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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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Good afternoon Gents,
I just picked up a 56 Mercury Custom from an old man who wanted it to go to a good home. From the casting marks on the block and exhaust manifold I've come to the conclusion that it is equipped with a 312. The motor is very dirty on the outside. There was oil in the pan, and supposedly it ran when he parked it 7 years ago. My plan is to flush everything with some cheap walmart oil, and do the necessary prep work in order to try and turn the crank over. I'm new to Y blocks and was looking for some more insight on the certain details that someone with more knowledge could offer to make this job run smoothly. This is my first project car, although I've been wrenching professionally for 5 years now. Most of my knowledge is built around suspension and fabrication so any help with trying to get this motor running will help greatly. If this post is on the wrong section of the forum, I will move it to the appropriate section. Thanks again.
-Zach-
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By Dobie - 10 Years Ago
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Welcome, Flamin'. You've come to the right place, this is the College of Y-block Knowledge. Your assumption about the Merc having a 312 is good unless it's been swapped for a 292. All '56 Mercs came with the 312. The sure way to tell is stroke measurement, 3.44" for a 312 vs 3.30" for a 292. Also, there is usually an aspirin sized dimple on a 312 crank flange, although there are some without it; a 292 crank will not have the dimple. Main caps will be marked "ECZ" for a 312; caps for a 292 are marked "EBU", or a 4 element ID beginning with a "C" for truck applications.
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By Lou - 10 Years Ago
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While your cleaning the engine up make sure you take apart and clean the road draft breather.
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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks Lou. I don't want to miss certain details like that. As of now I have the intake manifold and carb off. Do yall think it's necessary to pull the heads off for a more detailed cleaning or should I just flush it and hope for the best?
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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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All the Casting marks I have found are labeled ECZ-B.
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By Dobie - 10 Years Ago
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Flaminroosta (11/20/2015)
All the Casting marks I have found are labeled ECZ-B.
Heads and manifolds are interchangeable between 292 and 312 and will all have the same casting number depending on the year. The B intakes are about the best Ford made.
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By Oldmics - 10 Years Ago
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Sometimes when they set that long the valves stick . Easy enough since you already have the top end opened up to pull the valve covers and make sure that the valves will move.
Avoid bending some pushrods if the valves are sticking.
Welcome to Y Block world.
Oldmics
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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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The Main Caps read ECZ-6329-4
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By Larry D - 10 Years Ago
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That's a 312.
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By PF Arcand - 10 Years Ago
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One of the things to keep in mind about 312s is the torque spec's for the Main Caps. If you take them apart for any reason. do not over tighten the main cap bolts!!. Unfortunately, some early 1956 manuals printed spec's that were far too high, this could resultl in stripped bolts or worse, a cracked block! The 1957 manual states max 105lbs. To be safe, the Street Rodder series years ago,recommended max 90 lbs.
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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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The carburetor that came with the car is marked ECZ 9510 - H.
The "H" stands for Holly to my knowledge. When I look up the casting number ECZ 9510 for a rebuild kit, it brings me to the Holly 4000, and all components don't look like they will match up with the carburetor I have. Does anyone know what carburetor came stock with the 312? I don't want to order the wrong rebuild kit.
Yall have a good Sunday.
Zach
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By Ted - 10 Years Ago
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While that ‘H’ at the end of the part number is a logical assumption, it does not indicate ‘Holley’. The ECZ-9510-H carburetor is indeed a Holley model 4000 four barrel and was original equipment on the 1956 Ford and Mercury 312 engines. The Holley list number for that particular carb (located on the back flange) is also expected to read 1161-1A. Other Holley model 4V carbs listed for the 1956 Merc 312’s includes the ECZ-A, ECZ-B, ECZ-G, ECZ-M, and ECZ-Q. If the list number 1161 and the part number ECZ-H both match what you have, then get a kit for a Holley model 4000 4V.
Here’s a picture of the List #1161 Teapots.
Some of the 1956 Mercury engines also came equipped with a Carter WCFB carburetor. Here’s the link to a previous thread giving some information on the 1956 WCFB carb. See if the pictures of the carb within that past post more closely match what you have. If so, then use carburetor part number ECZ-9510-F when ordering a carb kit.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost116555.aspx
Here’s a picture of the 1956 Carter WCFB carbs.
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By Flaminroosta - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted. The carburetor is definitely the teapot/firebox. I'll order the kit for the Holly 4000 4V.
