Y block trips!


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By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Got a rebuilt y block, it has "trips".
3 Ford script "94". The center carb.
Has choke, 52 jet's. The 2 out board
No choke 49 jet's. The carbs or just rebuilt by a well-known rebuilder. The issue I'm having is: in order for the car to run I have to have the choke pulled out more than halfway. It has a stock fuel pump with a fuel pressure gauge. I have it set for 3 pounds. But it doesn't seem to hold a steady pressure I had a lot of times it will go all the way down to zero.
So what do you guys think about me having to run with this choke on?
Thanks
By oldcarmark - Last Year
What are You using for a Regulator? Try running without Regulator and see what that does. Maybe Carbs are not getting a Constant supply of Gas if the Gauge is reading correctly.?
By KULTULZ - Last Year
The issue I'm having is: in order for the car to run I have to have the choke pulled out more than halfway. It has a stock fuel pump with a fuel pressure gauge. I have it set for 3 pounds. But it doesn't seem to hold a steady pressure I had a lot of times it will go all the way down to zero.


You need to first verify pressure and volume supply with a QUALITY MECHANICS fuel pressure tester.
By oldcarmark - Last Year
KULTULZ (8/7/2019)
The issue I'm having is: in order for the car to run I have to have the choke pulled out more than halfway. It has a stock fuel pump with a fuel pressure gauge. I have it set for 3 pounds. But it doesn't seem to hold a steady pressure I had a lot of times it will go all the way down to zero.


You need to first verify pressure and volume supply with a QUALITY MECHANICS fuel pressure tester.

If You have a Vacuum Gauge most also read Pressure. U should be able to "T" into Fuel line between Pump and Car to verify Pressure.
By paul2748 - Last Year
If you have to have the choke out, it usually means a vacuum leak.  Check the hoilddown bolts in the intake and carbs as  well as any source that have vacuum or item that is vacuum operated.  Check all vacuum lines.

Could also be a carb float that isn't right.  Even pros make mistakes.  Running progressive linkage?
By Cliff - Last Year
3lbs is not enough, I run 4-5
By oldcarmark - Last Year
I have a Standard Carter Fuel Pump on mine for an early 60's 352. Maximum Pressure seems to be 4.5-5.5 so really my Pressure Regulator is not doing much except smoothing out Pulses from the Fuel Pump. My Holley Carb is Happy-no Flooding.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Thanks for all the replies guys! Yes I am running progressive linkage! haven't been able to check the fuel pressure yet can't find a place to tap-in it's feasible. What I did notice is if I cover the rear outboard carburetor up completely with my hand, it will stall! I had these carburetors reworked by vintage speed to cure this problem. My main concern is why I still have to run with the center choke almost closed?
By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Year
Is that black vacuum hose connected to a PCV?  If so, try plugging it and see if you still have to run with the choke on.  Too big a PCV acts the same as a vacuum leak.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
That black vacuum hose has two purposes, it does connect to the PCV valve, but it also supplies vacuum for my brake booster.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Hoosier hurricane, you brought up a very excellent point! When I first got the car. It had a different PCV valve on it. It was from an early Corvette engine. I tried to find another one but the few that are in remaining, guys want very big dollars for them! So, the current one I have is from a Y block..I guess I should try block blocking the PCV valve off just to see if it makes a difference. Very good point!
By Cliff - Last Year
You shouldn't hook the PVC to the Brake booster line
By oldcarmark - Last Year
'49 bomb! (8/8/2019)
That black vacuum hose has two purposes, it does connect to the PCV valve, but it also supplies vacuum for my brake booster.

That may be the "Vacuum Leak" causing the Problem. Disconnect and Plug for now and get the Carb Problem fixed first then work on the PCV. after the Carbs are sorted out..The 3 x 2 Manifold I have has a Vacuum outlet in the Middle like Yours and another at the back of Manifold like ECZ-B have..Really not the best Setup to have PCV and Brake Booster connected together.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
I didn't have any more vacuum ports so I had to tee off to the PCV.so you feel I should add another vacuum ports?
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
You got any thoughts for a triple Port vacuum?
By KULTULZ - Last Year
What I did notice is if I cover the rear outboard carburetor up completely with my hand, it will stall! I had these carburetors reworked by vintage speed to cure this problem. My main concern is why I still have to run with the center choke almost closed?


