I went with the FE fuel pump and small Holley 4 barrel ( I think it was the 390). It runs great around town and on the highway, with no vapor lock. Drove it that way in the dry heat of Utah and humidity of SC.

It had an electric pump and the original dual mechanical when I got the car. The electric was right under the drivers door in the fuel line. It kept stalling while out on the drive. Apparently, the electric has to be right at the gas tank, best description is that they push better than pull. Someone told me they actually pull too good and create a void due to the line not keeping up with demand of the pump.

Also went with the Newport Engineering electric wiper motor, since the vacuum motor was just insufficient.

Sounds like I will be going with a Carter fuel pump. I decided to go electric instead of stock in order to...

1. Eliminate any delay that would be caused by the mechanical pump priming.

2. The factory mechanical fuel pump looks cool, but to find an original one with a glass bowl under $200 is a challenge. The $45 re pop mechanical fuel pump looks like doo doo.

I figured a healthy alternative would be to cap off the fuel pump at the motor and place a quality inline fuel pump along the frame rail.

Plus... I like electricity.

Has anyone put that Robb MC 12 volt starter on a 312 before?

"What a waste of thumbs opposable, to build machines disposable." - A.D.

The electric fuel pumps are not as reliable as the mechanical ones from my experience. Been stranded twice with the electrics but never from the mechanical ones.


-Gary Burnette-

I didn't see anywhere why you are changing from a mechanical fuel pump to electric. The mechanical is very reliable or at least has been for me. It also helps with the vacuum wipers unless you have replaced those too. The fuel line on mine is 5/16" which is adequate even for my 2 four barrels as long I don't stay on it too long. Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

You will probably need a pressure regulator as well adjusted for the pressure your carbs require. Also the electric pumps I am familier with push fuel rather then pull and need to be located near the gas tank.

  Vic Correnti

The fuel line size doesn't really matter.  Many electric pumps are available with npt threads, which make it easy to attach any line.  YOu will have to replace at least a portion of your existing fuel line, because no electric pump will directly replace the mechanical pump.

I have experience only with 2 brands of electric fuel pumps, Holley and Carter.  I had 2 Holleys that averaged about 1000 miles each.  I switched to Carter and that thing is still going strong after nearly 10000 miles.  This is real world, year round street use, from 100+ degree days in stop and go traffic in the summer to the teens and ice and snow in the winter.

Reliability issues aside, the Carter is more versatile, because you can place it up to something like 2 feet above the top of the fuel tank, read the instructions (Holley must be below).  And if you care about this sort of thing, at least at the time of purchase, my Carter is still Made in the USA.



Lawrenceville, GA

Just ordered a 12 volt Starter from RobbMC performance online. On its way. Now I am looking for some direction on an electronic fuel pump. Im assuming I have to find one with the matching size fittings as my current fuel lines to avoid having to replace all that. Unless you guys can offer up other suggestions that is the route I was going to go. What electronic fuel pumps are reliable? Does anyone know the fuel line size off hand? Im out of town and have some time to sit by the computer, so I'm trying to catch up on ordering parts to get this 312 fired up.



Thanks,



Zach

"What a waste of thumbs opposable, to build machines disposable." - A.D.

The square pads on virgin heads will measure 1 inch from top to bottom.

Lots of .030 over .060 over and more here. A little increase in compression, but not a lot. I don't know how to check the deck height (someone will). Bit there's a pad on the head that if mic'ed will tell you what's been milled. Someone will chime in with that, or you can run a search. There's also a lot of info on making sure the oil passages to the rocker arms are clear, and various mods for that. And the valve seals, etc. If the heads are off, nows the time to look it up and do what you'd like. Also, note the head gaskets go on with the square corners forward. Backwards causes cooling problems. There's a couple good y block books on Amazon, one new. Might pick one up.

"Shits and giggles". I remember that.


Any shop manual will give the torque order, or the Hot Rod Reverend has them on CD. Basically , center out, alternating left to right.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I got my felt pro full engine gasket set and decided to do the head gaskets just for shits and giggles. Seems that the motor has already been run through and has pistons that are .030 over. Has anyone dealt with 312s bored .030 over? Any significant increase in performance?

Also I have been looking online for the torque sequence on the head bolts. Does anyone have that on paper? Nice to finally make it through the holiday season and get back to late nights in the garage.

Zach.

"What a waste of thumbs opposable, to build machines disposable." - A.D.