about the Dual Friction. It's a wild looking clutch disc - for me, anyway. The only thing I don't like is they want 450 to 500 miles of in town driving for break in before full power is applied. It will be tough holding out that long!



Mines primarily a street driver so I don't think I'll break the transmission. The T5 has a pretty good aftermarket, though. If I do break it I'll probably have it upgraded by G-force or some similar company. Plus the T5 is lighter and, I hear, requires less power to drive than a TKO in stock form. I don't know how the modified versions compare. Then I won't have to go through all this fitment and installation stuff again.

I can't wait to get it on the highway to see how it does.


Lawrenceville, GA

Pat:       Changing the subject,  How difficult was the change over to the

       Tremec transmission from the t-5? My F-100 has the hyd. clutch and

       I am using Mummert's adapter.   

                                            Thx Bill

Bill

Pelham,Al

You will like the Dual Friction Centerforce after it gets broke in.

I used the 10.5" 5.0 mustang application on one of Mummert's steel flywheels.

I cannot believe how tough that clutch is!  I have really abused it and have a ton of street miles as well as dragstrip launches and it does not miss a beat.

The clutch worked so well I was able to break a bunch of T5's until I went to the Tremec TKO.

Powershifting into 3rd is where the T5's let go, so be gentle on the 2-3rd shift with a T5 and it should last awhile. It was knocking the teeth right of the gears.

You will love 5th gear on the highway.  Mine cruizes at 2150 at exactly 70 mph with 4:11's and 30" tall rear tires.

The low first gear is a major plus driving around town as well.

Pat Fleischman

Thanks Greg!  I went with 20ft/lbs.  The throwout bearing should be here Thursday.  Hopefully It'll be the last time I have to put the transmission up!


Lawrenceville, GA

My Mustang manual states 12 - 24 ft lbs PP to Flywheel, all years - Fox body.

1964 F 100 LWB Roller 5.0 & T-5

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train



"I still have a Y block - it's just not in anything yet."

I picked up a Centerforce Dual Friction.  I've heard a  lot of good about them.  And it should be strong enough for future plans.  What is the torque for the 8mm bolts that hold the Mustang PP?


Lawrenceville, GA