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Dragster Engine

Posted By Cliff Last Year
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Cliff
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Finishing this up, Head porting and chamber by John, valve seats by me, piston domes by John, valve pockets by me, non posted heads, posts added through the rocker stand bolt holes (2 on each head), over 8 months of working on Saturdays to get this far. 
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Sweet


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Cliff
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More work done, 2.02 intake, 1.60 exhaust (manley proflow), Isky springs (intake 170 on the seat, exhaust 160), titanium retainers, steel keepers (super7), More to comehttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/fd7c1ca1-c35a-4e21-9d4a-d77f.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/ed508d5b-3ae1-4760-8859-d5a9.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/58916eae-85e7-4985-8143-9bda.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/bc7cb436-c4f6-4de3-a401-a8dd.jpg 



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Cliff.  I'm very interested in what you are doing on your engine modifications for the dragster project.  Some years ago in communicating with John, I understood him to indicated a preference for the small letter G heads for porting over the big letter G heads.  He did not share the Why of his statement.

I'm no experienced cylinder head porter.  My amateur view of the intake and exhaust ports made me state to John that the bowl area immediately under the intake valves looked better shaped for flow purposes on the little letter G heads.  Conversely, the exhaust ports on the little letter G heads as produced appeared to need more opening up than the large letter G heads did as produced when viewed from where the exhaust headers attach.

Your pictures of the cylinder head ports, the combustion chamber shaping, and the piston top shaping were excellent to view and interesting to reflect upon.
I hope you'll keep us informed about other modifications employed in your engine build.

Best Wishes and thanks for sharing!    Smile


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a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
Cliff
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The small letter heads have a better exhaust port (per John), John is the man for porting, I changed the valve seats for my own reasons (maybe for the worst) I also sunk the exhaust valve about .040 and changed some of the angles.

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Added post seen in water port

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ATI Super Damper installed (sbc 6"), honed to Ford crank snout size, spacer made from a Y Block marine spacer (shortened) John's timing cover (nice), cut the key way with a broach (did by eyeball), ended up being able to use the stock pointer (trimmed a little).

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Learned a lesson today, I bought Procomp head studs (they were cheap) thinking that if they went bad I would only loose a head gasket (used ARP for the bottom end), When torquing the heads I was looking for 85lbs on the top row and 75lbs on the bottom, however at 75 all's good, trying for 85 the nuts just kept turning after 2 full turns I stopped, never did torque 85lbs, so work stops until I get better studs. 

UPDATE the studs were good, I over torqued them, max with the lube I used is 63lbs 
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Cliff.  My recollection is that you started with a 292 block.  Interested to know:   
-  What bore and stroke combination did you end up choosing for your dragster engine build? 
-  Are you using a cast or forged crankshaft? 
-  What cylinder head combustion chamber volume did you end-up with after modifying the G head combustion chamber shape?
-  Did you zero deck the engine block?
-  With the modified piston domes you're using, what static compression ratio have you calculated having with the composite head gaskets you've selected?
-  Are you using forged pistons?
-  Are you planning to use carburetion or fuel injection?

Interested in what you're putting together, Cliff.  IF for competitive reasons these answers are not available for sharing, I understand.   Smile

Regards,
Charlie Brown


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