The rear carb throttle plate is not closing all the way. That is why you have to choke the center to get it to run at all. Disconnect the progressive linkage and see if you can adjust the rear throttle plate all the way closed. If not, there is a defect you need to find whether a warped plate or it was re-installed off center.

Get the set to idle correctly then attach and adjust the linkages.

If you have a fuel gauge on the set, that is where you insert the pressure check gauge. Verify and correct fuel pressure/delivery.

If you use a single vacuum source on both PCV and PB, the system may send ingested crankcase fumes into the PB causing the diaphragm to fail.

Are the end carbs have operational idle circuits or are they dumpers?

Worry about the PCV after you get it running.
By KULTULZ - Last Year
Charlie,

You were right on the earlier discussion of that fancy store-bought adjustable PCV VALVE. I thought it was too much money for a regular street car but now I see the reason(s) to get up off the duckets. There is no guessing and stops the continual valve swaps. It is also endlessly adjustable allowing it to be re-calibrated as the engine wears.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Both outer carbs just there to dump fuel.
They have no mixture screws or power valves. I have a very good vacuum at idle 20 lb. But first things first ,I need to check that fuel pressure. I tried disconnecting both outer carbs. But it would not run it all. When I removed them and used block off plates it ran perfectly fine. But my objective is to have all three carburetors working...
By KULTULZ - Last Year
I tried disconnecting both outer carbs. But it would not run it all. When I removed them and used block off plates it ran perfectly fine. But my objective is to have all three carburetors


When you say 'disconnect', are you referring to linkage removal or fuel supply? If it ran with block-off plates, the end carb(s) is the problem(s). If you choke the forward carb as you did the rear, will it run?

Usually, the end carbs used as dumpers allow no air past at idle unless the thing is camed.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Shut the fuel off to both end carburetors. Engine would not run. That's what I used block off plates on both ends. And no it is stock can.
By paul2748 - Last Year
When running on the single carb, was the PCV valve taken off?  As noted, if the PCV valve is not right, could contribute to the choke thing as was mentioned.  PCV valves are usually connected to venturii vacuum.  Your set up is not correct.

Check the throttle plates on the two outer carbs - do they close completly?  They should.

Early Ford carbs can't stand much pressure.  Usually most is about 2 1/2 PSI. 
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
When running on just a single carb, I did not have the PCV valve blocked off.as far as the throttle plates being completely closed,I have to reiterate again these carburetors were reworked by vintage speed, I'm quite sure that he has those throttle plates closing completely.as far as fuel pressure that's why I'm only running about 3 pounds because I heard two and a half to three is all that is necessary.
There were a lot of good suggestions that I need to try, but I need to figure out a way to get more PCV fittings. I have too many items running off of "T" off vacuum lines.. I need a fitting with at least 2 -3/8 in ports. Oneport would be for the PCV valve.the other Port would be for the brake booster. Then I need two smaller probably 1/4" ports. 1 Port for the vacuum advance and the other one for the automatic transmission vacuum. Then on top of it all it has to be small enough to fit between the two carburetorsWho's got an idea where I can get a fitting like this?
By charliemccraney - Last Year
If you want to fix the problem, stop assuming what others have done and verify that the throttle plates are closing.  Even pros make mistakes once in a while.

The easiest solution for your vacuum ports is to find or make a carburetor spacer with them.
By KULTULZ - Last Year
https://www.plews-edelmann.com/assets/1/7/AutomotiveFittings_90078.pdf
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Great job kultulz! I always enjoy reading your post!
By paul2748 - Last Year
Available aftermarket is a spacer plate for under the carb (94 3 bolt) for a PCV.  I don't have any info on it, seen a dozen times.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Tried blocking off the PCV. Hoping that might help, but no difference. And yes I verified the throttle plates are completely closed by removing the
Linkage! As for fuel pressure, it's getting
Enough, the bowl gaskets are wet. So,I don't want to add any more pressure.
I am at a loss for this one...
By Ted - Last Year
'49 bomb! (8/8/2019)
Shut the fuel off to both end carburetors. Engine would not run. That's what I used block off plates on both ends. And no it is stock can.

