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1957 and up distributors

Posted By monarch 7 Years Ago
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oldcarmark
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Whats the complete Part # ?  I can check Parts Catalog and see what they fit.

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Tedster
Posted 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark (8/15/2018)
Whats the complete Part # ?  I can check Parts Catalog and see what they fit.




Well that's just it, I don't know the full part #, I wrote Bill Wilson but haven't heard back. B7A is a guess, but. I think the '57 cam might be correct judging from pics, but I've seen this movie before.
57RancheroJim
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Tedster (8/15/2018)
That's weird. There sure is a lot going on inside these things that need to be looked at!

Cheap distributor caps might be out of round in terms of the terminal ring, or made with old worn tooling and the dimensions aren't correct. I doubt that's your problem though.

I bought a Standard FD125 cap a while back and was rewarded with sparkles of brass glitter sprayed all over the inside. Same deal, rotor tip getting a little too chummy with the terminals. I think it turned out just that the rotor wasn't fully seated. The cap itself, if it is installed cockeyed will interfere with the coil secondary voltages because the rotor gap varies across different cylinders.
The cap is a NOS Standard with the brass terminals, wear was even so I doubt it's out of round. Just for fun measure the rotor height with and without the Pertronix ring on it.

Tedster
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57RancheroJim (8/15/2018)The cap is a NOS Standard with the brass terminals, wear was even so I doubt it's out of round. Just for fun measure the rotor height with and without the Pertronix ring on it.





I did notice the clearance is real close on that, but the rotor and ring don't touch on the Ignitor I have installed. That is something to check. A little excess end play and that would do it too.. Hm. How much did you take off .020" or so? Good tip!

KULTULZ
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Basic PN 12210 is the points actual cam. Do you need the cam or rotor (12200)?

If rotor, B7A 12200-A is the STD 1957/ .



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Tedster
Posted 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (8/15/2018)
Basic PN 12210 is the points actual cam.




Yes. This is a unicorn component these days I guess. What happens is the advance slots get banged up and worn excessively, and the centrifugal flyweight pins that ride in them also get grooved. Then the mechanical advance gets stuck, or erratic/sloppy. The '57 and later "should" work judging by some online pics but I don't want to order the wrong part. Thanks for your help.
57RancheroJim
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Tedster (8/15/2018)
57RancheroJim (8/15/2018)The cap is a NOS Standard with the brass terminals, wear was even so I doubt it's out of round. Just for fun measure the rotor height with and without the Pertronix ring on it.





I did notice the clearance is real close on that, but the rotor and ring don't touch on the Ignitor I have installed. That is something to check. A little excess end play and that would do it too.. Hm. How much did you take off .020" or so? Good tip!

I just sanded the bottom of the rotor a little at a time until it measured the same height as it would have been without the Pertronix wheel so that would have been close to .070. I had checked it with both my old Pertronix I wheel and the Pertronix II and they were the same, even same part # cast on the part. 

57RancheroJim
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Tedster (8/15/2018)
KULTULZ (8/15/2018)
Basic PN 12210 is the points actual cam.




Yes. This is a unicorn component these days I guess. What happens is the advance slots get banged up and worn excessively, and the centrifugal flyweight pins that ride in them also get grooved. Then the mechanical advance gets stuck, or erratic. The '57 and later "should" work judging by some online pics but I don't want to order the wrong part. Thanks for your help.
I bet they used the same one for years, I wouldn't be surprised if the SB 289/302 motors use it also..
The 57 were 26 degrees of advance and the later ones are 24, thats why I don't use the 57.. That was for the cars, don't know about the trucks, I have a 57 truck manual I can check if needed.

Tedster
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Yeah that's what I have now, it's marked 13L but it's pretty trashed. 24, 26 deg. at the crank, that doesn't matter too much does it? Just add in a little more or less initial timing?

The part they have, the full Ford # is B9AF-12210-A ; if it's the same as 289/302 it seems like it would be a commonly available part??

If I do a goolag search it just gets one hit at rearcounter.com and nobody has any. Images search just shows a bunch of houses. "Here's a picture of a bunny with a pancake on its head" basically.

Found a pic of what they are selling and it looks right. I mic'd the other old distributor shaft laying around and they seem to hold up pretty good. I believe with a new oilite bushing installed, some new weights &c etc. it will hold spec even when running points. The trick will be to sneak up on bushing height in the housing exactly the same. It sits a little proud of the base. Don't want to have to drill new holes in the shaft for the collar or gear, don't have a drill press.

Spent an hour looking for the other old distributor cam, and couldn't find it, though the special brass vacuum advance carburetor fitting DID turn up, so I got that going for me, which is nice.
57RancheroJim
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Ted,
It's just my personal choice, I like more initial timing, I use 12 + the 24 mechanical for a total of 36.
B9AF-12210-A That appears to be a 59 part number and would only have 24 degrees. Don't be surprised if later ones have a different number and still could be the same part, Ford was notorious for changing numbers..
I have never got this technical on a dist in the past, I miss the good old days when you just put in a new set of points, condenser, cap and rotor and drove it...


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