The cartridge type filter is 10 micron and is installed back by the fuel tank (pump suction). I recently installed this and removed a small inline filter right before the pump suction. I had heard so much about fuel boiling and pump cavitation.

The dual quads are on a 292 Y block in a 1960 F-100 (The Frig), with 3 on the tree.




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Kevin,
I thought if the fuel is boiling inside the carb bowls it would be lean or starving for fuel.

Next time it stalls I'm going to pull off the road and look inside the carb throat and pull back on throttle cable and see if gas squirts out. If it does I'm probably flooding. If it doesn't I would think it's boiling off and causing vapor lock in carb bowl.

Thanks,

Joe



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Usually when fuel boils off in the bowl it is pushed out the vents in the air horn and drowns the engine with fuel.
When you get it restarted can you smell fuel or does it smoke from the exhaust until it clears the excess fuel and smooths out ?

Hey Joe D,

Any chance of seeing the engine right side? I would like to see how you plumbed fuel delivery. Do you have a filter on the pressure side?

____________________________

Thanks for the help Men!

I never have smelled gas like its flooding and no smoke or back firing when restarting.

Coolant temperature around 180 degrees and confirmed with a digital heat gun. I also tried insulating pressure side lines up to the carbs and still stalled. I do think its an inside carb issue.

I do not have a vacuum gage but my neighbor does! What would be the test with this?

I'll get a right side photo that shows hard piping going to carbs. I removed the brass screens on the catb inlets but this did not help either. Thanks again!





Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Having trouble ID ing these Carter 4 barrel carbs. No tags and markings around base that I can find. 
 



Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

"Having trouble ID ing these Carter 4 barrel carbs. No tags and markings around base that I can find"

Without the ASSEMBLY ID TAG(S), identification is going to be difficult as kits, parts and specs will vary between car makes.

.http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I'll attach an interpretation chart a little later.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/31/vacumm-reading-1-752x1024.png

By any chance, can you see any CASTING ID NOS. on the actual intake manifold? 

"Coolant temperature around 180 degrees and confirmed with a digital heat gun. I also tried insulating pressure side lines up to the carbs and still stalled. I do think its an inside carb issue."

Don't forget ethanol blended gasoline has a much lower boiling point. Shoot the thermometer at that braided fuel line after driving for a while. It is sitting in direct airflow from a hot radiator. Also try to get an engine compartment temp reading. Usually, fuel bowl percolation happens after shutdown and resultant engine heat soak, causing the fuel to boil out of the bowl vents. Much heat is also picked up @ the mechanical fuel pump as it is attached to the engine directly.



You do have a filter before the carbs?

Wish I would get my act together ...

The reason for the vacuum gauge is to insure the engine is tight. Some leaks manifest themselves once the engine is hot and things begin to expand.

____________________________

I’m not sure either of these will apply to you, but it’s my experience and involved stalling engines.

I had a fine Moroso fuel filter installed at the rear before the electric pump. New fuel tank, but I got a bad tank of gas. It would plug up while driving, then restart a minute later. I limped home and pulled it, it was full of very fine particles. I replaced it with an oem style filter and solved the problem. I was told the fine filter should have a coarser filter in front on the suction side, and then be pressurized. And the racers clean them between every run. You mentioned you just installed one.

I had a very similar hot/driving problem to yours on a car I move to a new location. Hot day, from sea level to 2600 ft., it loaded up and died. I thought to was vapor lock, but it restarted at full throttle. The local speed shop guys said “it’s the attitude change and the pressure regulator. Either put a gauge on it and reset the pressure, or try lowering the float level just a bit”. Since it was a Holley, I pulled the sight plugs and took it down I/2 turn on the external adjustment. Problem solved. When I can get it on a hoist and get to the regulator I’ll do it right. But this is a boost referenced blow thru supercharged motor. So it could be the increase in temp is affecting the pressure and that’s where the flooding is coming from. I don’t know.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