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By Flaminroosta - 9 Years Ago
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I got my felt pro full engine gasket set and decided to do the head gaskets just for shits and giggles. Seems that the motor has already been run through and has pistons that are .030 over. Has anyone dealt with 312s bored .030 over? Any significant increase in performance?
Also I have been looking online for the torque sequence on the head bolts. Does anyone have that on paper? Nice to finally make it through the holiday season and get back to late nights in the garage.
Zach. 
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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Lots of .030 over .060 over and more here. A little increase in compression, but not a lot. I don't know how to check the deck height (someone will). Bit there's a pad on the head that if mic'ed will tell you what's been milled. Someone will chime in with that, or you can run a search. There's also a lot of info on making sure the oil passages to the rocker arms are clear, and various mods for that. And the valve seals, etc. If the heads are off, nows the time to look it up and do what you'd like. Also, note the head gaskets go on with the square corners forward. Backwards causes cooling problems. There's a couple good y block books on Amazon, one new. Might pick one up.
"Shits and giggles". I remember that.
Any shop manual will give the torque order, or the Hot Rod Reverend has them on CD. Basically , center out, alternating left to right.
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By Dobie - 9 Years Ago
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The square pads on virgin heads will measure 1 inch from top to bottom.
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By Flaminroosta - 9 Years Ago
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Just ordered a 12 volt Starter from RobbMC performance online. On its way. Now I am looking for some direction on an electronic fuel pump. Im assuming I have to find one with the matching size fittings as my current fuel lines to avoid having to replace all that. Unless you guys can offer up other suggestions that is the route I was going to go. What electronic fuel pumps are reliable? Does anyone know the fuel line size off hand? Im out of town and have some time to sit by the computer, so I'm trying to catch up on ordering parts to get this 312 fired up.
Thanks,
Zach
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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The fuel line size doesn't really matter. Many electric pumps are available with npt threads, which make it easy to attach any line. YOu will have to replace at least a portion of your existing fuel line, because no electric pump will directly replace the mechanical pump.
I have experience only with 2 brands of electric fuel pumps, Holley and Carter. I had 2 Holleys that averaged about 1000 miles each. I switched to Carter and that thing is still going strong after nearly 10000 miles. This is real world, year round street use, from 100+ degree days in stop and go traffic in the summer to the teens and ice and snow in the winter.
Reliability issues aside, the Carter is more versatile, because you can place it up to something like 2 feet above the top of the fuel tank, read the instructions (Holley must be below). And if you care about this sort of thing, at least at the time of purchase, my Carter is still Made in the USA.
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By Vic Correnti - 9 Years Ago
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You will probably need a pressure regulator as well adjusted for the pressure your carbs require. Also the electric pumps I am familier with push fuel rather then pull and need to be located near the gas tank.
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By DryLakesRacer - 9 Years Ago
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I didn't see anywhere why you are changing from a mechanical fuel pump to electric. The mechanical is very reliable or at least has been for me. It also helps with the vacuum wipers unless you have replaced those too. The fuel line on mine is 5/16" which is adequate even for my 2 four barrels as long I don't stay on it too long. Good Luck
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By speedpro56 - 9 Years Ago
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The electric fuel pumps are not as reliable as the mechanical ones from my experience. Been stranded twice with the electrics but never from the mechanical ones.
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By Flaminroosta - 9 Years Ago
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Sounds like I will be going with a Carter fuel pump. I decided to go electric instead of stock in order to...
1. Eliminate any delay that would be caused by the mechanical pump priming.
2. The factory mechanical fuel pump looks cool, but to find an original one with a glass bowl under $200 is a challenge. The $45 re pop mechanical fuel pump looks like doo doo.
I figured a healthy alternative would be to cap off the fuel pump at the motor and place a quality inline fuel pump along the frame rail.
Plus... I like electricity.
Has anyone put that Robb MC 12 volt starter on a 312 before?
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By Chemist64 - 9 Years Ago
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I went with the FE fuel pump and small Holley 4 barrel ( I think it was the 390). It runs great around town and on the highway, with no vapor lock. Drove it that way in the dry heat of Utah and humidity of SC.
It had an electric pump and the original dual mechanical when I got the car. The electric was right under the drivers door in the fuel line. It kept stalling while out on the drive. Apparently, the electric has to be right at the gas tank, best description is that they push better than pull. Someone told me they actually pull too good and create a void due to the line not keeping up with demand of the pump.
Also went with the Newport Engineering electric wiper motor, since the vacuum motor was just insufficient.
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