Sorry my late answer, this is the Time different to Europe.
No hot Cables or starter
The cable from Battery + to starter means to be clear of the starter Solid.
The engine is Running. By towing the car at 3 Gear the engine Starts rush
I Think the Force needed turning the engine by hand is ok. Nearly 60 nm with sparks.

Does it stay running after you pull start it? If a new rebuild you should run it at about 2000rpm for 20 minutes or so. Then shut it off and try the starter.




Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Yes it runs about half an hour with a breake in additive from Lucas.

This post brings up a question from me.  My 55 TBird was a 6 volt car from the factory.  It was switch over to 12 volts sometime in the past.  When I rebuilt my engine I had the starter and generator rebuilt by a local.  He knows what he is doing.  He told me my starter is 6 volt.  It worked perfectly in my car.  He told me my starter would work fine, but I  should use 12 volt cables to increase the voltage drop to the starter.  I never noticed any of the cables heating up and the 6 volt starter worked well. Anything I should be aware of?

Thats a good question Phil. I don't know what effect using the larger cables has. But I ran a 6V starter in a 12V system with the smaller 12V cables for years without any issue.

"He told me my starter is 6 volt.  It worked perfectly in my car.  He told me my starter would work fine, but I  should use 12 volt cables to increase the voltage drop to the starter."

... hmmpf ...

Now that is a good idea. Will prevent the 6V starter from drawing too much juice.

RELATED ARTICLE - https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/6to12.php

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I’ll suggest using an induction amp gauge on the starter cable while trying to start the engine.  I suspect you’ll see a higher than required number indicating either a starter, connection, or cable sizing issue.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Today i found out, by restarting the hot engine, the starter Turns slowlier as at cold engine.

Somebody know how many Watt the original long shaft starter should have?

Mixing and matching 6V starters, 12V systems and sizing cables to be dropping resistors to limit current would make the book specs meaningless. I would think if you need to know the watt value, an induction amp meter as suggested above and an analog volt meter at the starter terminal while cranking should give the values to multiply for watts. I think typically a 12V starter is said to pull 155-190 amps while cranking in my 64 manual. For watts, would it be 12V X 190A? Or, I believe, it would it be 190A X the actual reduced cranking voltage at the starter. I guess if 6V starters are performing successfully in 12V systems using the smaller gauge 12V cables (as dripping resistors) then so be it. Indeed we learn something every day. Usually, using the cable to limit current will produce heat. Evidently it isn't much from what was posted above. That being said, why not simply use the proper 12V starter after converting the electrical system to 12V? That would eliminate all the fudging and guessing to make a 6V starter function properly by not drawing excessive current in a 12V system.   In that case,if you left the heavier 6V cables in place with the 12V starter, so much the better, less voltage drop and less heat.  I have in the past, started 6V cars with 12V and it cranked very fast but I think at the expense of higher ampere draw.  I have noticed quite a few Y-block starters on e-pay lately -  (not mine).      Just my $.02, JEFF.................


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

MIT3 ...I think who ever rebuilt the your "new" starter used 12 volt parts.You seem to have done everything right so the only thing left is the "new" starter is not properly rebuilt.