Fortunate that your car is 6 volts, as all 12 volt solenoids don't have that feature

I actually don't have a remote start switch, but what I do have is interesting. I actually ordered a reproduction solenoid for my 55 off Concours a while back when I suspected the solenoid of being bad on the car. Lol I ended up breaking the new solenoid by over-tightening the bolt connectors and cracking the case.


The cool thing was that I found out that solenoid has a push-button crank button on the bottom which manually forces a connection in the solenoid while the button is depressed. It no longer works as a solenoid but it works for that.

The remote starter switch is a pretty common tool.  Mine is a Craftsman from about 15 years ago. You could make it with some wire, alligator clips, and a momentary switch.

Tim uses a remote starter switch in the video linked at the very beginning of this thread.



Lawrenceville, GA

Alright I did the 90 degree technique tonight, when I was doing it it didn't feel like I was making that big of an adjustment from what I'd made with the feeler gauge, and with some of them I think that's true. But when she ran man, I could hear the difference! You can still hear some clicking, but I think it's the normal amount for the Y-block. The idle is smoother, and it is much quiter. Thanks a lot for the advice guys. Now if I can just stop the engine from running so hot I'll be in business.

Thanks Charlie. Did you make your own remote starter switch?

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I use a remote starter switch and adjust each cylinder when it's at tdc on compression (both valves closed).  It really helps if you mark the damper every 90 degrees.  The lifter is on the base circle for quite a while, so there is a large window of opportunity to adjust it at the right spot.  Bumping the starter should be accurate enough.  If it is slightly ahead or behind the 90 degree marking, it will be ok.



Lawrenceville, GA

With any of these methods, turning the motor over to get to the correct valve positions gives me the most trouble. If you leave the battery connected and tap the ignition, you often go past the point you need to set the lash. Turning the crank by hand is a problem for me because I have an electric puller fan which prevents me from reaching the crank dampner bolt from the top, so it's more of a 2 person job; one to turn the crank from underneath the car, and then a spotter for the valve position. Anyone have any suggestions?
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Here’s the link to a previous thread that goes into several different methods in which to adjust the valve lash.  All are equally effective and you simply pick the one that works best for you.  While I tend to like the firing order method myself, the Exhaust Open, Intake Closing method works well and especially where the firing order isn't easily accessable.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic8614.aspx 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

When Exhaust starts to open simply adjust Intake.
When Intake starts to close adjust Exhaust.
Has worked for me every time without fail.


-Gary Burnette-

What is so tough about counting to eight? Both valves on each cylinder will be closed with this method. The firing order is cast into the top of the intake manifold in case you forget.