I'm still not clear on this.  To block off the rear carbs, they need to be lifted and solid gaskets or shim stock put under them.  Then you are truly on the center carb only.  Your problem sounds like an issue with the center carb but still sounds like too much air from the end carbs.  Low float level comes to mind first and after that, an air leak around some of the air bleed / fuel discharge gaskets around the venturies.  Pulling the end carbs and looking through them will help to verify that the throttle blades are indeed fully closed.  Assume nothing at this point.
By KULTULZ - Last Year
Pulling the end carbs and looking through them will help to verify that the throttle blades are indeed fully closed.  Assume nothing at this point.


AMEN!


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/0a03fd41-16a4-4496-839a-6d9b.jpg


Maybe at this point call VINTAGE for some tech advice. He rebuilt them. Did he describe any and all mods in the work order/receipt.
By Rudder2fly - Last Year
Good Luck. I have finally given up on triples w/553 Eldebrock. My last effort was to buy a new center 98Carb on Ebay. I guess made in China. Charlies end carbs by the way and I had problems there too. So I isolated the end carbs and the new carb was also a problem. My fuel pressure set at 2lbs, the motor would show signs of flooding on hot restart shut down 20 minutes. I could screw idle jets all the way closed and the motor would keep running. Today I am going to disassemble the center carb and see what I can find. If I get the motor to run correctly the 3X2 will be 2barrel only! By the way I have $1100.00 in this set up.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Just to clarify things a little bit. I did remove both outer carbs used a blocking plate with gaskets. The car ran absolutely fine with just the center carburetor! I've tried every solution everyone has suggested. I have the trips on it because I want to be able to use them. So I'm still scratching my head with this one...
By KULTULZ - Last Year
I did remove both outer carbs used a blocking plate with gaskets. The car ran absolutely fine with just the center carburetor! I've tried every solution everyone has suggested. I have the trips on it because I want to be able to use them. So I'm still scratching my head with this one.


Have you called VINTAGE and asked how he did the outboard plates as to whether they were sealed/closed or left a little open? It doesn't take much to create a lean condition. Remember, there is no idle circuits in the ends, supposedly.

By KULTULZ - Last Year
I did remove both outer carbs used a blocking plate with gaskets. The car ran absolutely fine with just the center carburetor! I've tried every solution everyone has suggested. I have the trips on it because I want to be able to use them. So I'm still scratching my head with this one.


Have you called VINTAGE and asked how he did the outboard plates as to whether they were sealed/closed or left a little open? It doesn't take much to create a lean condition. Remember, there is no idle circuits in the ends, supposedly.

By oldcarmark - Last Year
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a56f9fff-1b5d-402c-8f60-1920.jpgFlorida Phil had a similar Setup put together by Vintage Speed. As I recall he had Problems also.I think he had to go back to Vintage Speed for Assistance  If blocking off End Carbs and running only Center Carb gets it running good then there may be a problem with end Carbs.It may just be Case of loosening the Screws for the Plates and re-setting them and tighten Screws but I would check with VS first so He does not say U messed with them. As far as Vacuum Ports My 3 x 2 Intake has a Port at the End similar to "B" Manifolds.If required You may have to take Manifold off and drill and Tap. Your PCV needs to stay on Middle Port not rear Port if Added. I found a Fitting for rear Port from a T-Bird that has a Thread for a large Power Brake Hose Fitting and a smaller outlet that allows a  smaller vacuum line for Wiper Motor or Distributor Hookup. You could "T" those 2 together to that Type of Vacuum Outlet. Again the PCV and Brake Booster should be Separate Hookups. Pictures of my Offenhauser Manifold Setup I bought on Ebay. Project for next Winter. It has 2 Vacuum outlets. Does anyone know what the 2 Threaded Boss' are for. next to Vacuum Outlet at the back of Manifold?http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/37495280-ba56-4c46-b6f2-e826.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f716493e-f647-4eaf-861f-0db1.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c5cfc9fd-cec3-4328-8dee-6c3d.jpgt?
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Great replies every body!!!
By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
49Bomb. . . .  If the center carb works perfect all alone send Charlie back his 2 outer ones and get 2 more centers putting each one one in the center alone and see if everything runs right. Then add them to the outer mounts one at a time. I have no idea why everyone thinks you need non idle outers.

