MIT3
OK. You have 6 volt system. The cables are  the right size. The battery is big enough. The engine turns over ( not stuck) and IT WILL START
using the starter but ONLY WITH THE TIMING SET at 10 degrees ATDC.
YOUR SYSTEM IS CORRECT.  You have a timing issue. When hot there is more electrical resistance
AND MECHANICAL resistance From ENGINE parts expanding
With the "book timing set" the engine fires the sparkplug TOO SOON as the piston is compressing the fuel/air mixture
It could be in your distributor ( I am not familiar with Load O Matic a frozen plate that hold the points ?)  or the vacuum from the
carburetor to the Load O Matic?
I do not think your current problem is ELECTRICAL.  Good looking Truck  Good luck Pete

Hello In my 1955 Crown Victoria I use the 6 Volt Red Top Optima battery it is  800 cold Cranking Amps and 1000 Cranking Amps. I have the battery about 5 years, and have always had it on a battery tender. It cranks the engine fine. 

After a long time trying, i have actually a useable Crank speed. Changed cables to 00 (2/0), using a 112amps battery and the old starter.

But i have unfortunately still starting troubles at hot engine. I tried a little bit to turn the ignition. At 10° after the engine starts when hot. Its only for testing, it isnt driveable.
Could it be, that the coil loose power when its hot?
Coil is new, for 6 Volt, some liquide is in and i cant meassure some diffrent between hot or cold.

Hey guys i did not tyred to change at 12v. All is restored like original.
Next few Days i am out off Business. Next monday i will net sou know more. I will meassure the amps by starting.
My new battery have 98Ah with i Think 810A this means at -14C by starting 30 Sec. under using 810A the battery should not fall under 4,5 Volt. This starter should have may 1,4 kw also 240Amps at starting. I have to meassure the amps, but i Think my new Battery is crab.

My apologies, I thought MIT3 had a 12V conversion trying to run a 6V starter.


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

MIT3, you said the voltage dropped to 4 volts when cranking.  Did you measure this at the battery or the starter?  My Sun battery tester says that a 6 volt battery should maintain 5 volts at 3 times its Amphour rating.  Your battery should maintain 5 volts at almost 300 amps load.  If you read 4 volts at the starter and 5 volts at the battery, the battery is good and the cables/starter are the problem.  I noticed you have an F100.  If I remember correctly, the battery is under the passenger floorboard and the ground cable is bolted to the frame.  Do you have another large ground cable connected to the frame and the engine?  If not, that could be a problem.  If while cranking you maintain 4 volts at the battery, it is not up to snuff.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

MIT3 ...I think who ever rebuilt the your "new" starter used 12 volt parts.You seem to have done everything right so the only thing left is the "new" starter is not properly rebuilt. 

Mixing and matching 6V starters, 12V systems and sizing cables to be dropping resistors to limit current would make the book specs meaningless. I would think if you need to know the watt value, an induction amp meter as suggested above and an analog volt meter at the starter terminal while cranking should give the values to multiply for watts. I think typically a 12V starter is said to pull 155-190 amps while cranking in my 64 manual. For watts, would it be 12V X 190A? Or, I believe, it would it be 190A X the actual reduced cranking voltage at the starter. I guess if 6V starters are performing successfully in 12V systems using the smaller gauge 12V cables (as dripping resistors) then so be it. Indeed we learn something every day. Usually, using the cable to limit current will produce heat. Evidently it isn't much from what was posted above. That being said, why not simply use the proper 12V starter after converting the electrical system to 12V? That would eliminate all the fudging and guessing to make a 6V starter function properly by not drawing excessive current in a 12V system.   In that case,if you left the heavier 6V cables in place with the 12V starter, so much the better, less voltage drop and less heat.  I have in the past, started 6V cars with 12V and it cranked very fast but I think at the expense of higher ampere draw.  I have noticed quite a few Y-block starters on e-pay lately -  (not mine).      Just my $.02, JEFF.................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Today i found out, by restarting the hot engine, the starter Turns slowlier as at cold engine.

Somebody know how many Watt the original long shaft starter should have?

I’ll suggest using an induction amp gauge on the starter cable while trying to start the engine.  I suspect you’ll see a higher than required number indicating either a starter, connection, or cable sizing issue.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)