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capelo
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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very good guys, thanks for the comments I have a question that I have to ask to lower the revolutions when starting cold and how I reduce the time it is accelerating, when I use it it is not so cold and when starting every time it is too much accelerating 1500rpm and so it seems to me too long
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Ted
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Are you using the electric choke? If so, then there is a screw located behind and under the choke coil for the hi-speed idle that can be adjusted to bring the cold start rpm speed down. Backing off the choke coil adjustment can help to speed up and/or reduce the amount of time that the choke is actually activated. The power source for the electric choke needs to be from a switched ‘ON’ connection and a constant 12 volt supply. Under no circumstances should the electric choke power supply be siphoned off of the power supply feeding the coil. Also insure that you have good ground on the engine that in some form connects to the battery.
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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capelo
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Ted (6/5/2020)
Are you using the electric choke? If so, then there is a screw located behind and under the choke coil for the hi-speed idle that can be adjusted to bring the cold start rpm speed down. Backing off the choke coil adjustment can help to speed up and/or reduce the amount of time that the choke is actually activated. The power source for the electric choke needs to be from a switched ‘ON’ connection and a constant 12 volt supply. Under no circumstances should the electric choke power supply be siphoned off of the power supply feeding the coil. Also insure that you have good ground on the engine that in some form connects to the battery. Yes, the choke is electric, in the image you can see the connection
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oldcarmark
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Power for the Choke should be directly from Ignition Switch Accessory Terminal.. Should also have an inline Fuse to protect the Circuit.

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NY59F100
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Capelo,
Is that a two-pronged voltage reducer? It looks like you have power run to one post on the reducer and power coming off the two prongs to power the coil and the electric choke. Like Ted and Oldcarmark said, the power must be direct from the ignition. Don’t split power off to power both the coil and the electric choke. Run separate wires.
Soffian Adam Jamestown, NY 59 F100, 55 Club sedan
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capelo
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Group: Forum Members
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NY59F100 (6/9/2020)
Capelo, Is that a two-pronged voltage reducer? It looks like you have power run to one post on the reducer and power coming off the two prongs to power the coil and the electric choke. Like Ted and Oldcarmark said, the power must be direct from the ignition. Don’t split power off to power both the coil and the electric choke. Run separate wires. thanks guys for the tips so i will 👍
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capelo
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Ted
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While those spark plugs appear to be burning cleanly, they still look like a lot of idle time and/or the engine is running on the cold side. Had the engine been at temperature just prior to removing the plugs for examination? What temperature thermostat are you running?
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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capelo
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Ted (9/11/2020)
While those spark plugs appear to be burning cleanly, they still look like a lot of idle time and/or the engine is running on the cold side. Had the engine been at temperature just prior to removing the plugs for examination? What temperature thermostat are you running? Thanks Ted, the engine had been stopped for five days, I have a thermostat but I'm not sure I know how much it is but I think it's 180f
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Ted
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It’s usually best to check spark plug coloring immediately after doing some road driving. A 180°F thermostat is the recommended heat range for most Y’s. A 160°F thermostat can be on the cool side and may not permit condensation that forms inside the engine to burn off adequately and especially if the engine is not ran for longer periods or used just for short hops. Other than that, how does the engine run when you jump into the throttle?
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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