In the 60's when I started with 3 94's or 97's they were ALL the same. We idled on all of them and when we set the progressive linkage the outers squirted in fuel with no stumble. We set the outer floats a little lower so vibration would not cause flooding at idle, back then we were on them a lot more so it wwas not a problem too much. Were not talking a 348 Scrubby here with the correct Rochesters. I had a GMC 270  6 with a Howard log manifold with 5 carbs and idled on all 5.

I have dual quads and idle on both, it's a must. I only choke the rear one, but for starting but need to squirt both when the engine is stone cold. 

You can put a plate under the center with a hose fitting for your PCV and drill and tap the manifold anywhere for the Power Brakes I'd do it behind the rear carb or get a second plate. 1/2" aluminum are ez to find I think Speedway sell them and you can drill and tap them or drill a 3/8" hole and press in a steel piece of line with JB weld on it.

This is hotrodding and it ain't ever ez or cheap... You should price out 2 matched Carter small base WCFB's and and Edelbrock restored dual quads set up..Then you make the linkage...Good luck and don't give up...I have no idea what trips are...but I know 3-2's when I see them.

By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Trips..
By DryLakesRacer - Last Year
Yep 3-2's.. Rolleyes
By oldcarmark - Last Year
DryLakesRacer (8/12/2019)
49Bomb. . . .  If the center carb works perfect all alone send Charlie back his 2 outer ones and get 2 more centers putting each one one in the center alone and see if everything runs right. Then add them to the outer mounts one at a time. I have no idea why everyone thinks you need non idle outers.

In the 60's when I started with 3 94's or 97's they were ALL the same. We idled on all of them and when we set the progressive linkage the outers squirted in fuel with no stumble. We set the outer floats a little lower so vibration would not cause flooding at idle, back then we were on them a lot more so it wwas not a problem too much. Were not talking a 348 Scrubby here with the correct Rochesters. I had a GMC 270  6 with a Howard log manifold with 5 carbs and idled on all 5.

I have dual quads and idle on both, it's a must. I only choke the rear one, but for starting but need to squirt both when the engine is stone cold. 

You can put a plate under the center with a hose fitting for your PCV and drill and tap the manifold anywhere for the Power Brakes I'd do it behind the rear carb or get a second plate. 1/2" aluminum are ez to find I think Speedway sell them and you can drill and tap them or drill a 3/8" hole and press in a steel piece of line with JB weld on it.

This is hotrodding and it ain't ever ez or cheap... You should price out 2 matched Carter small base WCFB's and and Edelbrock restored dual quads set up..Then you make the linkage...Good luck and don't give up...I have no idea what trips are...but I know 3-2's when I see them.


"Trips"  short for "Triples" maybe? As in 3 Carburetors.
By Florida_Phil - Last Year
The issue I had with my triple Holley 94s was with the center carb.  It had an off idle stumble.  We could never find the exact problem, so Charlie replaced the carb for me and it worked perfectly after that. If your engine runs OK with the end carbs blocked off, your problem is in one or both of the end carbs. These carburetors are 60 years old. I suspect the circuits are blocked. Try to find which one is causing the problem and swap it out. Charlie has a mountain of them in his back yard.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
I know the problem is with the End carbs. But, Charlie reworked both of them at the throttle plates, are tightly closed. So there is nothing wrong with the center carburetor. So trying to figure out if it's vacuum leak or what.
By oldcarmark - Last Year
To check vacuum Leaks use an unlit Propane Torch or what we up North call "Quick Start". Basically Ether in a Spray can.If U notice an increase in RPM  thats usually a Leak sucking in Air.
By '49 bomb! - Last Year
Love your car's..
By oldcarmark - Last Year
Sold the Sedan when I bought Convertible. Wife wants to park in Garage in Winter. Not sure Why???
By Florida_Phil - Last Year
My Thunderbird is a "wife" compromise as well.  My wife wanted a convertible.  I wanted a 50s Y-Block hot rod.  Works for both of us.