Hoosier hurricane, you brought up a very excellent point! When I first got the car. It had a different PCV valve on it. It was from an early Corvette engine. I tried to find another one but the few that are in remaining, guys want very big dollars for them! So, the current one I have is from a Y block..I guess I should try block blocking the PCV valve off just to see if it makes a difference. Very good point!

You shouldn't hook the PVC to the Brake booster line

That may be the "Vacuum Leak" causing the Problem. Disconnect and Plug for now and get the Carb Problem fixed first then work on the PCV. after the Carbs are sorted out..The 3 x 2 Manifold I have has a Vacuum outlet in the Middle like Yours and another at the back of Manifold like ECZ-B have..Really not the best Setup to have PCV and Brake Booster connected together.

  

I didn't have any more vacuum ports so I had to tee off to the PCV.so you feel I should add another vacuum ports?

You got any thoughts for a triple Port vacuum?

What I did notice is if I cover the rear outboard carburetor up completely with my hand, it will stall! I had these carburetors reworked by vintage speed to cure this problem. My main concern is why I still have to run with the center choke almost closed?

The rear carb throttle plate is not closing all the way. That is why you have to choke the center to get it to run at all. Disconnect the progressive linkage and see if you can adjust the rear throttle plate all the way closed. If not, there is a defect you need to find whether a warped plate or it was re-installed off center.

Get the set to idle correctly then attach and adjust the linkages.

If you have a fuel gauge on the set, that is where you insert the pressure check gauge. Verify and correct fuel pressure/delivery.

If you use a single vacuum source on both PCV and PB, the system may send ingested crankcase fumes into the PB causing the diaphragm to fail.

Are the end carbs have operational idle circuits or are they dumpers?

Worry about the PCV after you get it running.

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Charlie,

You were right on the earlier discussion of that fancy store-bought adjustable PCV VALVE. I thought it was too much money for a regular street car but now I see the reason(s) to get up off the duckets. There is no guessing and stops the continual valve swaps. It is also endlessly adjustable allowing it to be re-calibrated as the engine wears.

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Both outer carbs just there to dump fuel.
They have no mixture screws or power valves. I have a very good vacuum at idle 20 lb. But first things first ,I need to check that fuel pressure. I tried disconnecting both outer carbs. But it would not run it all. When I removed them and used block off plates it ran perfectly fine. But my objective is to have all three carburetors working...

I tried disconnecting both outer carbs. But it would not run it all. When I removed them and used block off plates it ran perfectly fine. But my objective is to have all three carburetors

When you say 'disconnect', are you referring to linkage removal or fuel supply? If it ran with block-off plates, the end carb(s) is the problem(s). If you choke the forward carb as you did the rear, will it run?

Usually, the end carbs used as dumpers allow no air past at idle unless the thing is camed.

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Shut the fuel off to both end carburetors. Engine would not run. That's what I used block off plates on both ends. And no it is stock can.